MikeW

So did their power get restored? It seems kind of funny for someone representing the power company to knock on the door at midnight but then say "I'm really here because of the car ..."

To do it right you're looking at about $250 for new vinyl and another $250 for new foam. Add to that your time and effort doing the job. I don't think you could expect to be able to sell the car for an extra $500 and even if you could you wouldn't recover (haha) your labor.

Many years ago I had my original radiator re-cored at a local radiator shop. They added an extra row and I never had any cooling problems after that. That may be an option for anyone trying to keep the original look but get additional cooling. I don't know what a job like that would run today but I don't recall it being all that bad back then.

I sense an opportunity here ...

The stock floorboard retractor pockets were added around 9/71. I know this because my 9/71 car came with the pockets but without actual retracting seat belts. The earlier non-retracting belts only needed one bolt at the floor mounting point instead of two bolts needed by the retractor mechanism. My car came with rubber plugs in the unused second bolt hole. If the MSA system was designed to exactly replace the stock system they wouldn't work in '70 and '71 models and therefore they'd either be limiting their target audience or would need to have two separate systems depending on the model.

Unless you pulled the head or the timing cover or removed the distributor I would say that the rough running is not a result of the timing being dramatically off. I'd see if it runs smoothly, at least temporarily, with starting fluid sprayed into each carb. If so you've likely got a fuel delivery problem. If not I'd started checking ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires) before thinking that the timing somehow changed on its own while the car was sitting for 4 years. I don't know anything about the Crane setup so I don't know if that could be a factor.

Here in Georgia the car has to be 25 years old to get an antique plate so next year even a 1984 300ZX will qualify. The specialty plate costs an extra $20. Emissions testing is only required in 13 counties surrounding the Atlanta metro area and once again cars older than 25 years are exempt. If this fraud was perpetrated for either of the above reasons it wasn't done recently because a 1974 260Z would have met both requirements in 1999.

"One of the Multipla's needs to go. This is the most complete of 3 that I have." Wow. I'd hate to see the other two.

Only if the tail lights were swapped from a later car. All 240z's have the integrated white backup lights. All US 260 and 280z's have the separate white backup light closer to the license plate. Swapping out the rear panel is a whole lot more work than swapping the VIN tag which is what I suspect happened here.

I'm not sure that a post with 30 attached pictures would ever be considered appropriate for the "Open ZCar Discussion" forum. People trying to sell cars often have better luck posting a URL to a proper ad such as on eBay.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pete_Brock often confused with the late Peter Brock who coincidentally died driving a Daytona replica: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Brock

The plastic fans came later. A 1/70 car surely came with a metal fan.

If that's the urethane airdam make sure they include the appropriate flex additive in the paint. That may be the reason they didn't paint it to begin with. Surely that topic came up already?

I'm happy to have anyone post the link anywhere they like if that helps. My entire motivation behind creating a spreadsheet editable by the public was to keep people from having to rely on others to maintain the information. I'd be perfectly happy if this site itself could host the data but I don't believe that the software that runs this site has this type of capability. I created separate tabs for 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, as well as "other S30". Hopefully that designation didn't offend anyone as only two cars have been added to that latter tab. If needed new tabs can be easily added by anyone who feels the need.

An original windshield will only be marked Nissan.

Same here. While there's not much tension on those bolts I still wouldn't have expected it to work that well. It should even work in reverse to put the old security bolts back in place since they weren't damaged. When I removed mine using the dremel tool method I was doing it to replace the entire set of locks with a new set. The new set even came with new security bolts which are installed with a wrench and then broken off to remove the bolt head. I still have those new security bolts lying around somewhere. I just used regular bolts instead since they were clearly fairly pointless. After all you only need a little crazy glue ...

I did say that if you find that your email spam is not the hoax that most are that you could just post the snopes link which you thoughtfully did. I couldn't find specific barcodes for Chinese dairy products but it does appear that the snopes link verifies that barcodes starting with 690 through 695 originated in China. If you choose to use this information when shopping for groceries then more power to you.

I get the impression that we are all about to get spammed with an email chain letter - copied and pasted in to this web forum - the kind that people forward to everyone they know by adding their entire address book to the cc line. If I'm mistaken here please accept my apologies. If not, please go to www.snopes.com and type "melamine" in the search box and see if a facsimile of the email chain letter shows up there with a reasonable explanation. If you get a "true" result and it's something that people should really know then simply post the snopes URL and don't worry about how to copy and paste an email spam. As an aside if you're going forward the email to your entire address book at least have the courtesy of using the bcc like so as not to broadcast my email address to all of your dimwit friends who will forward it to everyone they know and where a spammer will eventually get it.

Would there be a cost savings taking it directly to the locksmith versus having a service call on site?

I used a dremel tool to cut a notch in each security bolt. They then come out using a flat-bladed screwdriver.

Nissan didn't keep records on this. The build date (month/year) should be on the driver side door jamb tag. The original paint code tag is on the top of the radiator support just in front of the radiator and towards the right side of the car. If your car has been repainted and the sticker is missing it's quite unlikely that a previous paint job would have been so thorough as to hide all of the original paint. Places to look: up under the dashboard at the top of the firewall, the bottom side of the tool bin doors, on top of the transmission tunnel under the removable ash tray. There were a limited number of colors available so original paint in any of those places will allow a quick determination of the paint code.

The Trojans were ineffective against the Beavers this year. My first-ever trip to the west coast was to Corvallis. I spent a few days doing some consulting work at a company there called CH2M Hill. After work one day I did the rental car drive over the hills to Newport and then up the Pacific Coast Highway a bit. It was a memorable experience. I've since driven almost all of the highway in all three states but I've always thought that part of the pacific northwest would be a nice place to retire.

Thanks, Arne - the shims are precisely what I was referring to. My car doesn't have the end caps so either it never had them or they were removed by a previous owner. Somehow those seem like a '73 item along with the black spacer that covers the gap behind the bumper. Hopefully someone here will know for sure.

There should be a piece of rubber that covers the ear on the bumper itself. This protects the paint. I'm thinking of part #6 and #7 here: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/full.aspx?Page=25 I admit that their diagram isn't the way I remember it. I think the parts are much smaller and not visible once the bumper is installed.

I bet it's connected to the big red thing in front of the battery: possibly an alarm system?