EuroDat

Phil, If you are going all the way and replacing both units. Buy a new hose section as well. Altough it lasts longer than the cylinder cups, its probably still original and been there since 1970. The inner rubber section is probably spongy and flexing with every press of the pedal by now and making the clutch feel a little sprongy as well. Chas

If the slave cylinder is working correctly. Some other things that cause prevent clutch disengaging. Siezed spigot bearing or a broken/cracked clutch fork. Ive seen a cracked clutch fork in a Datsun 180B. It cracked at the pivot point inside the bell housing. Took a long time to find the problem. Afterwards we realised we could have seen it by removing the rubber boot and looking at it with a mirror. I have only seen it on this 180B, but I have heard of it happening to other people. Chas

I would try a simple test before doing anything. Get someone to push the clutch peddle to the floor and watch the slave cylinder. If it doesn't more, than your problem isat the clutch master cylinder. My guess is a collapsed primary cup in your master cylinder. Its probably deteriorated over the time it was sitting still. Gunk and corrosion gather in the bottom of the cylinder when sitting still and tears the cup apart. Replacing the fluid might help, but I think you will eventually need a new clutch MC. Chas

I have never used them, but MSA sell them in two sizes, one thins set for 14" wheels and a thicker set for 15" and larger. Check their performance section under steering upgrades. These things only help if you lowered the ride height. If the ride height is using "stock springs" they will make little difference. Their purpose is to lower the end of the control arm close to horisontal and bring it back towards its original position. Chas

Back in the good old days your engine was fitted with silicon/bronze valve seats which are not suitable for unleaded fuel. You will burn the valves and seats using unleaded for prolong periods without a lead additive. I think Nissan changed to steel seats in Australia around the time the 280ZX came out, but I think that was more to simplify production. Australia didnt change to unleaded until 1985. The 98 is your best choice plus a lead additive or rebuild the head with steel seats which translates to a lot of lead additive. BTW Premium leaded was around 97 octane. GTHO's, RT chargers and XU1's loved the stuff. Thats my Gen... Chas

Here are some threads with settings. Your settings are pretty close to them. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/47764-alignment-shops-arghhhh.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/49235-toe.html I had some problems with bump steer which was caused by the solid PU bushes on the tension rods. I changed them to the TC kit and that reduced it to an aceptable level for me. Then again, Im not racing it or anything like that. Chas

If your using new stock (standard ride height) springs you shouldn't need bump steer spacers. They correct the geomentry with the car is lowered. It could be in your alignment settings since the camber and caster settings are now adjustable. Do you now wat the settings are? Here is a thread from Blue you can read about his settings compared with recommendations from John Coffey? Chas

Zed is right, if you shorten the bush it will spin and squeak even worse then the PU bush. The PU bush spins on the inner sleeve and its dry. Its hard to get any lube in there without dismantling it. The spindle pins will be the worst to dismantle. Black dont mean much. It depends on the manufacture. Mine are black with NO graphite. Chas

MJP Eastern Auto sells replica Euro spoilers for $140 + shipping. You guys will freak when you what its cost to send something over the atlantic. Fibreglass panels for 240Z / 260Z They also have the G-Nose type 1 & type 2 for $685 + shipping. Chas

How did you manage to get your hands on a euro distributor? Ill let you in on a little secret. On the Courtesy website its hard to find stuff for the S30. An easier way is to go to their home page and use the "Improved! Search" function to search for a part number, you will find it, given that they have it in stock. To find the part number use the Carpartsmanual website User Log In or download the software for E-Fast from XenonS30. I think they also have the Euro database as well. Chas

Mmmm, dont know how I managed to translate egr to pcv. I might be having problems with "brain" fade.:stupid: Thanks for the correction. Chas

You could also try Courtesy Nissan for genuine Top hose 21501-N3000. $16.55 HOSE RAD :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com Lower hose 21503-N3000. $19.56 HOSE RAD :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com Chas

That air cleaner looks brilliant. Did you sand blast it before painting it? The colour looks pretty close on the photo's Your making good progress. Chas

