MikeW

Are you keeping your top end? Just an L24 block, even if it needs new rings, etc., should be dirt cheap. If you want to drop in a complete working engine then figure closer to $2000.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35009

I've always thought it's kind of funny getting oil endorsements from racers. At first glance you think "wow, they clearly use the best". You then realize that their engines are designed to last 500 miles before replacing them with a new engine for the next big race.

I wonder how much extra weight a 454 adds? I know a SBC isn't that much heavier than an L series. Also, I don't like the fabricated hood. He could have just cut a big hole and reinforced the stock hood.

You're right. I thought the change was sooner than that. I'm HLS30-47431 which is fairly close to the start of the run.

I wouldn't call the rear window rare. Rare is the earliest cars with no defroster lines. The vertical lines were used up until the 1972 model year although my 9/71-built '72 has the vertical lines.

Perhaps but I know it's one of those items that people have been looking for over the years. I remember adding one to my car back when I bought it in the mid 80's. Clearly you want one enough to go to the trouble that you've gone through and I thank you for that. My point was that if for some reason we couldn't get enough to do the full 100 it might make sense for someone to go ahead and buy enough to ensure the 100 and sell the extras on eBay.

For $3000-$3500 someone could buy 100 and sell them for more on eBay.

I like where rubbing tires broke off half of the side Datsun emblem. Good luck and have fun getting your old car back on the road. You will likely end up cursing the previous (current) owner.

Sometimes they do come right out like the manual says. One of mine did. The other wouldn't even come out with a shop press. I replaced mine with new pins in any case so if you think you can get them out with a hammer then go for it. The ends will mushroom on you and if they get too big then you'll have trouble. Not to be insulting but you did remove the center lock pins, right?

Mine arrived today and looks awesome. Hopefully it won't take long to get yours in Australia.

I would try to isolate the problem some more. You say it only happens on deceleration. Is it when you take your foot off the gas, manually downshift, or brake? Is it a single loud clunk or a continuous sound? Can you reproduce it in each forward gear?

Here's one option: http://www.courtesyparts.com/1970-1973-240z-air-conditioning-kit-r134-freon-p-228048.html?cPath=7724_7747&

That's awesome. I'm ashamed to admit that I haven't started mine in several months. We all anxiously await your findings.

Halfords (online anyhow) at least carry NGK brand spark plugs which seem to be the favourite amongst enthusiasts. The proper number is BP6ES. I don't see that particular number on their site but the numbers may be different in the UK. However, I suspect that new plugs will be a minor concern compared to everything else you'll need to look at. Edit: it looks like they might be also called number 807 but I only see them in 4 packs. You obviously will want at least 6.

Very nice. I hope to see you at the Mitty; fortunately for me it's only a 60 mile drive.

To add to Alan's paint advice: unless a very thorough repaint was done sometime in the past it will be easy to find original paint: up under the dash, in the spare tire well, under the console, behind the door panels, etc. There's a good chance that your paint is original so that will be further reason to keep it the same color when you paint it yourself eventually.

That's what I use and always suggest when this topic comes up. It comes in the perfect container and is readily available. http://www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil/

From the few pics it looks fairly complete and straight. Rust is always the big issue. There have been plenty of threads here regarding resurrecting cars that have been idle for years so you'd do well to read those for tips on safely getting it running again.

I've never seen Randy post here. Here's a picture I took in his garage a while back before he started selling off cars. In this part of the garage are 9 immaculate 240Z's, 4 of which were VZ program cars.

#13 hereROFL

Welcome! Convertible? Post pictures when you can.

First google hit for motor oil zinc content seems good: http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

I don't know what's involved with the upgraded booster but the standard booster is very easy to replace.

Definitely the booster. The reason you're not in the hospital is that you didn't have to brake really hard in your normal driving. The brakes still work; the vacuum-powered booster just helps you push the pedal with more force. If it's a slow leak and not a total failure it's possible that you're still getting some assist but not full assist. Think of power brakes like power steering. Our cars don't have power steering which you don't really notice in normal highway driving but you do notice pulling into or out of a parking spot. If you've ever had power steering fail on you in a car that really needs power steering you'll know how hard it can be to steer.