MikeW

I take it you've found doors but the wrong color? Painting is not an option? Have you tried these guys? They seem to have a lot of parts: http://www.zbarn.com/other%20Web%20stuff/Catalog%20Pages/Z%20used%20body.htm

I was wondering about that car myself. I'm always a bit skeptical when someone lists an early Z car as having "no rust". My '72 certainly has holes in the steering wheel. I believe only '70 models didn't.

I'm no electrical expert but a blown fuse is an indication that there's a short circuit somewhere. Electricity normally flows from the battery to through the fuse to the light and finally to ground. Since the light has a lot of resistance not a whole lot of current flows and therefore the fuse doesn't blow. If, on the other hand, if the electricity is somehow getting to ground before the light there's almost no resistance, too much current flows, and the fuse blows. This is what the fuse is supposed to do in this situation. To verify it you'll need to pull the fuse (or leave in the blown fuse) and using an ohm meter see if there's resistance between a known ground and the hot side of the lamp. Normally this would be open. If you get a reading you've got a ground somewhere in between. Testing with the switch on or off should tell you which side of the switch the ground is on.

Right click on the image, select "save picture as", and note the file name.

http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html

Your water pump may have failed.

As I recall the small nut is 14mm and the large is 17mm. What sizes did you try? I don't recall that the threads are reversed so loosening should be in the normal direction. If I'm wrong, well, try the other direction.

Interesting. I figured the "professional" quartz upgrade wouldn't use a AA battery. I bought a cheap mechanism at a crafts store for about $5. I think just about every battery-powered wall clock you buy these days uses this same mechanism. I was planning on figuring out how to use a transformer to run it off of the regular 12V clock circuit. The only tricky part will be to get the regular Z clock push-and-twist clock adjustment hooked up. I may even be able to have a seconds hand.

Name another sport where the number one guy in the world is twice as good yet half the size as the number two guy. Warning: don't read this on a full stomach or if you get queasy easily: http://espn.go.com/page2/s/rovell/020704.html

I'm in the middle of stuffing a cheap AA powered quartz clock into mine since cleaning and lightly oiling the original gears didn't get me anywhere. By the time I'm done fabricating the hands and mounting it securely I would have probably been better off with the $86 here: http://members.aol.com/zclock4u/wp.html

Both appear to simply be Japanese home market cars that were later exported. Neither seems unusual although the second is a very early model.

I believe my spindle pins came from VB recently. I think they're about $25 each.

This reminds me of an old joke; I can't remember if it was ever posted here. A guy walks to his car in a parking lot and notices it's been smashed in. Luckily there's a note on the windshield which reads: "All of these people standing around watching think I'm leaving you my name, phone number, and insurance info. Actually, I'm not."

Once you manage to wipe it out you need to take steps to prevent it from happening in the first place. I use a great freeware program called Proxomitron. It's a proxy server that runs on your machine and sits in between your browser and the internet. It can kill popup windows by not even allowing them to be created as opposed to trying to kill them after the fact. It can kill all ads within web pages by replacing the big "click me" graphic with a text hyperlink so you can get to the ad if you want to. This alone makes it worthwhile because it speeds up your internet connection; it's not bothering to download the ad image. The bad news is that I just tried to go to their web page and it appears to have been hacked. There are similar programs out there but I'm not familiar with any. I've used Proxomitron for years on all of my machines. It does appear to be available from here: http://www.spamblocked.com/proxomitron/

While I've never used it a lot of people seem to swear by SEM products: http://www.semproducts.com/

I think your question is a bit vague. Are you talking about on the street or on the track in a race where cars of a similar class compete together? Are you talking about a stock 240Z against a stock 911 from the same year? Let's put it this way: Any Z ever made, even a 280ZX, will beat the original Porsche 356 from 1948 (1.1 liters, 40hp, top speed 85mph). If you want to compare equal model years then it would be safe to say that a 2003 350Z (156mph) could probably take a 2003 Cayenne (150mph). If you want to compare cars from the early to mid seventies I'm afraid to say that the Porsche 917/30 Can-Am set the world closed course speed record of 221mph in 1975 that held for over 10 years. It did of course weigh about 500 pounds less than a 240Z and have almost 1500hp. People racing Z cars have certainly beat people racing Porsches. The 240Z can hold its own against a similarly equipped 911. The statment that a "Porsche will CONSTANTLY waste a Z" sounds like an adolescent statement similar to arguing about who's the better athlete. Let your buddies win the argument; they probably don't own Porsches anyhow.

Your unisyn "wheel" is closed all the way and the marker still doesn't float?

Yes. I'm basing this answer on the VB catalog where they list replacement fenders as the same part# for 1970-1978.

I did mine as well but by hand. I basically followed these instructions: http://www.georgiazclub.com/tips/ztech/coverpolish.htm The first key is to not go too easy in the beginning. Use the coarsest grade of paper needed to get to the bottom of the worst defect. The second key is to make sure you don't try to jump grades. Sure, you'll eventually get out all of the marks from the previous grade but it will take longer. As I recall I went in the following order: 80 100 150 220 320 400 600 1000 1500 various metal polishes Also, I found that working with wet paper works best (you can get coarse paper that can be used wet) as well as some of the newer sanding sponges and soft sanding blocks from 3M. Those are especially helpful on the curved surfaces.

What holds them in place? Is is just a force fit? There's a smaller rubber piece on the inside of the bumper that protects the body from the bumper ends where they're attached but the bolt goes through those.

No. The 240 and early 260's have front turn signals below the bumper on each corner. The later models have solid lower corners with the turn signals in the grill area. I'm not sure about the center section.

I'm not sure but I suspect the correct mixture results it's a blue flame similar to to what you'd see on a natural gas stovetop. Sometimes with those you'll see mostly blue flame with wisps of yellow/orange. If you can differentiate between those you'll probably be Ok with the colortune.

I'm thinking about getting one myself. Surely you'd have to use at least two plugs, one from the front 3 and one from the back 3. If you did all 6 and there was a difference between, say, #1 and #2 I don't see how you could adjust that apart from modifying the intake manifold. However, all cylinders sharing the same carb should have the same mixture.

I'm actually interested in getting new A/C for my car. I've looked at the MSA kit and have also noticed this one at a lower cost: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=240Z-AC Anyone know what the differences are? Is it the same kit?

MSA offers both press-on an screw on center caps with "Z" logos. I need to get a set myself and have been meaning to call them.