MikeW

I talked to the owner of that car and it looked to be in nice shape. I seem to recall that he was hoping to get somewhere between 10 and 12 but it looks like it didn't work out for him: http://www.harperauctionandrealty.com/pastauctionstownmtn.html

I hope you labeled everything. If not do it now while things are still fresh in your mind. I'd also consider cleaning everything that has 30+ years of dust and grime such as everything related to the fresh air system like the ducts and blower and housing.

That's strange; I don't recall having any trouble with getting to connectors on my '72 and it had the remnants of dealer-installed A/C when I removed the dash. Perhaps the factory A/C is a lot more obtrusive. Can you post some pictures showing what you're up against?

Perhaps you missed #4 which admittedly is not shown in bold like the other 3 ...

In the US the cars evolved over time. Changes were made to reduce emissions and improve safety in crashes. The improved emissions led to lower performance as did the extra weight of bigger bumpers and body reinforcements. Because of these factors the engine displacement was increased from 2.4 liters to 2.6 liters for the 260Z in 1974 and to 2.8 liters for the 280Z in 1975. Despite the extra horsepower from the bigger engines performance wasn't quite up to the earlier standard which is a big reason why the earlier cars are more desirable. Another reason is that people like the appearance of the smaller bumpers even if they aren't as safe. There were many small refinements throughout the years, often in the middle of a model year. I don't know of a comprehensive list of changes for all years.

Loose battery cable? Sometimes if there's a bad connection or corrosion on the connector putting a heavy load (i.e., the starter) on the connection it will cause it to not work at all.

While I agree that properly tuned carbs will help with the exhaust smell my concern is that making it smell better might lead to a false sense of security if the exhaust is still getting in the car. Think of the unburned fuel like the rotten egg smell added to natural gas; it's lets you know you've got a leak. Carbon monoxide has no smell so that may still be getting in.

While I can't answer your specific question you might find this engine calculator useful: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292&highlight=L6

That's exactly what I did; it took just a couple of minutes. The screws in question are supposedly for "theft protection".

Even the early 260 bumpers would be different than those from a '72. For '73 the bumpers were mounted differently and stick out from the body slightly more. I don't know if '73 bumpers are the same as early '74 bumpers but neither are right for a '72.

Welcome. What year is your 240Z? Earlier models came with plastic tool bins that mounted to the vertical surface behind the seats. Later models have compartments with hinged lids under the carpet.

See the first post in this thread ...

Consider yourself lucky. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13129&highlight=james+burgess

The rear passenger seat belts in my 240SX have this same design. It was constantly getting detached when my son was riding back there. I "fixed" this problem by threading a small bolt and nut through the elongated hole after attaching the shoulder belt portion such that the two can no longer come apart accidentally.

At what RPM does it ping in 3rd? Since Arne's engine is different than mine I suppose you should consult the factory service manual for your particular model. For mine, 1972 L24 with twin SUs and an 8.8:1 compression ratio the FSM specifies "more than 95" for octane. Where I live I can only buy 87, 91, or 93. It also specifies with emission control to use "91 (low lead)". I mostly use 87 and never notice pinging.

High octane is only required if the compression ratio is high enough that the engine would pre-detonate (ping) otherwise. For a stock engine regular should be fine.

According to Alan Thomas in a thread from long ago the true 432 grille part numbers are 62300-E4101 and 62300-E7200 for the 432R. I can't find those parts but Courtesy used to offer 62300-N3000: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=62300-N3000&Category_Code= which is still available from here for $134: http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=62300N3000 http://www.nissanpart4u.com shows it for $130.87. I can't link directly to their page so you'll have to search by part number. Here's the original thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8923

At least they cut down some of the weeds around the car. On the other hand, one of the rocks holding the sunroof closed has gone missing.

I wonder if it's possible to install this using the standard rheostat location and knob? It looks like their controller has an on/off switch. Why would you need that?

Do your backup-lights work?

The previous thread was about two wires that come through the firewall in that vicinity and go down to the automatic transmission. Because of the length required to reach the transmission they are long enough to reach the brake booster/wiper motor on the driver's side if someone chose to route them that way after swapping to a manual transmission.

See if this thread helps: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23696

For whatever reason yours is clearer than mine. That part number actually exists and it's amazingly inexpensive: http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=28836E4100

I'm afraid I can't answer "what's normal" but what if your clear coat is not "normal"? You might be safer searching the web for an online spec sheet. You might also post exactly what you're using here in case someone else is familiar with it.

I tried to get the part numbers off of the club CD but they're hard to read. You can order parts from www.nissanparts.cc but the wiper motor cover either doesn't show up or I can't read the number properly. I've attached a picture; good luck. The RH air horn is available 62590-E4101, but not the left. While I haven't tried them yet one of my local Nissan dealers is now selling parts online at http://www.nissanpart4u.com. They also show the above for less.