MikeW

I don't see how it would be possible to make a solid wheel (i.e., no gaps) out of real wood.

I'm fairly sure my gearshift knob is wood (at least the grain looks proper) but the steering wheel is almost certainly plastic. This has been discussed thoroughly in the past without anyone proving it conclusively one way or the other. I plan on refinishing mine plastic or not ...

Rust

Others here will certainly have better advice. However, keep in mind that primer is porous because its whole job is to allow paint to stick to it. I wouldn't drive a primer-only car anywhere where it could get wet.

That makes sense since you could accidentally turn them completely off.

Actually, if you roll it over it will be sucking air as the fuel pickup would be at the top. Seriously, I guess it wouldn't be such a bad idea to get it to shut off. Perhaps you could use a relay that is open when the engine is not actually running. I wonder if it could draw power only from the alternator somehow as that would only be generating is the engine was turning over.

While I don't have any 280 road tests handy, a 260 test I found listed 18-20mpg on regular gas. In other words, 17 isn't all that far from what would be expected.

If the door doesn't latch properly it's more likely the striker plate on the door jamb that needs to be adjusted; not anything inside the door.

Here's a VR with cover on EBay. I can't tell what the cover is made of. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33577&item=2417703439

Here's what I've used. It's cheap and easy to find at most hardware stores: http://automotive.aubuchonhardware.com/engine_lubricants_and_additives/penetrating_oil_and_lithium_grease/3-in-1_motor_oil-575407.asp

Yep, you do have to know how to refine your search. I used "back to black" rubber Another great thing about google is the google toobar. Can't work without it: http://toolbar.google.com/

Google is your friend: http://www.autogeek.net/motbactrimca.html

Ok, so what do you see when you click on "My Gallery"?

Are you sure the upload worked? I don't see any pictures in your gallery. Normally, before they are approved you should see a black and white replacement image that says something like "Image pending approval". Do you even see those?

There's a rheostat knob under the dash (like the knob that resets the trip odometer but on the other side) that adjusts the brightness of all of the instrument bulbs. Yours may be turned down. On the other hand, all of your bulbs may be dim due to years of use. I wouldn't expect to see anything in daylight except for perhaps the brake warning and the hi beam indicator. The true test would be how things look at night.

Back when I was driving my 240Z in college I built a way over-engineered waterbed out of 2x10's. I brought all of them (some 8 foot and some 10 foot) home sticking out the hatch. 2x4's are nothing. On the other hand, here's how not to load building supplies ... http://www.tardsite.com/trdomnth122000.htm

Well what do you know ... the current bid is down to $3100. I guess someone got smart and retracted their bids.

I've seen a lot worse. That one is actually fairly well done. On the other hand, I don't see the point in trying to make a Z look like a Ferrari, especially when you go to the length of using prancing horse emblems on the wheels and steering wheel. Instead of using one of the kits to radically change the body they just used a G nose and minor Ferrari-like modifications.

Perhaps you could just take a Haynes manual or something similar with you. I don't have one handy at the moment but since those manuals cover several model years any reference to a Catalytic converter will say something like "1975 and greater".

Unless it changed between models it's a blue rectangular indicator at the very bottom of the speedometer. It shouldn't be hard to get to as long as you don't mind being upside down under the steering wheel and reaching up while your blood rushes to your head ...

The Z generally has enough headroom for most people. I don't think 6'5" is a problem as the seats can slide all the way back and tilt back as well. Don't expect more than about 20mpg - less depending on how you drive - and we all know how you probably drive. On the other hand, gasoline is cheap compared to other things, especially in the US. While mileage is a consideration don't let it affect you too much. I'm all for being environmentally friendly but I wouldn't pay a lot of extra money to get better gas mileage. You can buy an awful lot of gas for the difference in price. Look at the price difference and mileage difference here for essentially the same car: http://autos.yahoo.com/compare/compare_over.html?count=3&cmpCar1=toyota03echo4doorsedan&cmpCar2=toyota03prius4doorsedan

I'm so glad you got it back!! :classic: I kind of suspected joyriders as opposed to professionals when you first posted this but I didn't say anything. You're probably right about the key thing. I've been wondering what to do about that as well to prevent a loss like yours. I'm guessing you're thinking of such things as well ... :devious:

XXXS30 = 240, 260 or 280Z First X above: Blank = Coupe G = 2+2 Second X above: H = L24 for 240Z R = L26 for 260Z H = L28E for 280Z Third X above: L = Left hand drive Blank = Right hand drive

Actually, the gasket is not the problem here. In fact, you don't really need those gaskets as the fuel in the float bowls should never reach that level. The whole point of the float bowls is to keep a constant fuel level. When the float goes up it presses on a needle valve that shuts off the fuel supply. When it goes back down it lets more in. The needle valve can stick open or closed. Yours was stuck open which never shut off the fuel supply hence the flood. If it sticks closed you'll have 3 cylinders not operating and can sometimes beat on the float bowl cover to unstick it. Beating on the cover may help you as well but you can easily remove the lid and try to clean it up. The best solution are replacement valves called Grose-Jets. Unfortunately they don't seem to be readily available anymore; I'm not sure why: http://www.ztherapy.com/products/ReplacmenCarbParts/grosejet.htm The reason I say the gasket doesn't really matter is that there are hoses that attach to the top of the bowls that run to the air cleaner. If the needle valve gets stuck open the fuel will go straight to the air cleaner where it will pool up in the back and then leak out onto your exhaust pipe. If it simply leaks out of the bowl itself if will bypass the exhaust manifold by a bit.

I'm guessing he's talking about this: http://www.por15.com/tankseal_fuelpreserve.html