The E88 head came out somewhere in june 71 in the series II 240Z with the P30 L24 block and changed to the N42 when they went to the 280Z L28 block in march 75. All the engines had flat top pistons except the last of the L26 (I think it was jun 74 to feb 75) which had 7.09cc dished pistons for emmisions. Nice purchase. The F54 is a good block The problem with the E88 is that they made extensive changes along the way but retained the code E88. I beleive there are four versions. The first two are mostly port runner improvement, but the last two are emmision heads with emmision chambers. The last one having the larger exhaust valve for the L26. The compression ratio started at 9.1:1 with the first head and ended at 8.2:1 in the L26. Looking at your descrition, he built a F54 for the P79 head (uses flat tops) and put a E88 head on it. Can you get more info over the head. Like was it origanally on a L26. That would narrowit down a lot. I dont think it will be 10.5:1 but 9.4:1 is quiet possable with the larger bore and the "right" E88 head. Chas

Like Steve said, Rock auto has them. 1972 NISSAN 240Z Brake/Wheel Hub Parts. They have A1-Cardone and Centric. Or you could try Black dragon. They have then on core exchange too. Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto Chas

Wade advice is good. I would follow it and take it to a muffler shop. I like to do thing myself but this is a real PITA to get done and done right. Its hard to drill the old stud straight and not remove metal from the manifold in the process. If its not leaking and your planning on replacing it soon, it might be easier to wait and do it then. Chas

In the Netherlands the indicators under the bumper were allowed, but the ones on the side of the front fender not. I believe Zwitserland had this variation with the indicator on the bumper and Austria as well. The European market has a pretty broard array of options and standards. I haven't seen that spoiler before, but it looks great. Not answering your question at all, but could not help adding my 2 cents... Chas

My MC started leaking in february. The typicla brake fluid running down between the MC and Brake booster. I replaced it with Beck/Arnley from Rock Auto. They have cheaper units, but this looked closest to original and I have had good experience with Beck/Arnley brake components in the past. More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 0722694 A quick search on ebay and I found this Datsun 280z 280ZX PCV Hose RARE | eBay. I have nether purchsed from him, but he keeps coming up in my searches. He claims NOS, but its hard to tell it the packaging belongs to the hose. Its cheaper than $80. Chas

I have been having this problem too, but the last three days its been great and can't fault it. Chas

Aah dam it. Now that "bloody" finger of yours is back on this page. I have to see that every time. The new web host lists 100 post per page instead of 25 or so. Chas

I would think its the thermostat housing. The leak seems to start once the engine is nice and warm, which creates pressure in the cooling system through thermal expansion. I dont think the thermostat opening makes any differance, its the thermal expansion causing the pressure which causes the leak. You cant remove the thermostat housing because of the carbs, but can you remove the top housing with the radiator hose? That way you can inspect the internals of the lower housing without removing it. I would suspect its corroded through. Chas

Welcome to the club. Nice clean original 2+2. Thats a good find. IMO I would get her running again and drive her around a bit untill the winter then start on the resto. Its nice to get the before and after feel and then you know what you did all the work for. Enjoy it and goodluck Chas

Its a long time since Ive seen a Datsun tyre inflation can. They are getting really hard to find these days. Like most 280Z's its hard to survive 35 years and more without contacting something along the way. If it has not damaged the structure its ok. Panels, doors etc are fixable/replacable. You are really moving at a blistering pace. How many friends have you got working on it? Its like watching your favorite TV series, cant wait till the next episode;) Goodluck and don't forget to enjoy it along the way. Restoring is part of "journey' Chas

You can also still get the seal at your local Nissan dealer. Seal p/n: 32709-14600 O-ring p/n: 32710-14600 Less than $10.00. Chas

In my opinion a sunroof does not go with the classic Z. I would try to remove it. Others like them and in the end the choice is yours. Your resto is coming along great. Looking good so far. Will be great to see the photos it when its finished. Hi Bart, A local dealer here was talking to a friend about doing a wheel arch flares with glue. He said it should last 10years no problem. His reasoning why to use glue was: Easy and quick to use. And 10 years would be long enough because most cars go to the crusher before then. I dont know if that is the same product. chas