MikeW

The aftermarket "Precision" seals. I didn't realize that the design was different from OEM.

I didn't even bother with adhesive as the door weatherstrip sticks on fairly well all by itself. As far as the adhesive drying with the doors open or closed I doubt it matters.

My understanding is that it can be transferred to a new owner of that machine or if your machine breaks and you need to replace it but doesn't count if you simply want to upgrade. Here's what TiVo has to say: http://tinyurl.com/6n34f

It's not so much an order as just doing everything at once. The idea is that you're, for instance, having to slow down to go around a curve. You have to brake for the curve but would like to downshift at the same time, either for additional braking, or, more likely, to be able to accelerate better after the curve. Since a proper downshift in this situation requires increasing the RPMs you really need 3 feet: one for each pedal. Since you probably don't have three feet you'll need to somehow use one foot for two pedals and it's easiest to use your right foot for both the brake and the gas while your left handles the clutch. It's not such much your heel and toe as it is two sides of the same foot. Here's a much more thorough explanation with pictures and everything. http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/45792/article.html Instead of bothering to write an explanation of double-clutching and then searching for a link I've just skipped straight to a link: http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1996/December/11.html

It's actually $5/month per household, not per unit so I don't have to pay $15 for my 3 units. The so-called lifetime option that TiVo offers on standalone units is actually the lifetime of the unit not your lifetime. While electronics these days last a long time you'll frankly want to by a super new unit with a 1000 hours capacity in a few years anyhow. My most recent DirecTivo device was $79 for an 80 hour unit. Some of my season passes: Reno 911 Mythbusters The Daily Show Classic car restoration Overhaulin'

I wouldn't worry about it filling up your drive. TiVo will always record something you've asked for before recording something it thinks you'll like and likewise will erase any suggestions as needed prior to erasing something you've asked for.

I have the same setup as Carl only I have 3 units total (one for each TV in the house). One more thing about TiVo that Carl didn't mention is that you can rate shows using TiVo. If you see something you really like you can give it one or more "thumbs up" ratings. Something you don't like gets the "thumbs down". TiVo gathers this information and will use it to automatically record shows for you based on what it thinks you'll like. It determines this by looking at how other people rated stuff that you also rated. Because of this, and the shows you've specifically told it to record you rarely watch live TV. After all, there's always a bunch of good stuff waiting for you to watch on your own schedule.

I used Xylene to clean up the remaining residue. I also tried Acetone but Xylene works much better. It's the main ingredient in those goo remover products but is much cheaper and you can buy it buy the quart or gallon at places like Home Depot or Lowes, etc. It is toxic so wear proper breathing protection.

Normally you'd just use a longer breaker bar with a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. You can do this without even taking the valve cover off. I'd do that instead of trying the camshaft idea. I think it's a 27mm bolt.

I used a heat gun as well. The idea is to just soften the whole thing up enough for it to peel up and not break into little pieces. It's not enough to melt it completely and it comes up easily with a plastic paint scraper.

I used these guys: http://www.jasperengines.com/ It was around $2000 but that includes shipping both ways. You get a 3 year 70,000 mile warranty and it's basically a new engine. From what I could tell, I got back my original block, crankshaft, head, and camshaft. Everything else (pistons, connecting rods, valves, valve seats, chain, sprockets, etc. is new). If you don't care about matching numbers they probably have one ready to go and you just send yours as a core.

It's possible that a bad voltage regulator is causing the battery to be overcharged (too high a voltage). You could put a meter across the battery while the car is running to measure the voltage. It could be that the battery itself is bad - or has already been damaged - so I don't know that I'd even want to try it with the current battery. You might consider just taking it somewhere that sells batteries. They can diagnose the one you've got as well as the whole charging system.

The problem is that over time water can build up in the brake fluid and that can cause rust.

If pumping it three times makes it stop then I'd say you've got more bleeding to do. As Will said, even without the booster the brakes should still work. You can verify this by removing the vacuum hose from the booster. You loose the power assist but you can still brake the car.

No but he does say right front door in a couple of places ...

That's the best way to do it. You don't want to have to pay a lot and getting a big refund is not so great either. By the way, if you are entitled to a refund the government doesn't care one bit about filing your taxes by the deadline. You won't be penalized for filing late. Keep that in mind if you find yourself driving to a late night post office on the day of the deadline.

Getting a refund simply means that you had more withheld throughout the year than was needed to meet your tax obligation. You let the government hold onto your money and then they pay you back, without interest, after you file your taxes. If it would make you feel better, you could give me, say, $100 a month and I could then "refund" it to you come April.

Motorsport Auto is once place that carries them: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=SIC I don't know about shipping to Sweden; there may well be another source closer to you. Edit: sorry, I was referring just to the interior rivets that started this thread. If you're interested in lenses and plastic panels there are other sources.

The "spec" sheet claims 730 HP: http://www.lateral-g.org/sandlin/Inciner8orSpecs.pdf

Will didn't have a target on him when we got together last August. That may have changed since. I had a camera at the time but failed to take advantage of the opportunity.

His public profile indicates that he was last here today. Perhaps he was just trying to get a reaction out of people since there has been no response.

Just go up a level to read all about it and see more pictures: http://www.lateral-g.org/sandlin/

You're right. I think they're officially called "skins". It looks like you can also change the skin at the very bottom of your control panel options.

On the very bottom left of some pages is a combo box that defaults to "-- vbPortal Demo". You can change themes there.

Each carb has a separate bowl that contains a float. The purpose of this is to regulate the amount of fuel available to the carb. When the bowl fills up the float raises and pushes on a needle valve that shuts off the fuel flow. As the carb consumes fuel the float goes back down which in turn lets in more fuel. What happens sometimes is that needle valve gets stuck open, usually due to debris in the fuel. Even though the float is trying to close the valve it stays open. There are actually hoses from the top of each float bowl that go straight to the air cleaner as a way of handling this accidental overflow but if float bowl lid gaskets are not good fuel will leak out there. When you step on the gas the carb consumes fuel which in turn lowers the level and stops the leak temporarily. It's fairly simple to remove the lid from the float bowl to diagnose and fix the problem.