MikeW

I used the kit and was happy with the results. The kit contains more than just POR15 paint; it also includes something they call "power mesh" which is basically a fiberglass mesh material as well as some epoxy putty. When the mesh is saturated with the POR15 paint it becomes quite strong. I wouldn't use this on a floor that is very porous but in my case there was actually plenty of metal and just a few small holes and cracks that were rusted through.

Google is your friend. Note that all 38 hits for the exact phrase "raw silicone oil" say basically the same thing. This either means that it's bad stuff or people are simply repeating the claims of others. I make no judgment call myself as I have no experience with these products. http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=mozclient&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&q=%22raw+silicone+oil%22

While I agree in principle there are other things to consider. For instance, if you have passengers, especially small children, it is your responsibility as a driver to help protect those passengers. In the event of an emergency situation you're more likely to keep the vehicle in control if you are securely fastened in the car. In the event of an accident you're more likely to be able to help extract and treat others if you yourself are not injured or unconscious. Since I have a small child I really hate to think of a child being properly and safely secured in a restraint seat and otherwise uninjured while the unsecured driver is ejected or knocked out and the car on fire or in water.

Exactly. I've actually seen motorcyclists stop at the border between states just to take of their helmet.

And here they are. I had to reduce them all to 1024x768 and rotate one of them a bit.

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techcenter/articles/43847/article.html

I think it's kind of funny that the most recent feedback is from someone who said they'd been charged twice and still hadn't received the shipment. Why would you leave positive feedback like that?

Have a look at the most recent eBay feedback: http://feedback.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws1/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=midwest_z&item=-1&frompage=222 Strangely enough there has been plenty of positive feedback in the months since Chloe disappeared but I supposed it could be from people who waited a long time to provide it.

Feel free to e-mail them to me at my gmail account: mlwilliams@gmail.com I'll convert them to JPEG and post them here.

I always thought that white smoke was caused by coolant leaking into the combustion chamber whereas blue smoke is caused by oil.

Flat top pistons are the default for an L24.

Have a look at this engine calculator. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292&highlight=L6 If your 72 has the stock E88 head the calculator shows 8.76:1 The Factory service manual for my 1972 shows 8.8:1 and a PSI between 171 and 185.

This is how it works on my Nissan 240SX. However, since it also has pop up headlights it's not as useful for flashing someone who's swerving into your lane since there's a slight time lag for the headlights to come up.

Yes, I remember that discussion. Doesn't it seem strange that they'd just leave the choke symbol that's beneath what would have been the choke warning light?

If you just want to do away with the points you might consider using a Pertronix Ignitor. Search the forums here for "Pertronix" for plenty of information including detailed installation instructions with pictures.

I'd say the compression ratio could be determined from the pressure but only theoretically. Besides having the barometric pressure vary according to weather and altitude, the biggest problem would be the condition of the engine itself. How could you tell the difference between a low compression ratio and an engine with a high compression ratio with pressure leaking past the rings or valves?

Enrique, That picture clearly shows that the panel was modified from the original as you'll notice that the center switches have a label added whereas the right switches still show the choke warning symbol. I'd be surprised if that change was made at the factory but I suspect Alan will fill us in. Here's what my panel looks like:

You might want to post some pictures but from your description it sounds like it's been heavily customized. It most certainly did not leave the factory like that. I would be very wary of such a car.

Found using Google's image search ...

I don't know where the switch should go as I don't think I have an unused molded area. I assume that it would be somewhere around the hazard switch or lighter but I don't really see a spot there.

My understanding is that all cars have the fog light wiring in the harness but taped off. There are also holes drilled in the bottom of the front bumper for the fog lights. http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm#lights

My understanding is that these were dealer-installed options, not from the factory.

The seats appear to be the factory vinyl, not leather as indicated. Also, I don't understand why a car with such low miles would have had the engine bay painted black at some point.

I'm fairly certain that those gentleman were long gone from Nissan when this program was conceived. If they were involved to any degree I suspect they would have simply been paid to make appearances but not to criticize the program. My understanding is that the whole purpose behind the program was to fill the void left by the departure of the 300ZX (Z32) from the U.S. market after the 1996 model year. That particular car continued to be sold elsewhere in the world so it makes sense that the restoration program was specific to the U.S. As Alan and others have repeatedly pointed out it is misleading to use the word "factory" in the title. I can't find any references where Nissan actually used the word but others certainly have. Here's a link to the aforementioned checklist in Adobe PDF format. http://jasonjarvis.com/240ZRestorationprogram.pdf

Keep in mind that there was plenty of overlap between so-called model years. My very early '72 has plastic headlight buckets and vertical defroster lines and was actually made before some late '71 models. I wouldn't let the steering wheel and hatch vents influence you're take on the car. Most '71 models did not have those features but there's a good chance that an early '71 would.