MikeW

I think they're simply admitting that the market value for such a car has gone down. I would agree with that assessment.

Obviously any kind of sandpaper will scratch the surface; that's the whole point. However, super fine grades of paper make very small scratches which may be enough to remove the bigger scratches that cause the "fogged" look. On the other hand, there are commercially available plastic polishes that I would try before sandpaper such as those available from Mothers or Blue Magic. As far as the chrome goes, mine were so far gone that the pits went all the way through the chrome and into the white plastic beneath. I would think this would be difficult to repair. Since I bought a used replacement on eBay I might see what can be one to fix my old lens since I don't have to worry about damaging it. I may try the metal tape technique that I successfully used on the interior door panel.

Interesting ... I don't have one of those. I'll have to take a close look and see if there are any empty screw holes.

The easiest way is to jack the car up a bit which gives you more room between the tire and the wheel arch. It's still a tight fit but you can do it with a bit of patience.

Well, it's already at $2000 with 5 bids.

They're different. The 240Z uses a single strut on the left side. MSA lists this at $107.55. They list the right strut for a 74-78 at $115.82 and the left strut as being unavailable.

http://atomfilms.shockwave.com/af/content/this_land_af

I find that a good place to estimate weights like this is the MSA catalog. While they don't seem to sell just a crankshaft they do sell a complete kit with a stroker crankshaft, pistons, connecting rods, etc. that they list at 70 pounds shipping weight (and a mere $1799): http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PEM05

It's true that the center section is no longer available but that damage doesn't look too bad. When I got my bumpers straightened and rechromed they had to do a bit of work on them. I suspect yours can be fixed as well.

That's how mine works as well. I believe it's as-designed - as you say, to keep you from locking your keys in the car.

Thanks, good job.

Using the web I got the same information from a WhoIs search of her domain. I then mapped it using MapQuest and then found that location in an aerial photograph on Microsoft's TerraServer. It appears as though this business location might actually be her home so she may not be accustomed to unexpected visitors. http://terraserver.microsoft.com/image.aspx?t=1&s=10&x=3292&y=20860&z=14&w=1

Yes, the hole behind the pillar emblems was the replacement for the vent hatches on the early models. I suppose Datsun found out early on about the negative pressure behind the car attempting to draw exhaust back in.

farrisl http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13929&highlight=kansas

Are you getting spark to the non-firing plugs? If so, what do the plugs look like? Are they fouled with oil or fuel?

You just pull the whole thing out. It's very easy as there are no fasteners. It just pops into place.

Looks like 79mm. Here's a nice engine calculator that should help you out: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292&highlight=L6

Changing the rod length would not change the displacement. All it would do would move the piston closer to or farther from the cylinder head but the piston travel is determined only by the crankshaft. Of course, you wouldn't want to move the pistons closer as they already come to the top of the block. Shortening the rods would indeed decrease compression.

I don't see how changing the rods alone could affect the length of the stroke.

Depends on what you mean by modification. Increasing the stroke requires a new crankshaft. This is what Nissan did to go from the L24 to the L26. You may have seen people talking about using the crankshaft from a diesel Maxima for this purpose. The only thing that will increase the bore is literally over-boring the cylinders and fitting larger pistons. This what what Nissan did to go from the L26 to the L28.

Mine took close to six weeks with one person basically working on it full time and another helping occasionally. The vast majority of the work is the preparation: repairing rust, getting everything straight, etc. Then there's a lot of priming and sanding and sealing. The actual paint job took less than a day.

It was definitely a GS30 RHD Japanese Domestic Market Fairlady Z 2+2 that originally came with an L20 engine which had unfortunately been replaced with a fuel injected L28.

Yes, it looked like that. I think it was adjustable but there was enough rust on this particular car that I didn't want to pull too hard on it.

Normally you just drill the proper sized hole and run the tap in. You use a cutting fluid which keeps things lubricated. There's usually some sort of handle to turn it with, however.

There was a guy at today's Georgia Z Car meeting with a (1976, I think) JDM Fairlady Z 2+2. The passenger side had a footrest bar that appeared to adjust not unlike what you might see on a bus. Was this a factory option? I've never heard of this.