Everything posted by MikeW
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Heater Control Panel
Wow, I'm sure glad I bought mine when I did ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-Heater-Control-Panel-Brand-NEW-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33545QQihZ017QQitemZ270045485933QQrdZ1
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Hi
We discussed this previously in a thread I started. Someone posted a picture showing 3 tie down hooks and one tow hook: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=136746&postcount=12
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Gasoline Fumes In The Car!?
If you're smelling fuel and not exhaust then it's quite likely that you only get the smell after filling up the tank. There are a number of vent hoses that may be deteriorating and allowing fumes into the passenger compartment.
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Besides the washer fluid pump, what else gets power on the drivers side?
Interesting. I don't see anything in the factory service manual wiring diagram for 1972 that shows two black wires going to anything. Certainly not in that area of the car. How long are these two wires from where they split out of the harness? Is there any electrical component in the car that's not working?
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Hi
Nope. The recently released version is 2.0. http://www.getfirefox.com will take you to the appropriate download location at Mozilla.
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Besides the washer fluid pump, what else gets power on the drivers side?
It's not clear from your description but I assume that you're trying to figure out the two wires that enter from the right center and end on top of the fender. The other wires shown resting on the master cylinder cap match what I expect. The Black and Black/Yellow wires clearly are for the washer pump and the third wire is already connected to the previously mentioned brake switch. On my car (also 1972) those three wires are included in a single harness that comes through the firewall beneath the battery (along with other wires) and runs up and across the firewall at the very top near the hood. What's not obvious to me from your description or photo is where the other two wires are coming from. Are they part of the same harness as the others? Also, what colors are the wires themselves? That should give us a clue.
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More Electric Nightmares
Please be aware that few people here at classiczcars.com know much about the 280ZX and that you posted this in the "Datsun 240K" forum meaning that it might not be seen by many.
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Hi
Just to clarify we're actually talking about tie-down hooks here. They were used to secure the cars on ships. On the front of the car is a solid ring that would be more appropriate for towing.
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Besides the washer fluid pump, what else gets power on the drivers side?
Can you post a picture? I'm wondering if it's for something aftermarket like an alarm system. I don't think it's stock at this point.
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Would i get away with bogging this up?
Aussie speak for Bondo.
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Besides the washer fluid pump, what else gets power on the drivers side?
I'm not aware of another pair of wires. There is a single wire that goes to the "brake line pressure differential warning switch". This causes the red lamp that you normally only see with the parking brake on to illuminate. It indicates a difference in pressure between the front and rear brake systems. You'll sometimes see it trigger when the brake fluid is low. The wire has a bullet connector and plugs in to the switch which is mounted on the inner fender about 6 inches below the master cylinder. Look between the front master cylinder reservoir cap and the air cleaner. The top center connector is where the wire plugs in. All of the other lines going to that unit are hydraulic brake lines.
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Mike, or anyone else
Click on your own "User CP" and you will see ...
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Mike, or anyone else
My guess is that this feature is so new and so little used that the data just isn't valid yet. We might have 3 people with negatives and 3 with positives and 5000 that are neutral. In that case the top 50 or bottom 50 have no meaning. I realize that people are probably concerned about the negative repercussions of a system like this. One way to avoid that is to only use it for positive purposes. The next time someone posts something that you think is helpful to you or someone else go ahead and add to their reputation. I often want to follow up a post with "Wow, that's good information" but don't want to clutter up the thread. This is a nice alternative.
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Mike, or anyone else
In general I like this new feature. I see it being useful for filtering out spam. I currently add spammers and people like cardogman1 to my ignore list. I'm assuming that if enough people give a thumbs down to someone that the little green square will turn red or something. That will help identify people who should be ignored. On the other hand, there are plenty of people here who are always quite helpful and knowledgeable and I see this as a way to recognize those individuals. I don't think that post counts themselves really matter; it's more the quality of the posts that counts. I agree that the vague descriptions like "off the scale" or "on a distinguished road" aren't very useful.
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a very odd little creature.
Perhaps it was a "dirt dauber". It's a type of wasp that collects and builds a nest out of mud. http://www.hiltonpond.org/ThisWeek020401.html
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Anyone in the Springfield, Mo. area?
It's not an issue of cost to the recipient. It's an issue of spammers picking of valid e-mail addresses from public web pages.
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Anyone in the Springfield, Mo. area?
I'd suggest using the PM mechanism to send an e-mail address to someone instead of posting it publicly. You can edit your existing post if needed.
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pistons
0.040 in = 1.01600 millimeters
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'70 240z in denver
They've got problems with the link to the current issue. It's just a pdf file. Try the direct URL: http://www.zccc.org/Odometer/102006.pdf
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'70 240z in denver
Unless the car has dangerous rust all you need for a solid driver is a working drive line (engine, transmission, differential, steering, brakes, etc.). Paint and bodywork don't matter. The interior doesn't matter. It really doesn't take much money to get a 240Z to that point. Some people start out with a car that doesn't drive and completely restore it over a period of years before they can finally drive it. The other approach, which is what I did, is start with the mechanical work, get the car driving reliably, and then worry about the cosmetics.
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stock airbox refinish..
This has been discussed before. Here's the most recent thread that I could find: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22003
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72 heater problem
You're absolutely right. I don't know what I was thinking.
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Anyone used CD's injection molded seat foam?
Here ya go. It's difficult to get a good picture of the grain. Obviously my interior is a non-standard color so that might affect your opinion.
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72 heater problem
Air from the blower only comes out the center center vent, the defroster vents blowing up on the windshield, and the floor vents. The two side "eyeball" vents only bring fresh air in from the outside and are opened and closed by the knob beneath them. Can you post pictures of the mysterious rubber kidney? The only thing that comes to mind is the bag that keeps water off of the wiper motor.
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Wacky Tach
You can easily carry a spare set of points with the Pertronix as well. It's very easy to switch back to them as the Pertronix merely replaces the points and nothing more.