MikeW

I wouldn't spray WD40 in a lock. If anything you need to use graphite powder to lubricate locks.

Uhh, I hope it wasn't too much work - that's his car.

According to the Victoria British catalog (not sure if it's accurate), 78's started in 8/77 with HLS30-4200001. As others have pointed out, model years are more of an American thing and there wasn't always a precise switchover.

What's the VIN? Aug/Sep was typically the transition date between US model years so it's likely that you do have a very early 78.

That seems like a huge gap. For an $8k difference you could make a good living buying one such car a month, transporting it east, and selling it.

This makes sense since the main labor is loading the car in a shipping container and hauling it to a dock. A car in LA doesn't have far to go to get to a port like Long Beach. Transporting a car within the US would generally involve paying someone to drive a transport vehicle and probably include the cost of their return trip.

Duh. I must have missed the "panel" part. How about here: http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html

Hmm. I test drove a G35 coupe 6-speed a while back and was very gentle with it. If I ever decide to buy either I better ask for one with 0.0 miles on the odometer.

I take it you've found doors but the wrong color? Painting is not an option? Have you tried these guys? They seem to have a lot of parts: http://www.zbarn.com/other%20Web%20stuff/Catalog%20Pages/Z%20used%20body.htm

I was wondering about that car myself. I'm always a bit skeptical when someone lists an early Z car as having "no rust". My '72 certainly has holes in the steering wheel. I believe only '70 models didn't.

I'm no electrical expert but a blown fuse is an indication that there's a short circuit somewhere. Electricity normally flows from the battery to through the fuse to the light and finally to ground. Since the light has a lot of resistance not a whole lot of current flows and therefore the fuse doesn't blow. If, on the other hand, if the electricity is somehow getting to ground before the light there's almost no resistance, too much current flows, and the fuse blows. This is what the fuse is supposed to do in this situation. To verify it you'll need to pull the fuse (or leave in the blown fuse) and using an ohm meter see if there's resistance between a known ground and the hot side of the lamp. Normally this would be open. If you get a reading you've got a ground somewhere in between. Testing with the switch on or off should tell you which side of the switch the ground is on.

Right click on the image, select "save picture as", and note the file name.

http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html

Your water pump may have failed.

As I recall the small nut is 14mm and the large is 17mm. What sizes did you try? I don't recall that the threads are reversed so loosening should be in the normal direction. If I'm wrong, well, try the other direction.

Interesting. I figured the "professional" quartz upgrade wouldn't use a AA battery. I bought a cheap mechanism at a crafts store for about $5. I think just about every battery-powered wall clock you buy these days uses this same mechanism. I was planning on figuring out how to use a transformer to run it off of the regular 12V clock circuit. The only tricky part will be to get the regular Z clock push-and-twist clock adjustment hooked up. I may even be able to have a seconds hand.

Name another sport where the number one guy in the world is twice as good yet half the size as the number two guy. Warning: don't read this on a full stomach or if you get queasy easily: http://espn.go.com/page2/s/rovell/020704.html

I'm in the middle of stuffing a cheap AA powered quartz clock into mine since cleaning and lightly oiling the original gears didn't get me anywhere. By the time I'm done fabricating the hands and mounting it securely I would have probably been better off with the $86 here: http://members.aol.com/zclock4u/wp.html

Both appear to simply be Japanese home market cars that were later exported. Neither seems unusual although the second is a very early model.

I believe my spindle pins came from VB recently. I think they're about $25 each.

This reminds me of an old joke; I can't remember if it was ever posted here. A guy walks to his car in a parking lot and notices it's been smashed in. Luckily there's a note on the windshield which reads: "All of these people standing around watching think I'm leaving you my name, phone number, and insurance info. Actually, I'm not."

Once you manage to wipe it out you need to take steps to prevent it from happening in the first place. I use a great freeware program called Proxomitron. It's a proxy server that runs on your machine and sits in between your browser and the internet. It can kill popup windows by not even allowing them to be created as opposed to trying to kill them after the fact. It can kill all ads within web pages by replacing the big "click me" graphic with a text hyperlink so you can get to the ad if you want to. This alone makes it worthwhile because it speeds up your internet connection; it's not bothering to download the ad image. The bad news is that I just tried to go to their web page and it appears to have been hacked. There are similar programs out there but I'm not familiar with any. I've used Proxomitron for years on all of my machines. It does appear to be available from here: http://www.spamblocked.com/proxomitron/

While I've never used it a lot of people seem to swear by SEM products: http://www.semproducts.com/