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MikeW

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Everything posted by MikeW

  1. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Can someone describe how the front and rear bumper ends are attached to the body? The FSM doesn't really help and I don't have the parts CD yet. As I recall, mine were always a bit wobbly. Now that I'm about to put the rechromed bumpers back on I want to make sure it's done right. Specifically, I'd like to know where washers go. I've got fresh new rubber caps that fit over the plate on the bumper where the bolt goes through. Presumably that rubber goes up against the paint on the car to protect it. However, what goes on the inside behind the body? Is it just a single washer that's bigger than the bolt hole? Do I also need a lock washer?
  2. At the end it claims the whole thing was staged. What I'm wondering is if the guy asking the questions was the real butt of the joke. He seemed to be ignorant enough to believe the answers.
  3. In the state of Georgia, where that tag is from, plates are not required on the front of cars. I could make up my own 240Z plate and put it on the front and nobody would care. I have a special Hobby/Antique plate on mine (car must be at least 25 years old to qualify). There's no extra cost for this. Anyone can get a 'prestige' plate for an extra $50 (since it's custom made). It can say anything you want as long as it's not offensive (although someone did get QQQQ in one state) and not already used. I'm sure someone has 240Z but perhaps not some other combination like 70240Z, MY240Z, etc.
  4. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    It's actually http://babelfish.altavista.com that's doing an automated translation of the original Japanese page located here: http://page3.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c36347537 In other words, be glad you can read it at all. Here's what this site looks like in Spanish: http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/urltrurl?lp=en_es&url=http://www.240z.org
  5. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Here's a place to calculate exchange rates: http://www.xe.com/ucc/ The 4 links you listed come out to be $42,721.09 $44,357.10 $16,987.83 $1,115.50
  6. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I would suggest taking it to a local radiator shop and asking them how much it will cost to re-core it.
  7. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Here's one where someone eliminated the rear bumper: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3897&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500
  8. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    It depends on how you want it to fit. The 240Z has front turn signals beneath the bumper that are usually taken into consideration on front air dams.
  9. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    I only recently discovered that my car (originally #113 green) didn't come with a black interior like it had when I bought it. It was silver at that time so one of the previous owners also took the dye route. I would have never known the difference.
  10. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Keep in mind that 240Z radiators were never quite up to the task in warm climates. When I bought mine years ago it also had a tendency to run hot (in the summer in Savannah). I pulled the radiator and took it to a radiator shop and had them redo the core (from 2 rows to 3 or 3 to 4, I can't remember). Not only did that add cooling capacity but it cleaned it out. The cooling fins get damaged and the tubes get squeezed and plugged over time. After that the temp needle was rock solid even while idling in hot weather. Having the car overheat is one way to quickly do a lot of damage so it's worth it to make sure the cooling system is functioning well.
  11. That's great news.
  12. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    As I'm sure the registration numbers would be more difficult to obtain here in the states perhaps we can extrapolate a bit. How many 240Z models were originally sold in the UK? I'm sure some of the 152 listed above were later imported but it would still be interesting to have a rough percentage of how many are still on the road. On the other hand, cars are probably more "disposable" here. The other end of the spectrum is Cuba, where they still drive many American cars from the '50s.
  13. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Out of curiosity, does anyone have any idea of how many 240's are still left? I realize there's no way to answer this but even a wild guess might be nice. 1 out of 10? 20? I know quite a few members here can account for some that are not still around ... :cheeky:
  14. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    I suspect it's just a buyer versus seller sort of thing. Everyone around here probably thinks your car is awesome and wishes they could buy it for $20K. When your house gets appraised for tax purposes you're angry when it goes up a bit. At the same time, if you decide to sell your house, you're indignant at the low offers you get because surely it's worth a lot more. I think we all agree that the $75K is a bit extreme. You're right about the $30-$35K the Nissan restorations went for. Prices are all about what someone thinks something is worth. A few years ago an 1804 silver dollar sold for $4.14 million. It's just a hunk of silver but there were only 15 of them made. Interesting enough, 8 of them were minted in 1834 and the other 7 were minted in 1857. Just like the Nissan factory cars they're reproductions. Whoever paid $4.14 million paid it just so they could say they have something that not many other people have. That and to keep it long enough for someone else to want it even more. Your car is the same sort of thing. Someone, at some point, will really want it.
  15. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Scott Bruning in his tune-up video mentions just slapping some grease at the end of the worn shft as a way of reducing the air leak.
  16. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    See this old thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5210&highlight=bolt+size
  17. Perhaps you missed this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6793
  18. So what would be a good circuit on an early Z to interrupt? We don't have fuel injection or electronic ignition and with the hood open it's quite easy to figure out where everything is ...
  19. I didn't say it wasn't important. I said it wasn't critical. The fact that many people use different things (and mixtures of things) means that what you use doesn't have to be exactly what Nissan says to use. The original poster was trying to figure out what oil to use as it related to a car that hadn't run in 13 years. I'd try to get it running before tweaking the oil.
  20. Well. it's not going to take a lot of your time, just your money. It looks like ZTherapy will charge you $950 for a pair of rebuilt round tops. MSA charges $600 plus a $300 core charge for the same. Your other option would be to find a used pair and rebuild them yourself (trading time for money). Perhaps someone around here has some.
  21. I'm guessing you're thinking about ZTherapy (which used to be in Idaho but was sold to someone in Oregon) This particular page should be of interest to you: http://www.ztherapy.com/technical_stuff/spotterguides/zcar/240spotter.htm
  22. The oil in the carbs is probably the least of your problems (since we're talking about flat tops) but Nissan recommended 20 weight oil. Some people use ATF and others use something else. It's not really critical as the oil is just used to dampen the movement of the piston up and down. A lighter oil allows the piston to move faster which increases throttle response.
  23. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Suspension & Steering
    Wow, I sure hope not ...
  24. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Interior
    It appears to me that your seats used to have the webbing but I'm sure that someone with more experience will have the definative answer.
  25. MikeW posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    http://www.worldmessenger.20m.com/brits.html
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