EuroDat

I have never replaced the floorpans, but from what I have sen in other threads if I was thinking of going to all the effort cutting them out out and welding new ones in, I would spend the extra bucks to get the best quality I could find. Thats my 2 cents and probably all it worth since its based on no floor pan experience what so ever.

You can download the FSM for the 280ZX here XenonS130 - S130 Reference. It has all the specs for the F54 block. Im not sure if there is a difference between the NA and Turbo tensions. That might explain the different tension? Chas

I don't know what your friend means by "cotter pin falling off". You might want to look at things like a worn wheel bearing or the bushes on the control arm/spindle pin, broken or worn out strut insulator at the top of the spring tower, or a loose shock bolt. Dont just start replacing stuff. That can cost money and time without fixing the problem. First identify your problem and then fix it.

Carl's tip about the mustache bar bolts is a good one. They were the cause of a rattle that took me months to find. One extra note. Nothing to do with the rattle. The rear hatch seal should be replaced for your own safety. Carbon monoxide poisoning can be a risk if it lets exhaust fumes in the cabin. Chas

Thats a great old workshop your grandfather had. A treasure of old cars:love:

I dont know if I would trust a helicoil. Helicoils work best in blind holes. If the bolt binds a little on the helicoil, it might screw the helicoil all the way through. I would drill it out for the next size metric bolt M10, if I recall correctly. If a hex head wont give you enough room for a socket, then you can use a set screw (allen key head). The Larger bolt will also be stronger because it has more thread surface area. Just make sure you use a grade 8 quality bolt. Thats my 2 cents... Chas

Welcome back Will. Goodluck hunting down a ahh shall I say S30, 240 - 280Z. That was a nice 260Z you had. I like the clean bumperless rear end. Chas

Hi Niels, Your photos are not bad at all. Its an excellent thread to follow because of the photos:cool: I was comparing your slave cylinder in post #101 and the heavy surface rust on the rear suspension in post #102. They are all signs that the car has been standing for a long time and probably out in the sun and that can be hard on dashes. My dash has some serious cracks in it (under a dash cap) and its spent the last 20years in the back of a garage. Looking at that suspension made me think of something else: spindle pins. Yours might be a real PITA to get out. Have you started spraying the spindle pin with WD40? A mix of acetone and auto tranny fluid is highly recommended by other members and I agree:bulb: You could brush that in them before trying to get them out. Cheers Chas

Making good progress. The dash looks ok compared to the stuff under the car. Its looks only really really grotty.

Thats a good "How to" on recovering seats. You make it look easy. I have never done it, but its in my wish list. I don't work on the car much in the summers months. The winter is project time. Next winter will be the dash, the 71C transmission and maybe the seats. How did you go with the camber issue? Btw the 905mm measurement I posted was across the engine bay. Chas

Have you tried RockAuto. They sell Moog parts and the bearing only costs $12.00. More Information for MOOG K9476. If they dont clean up really good I would replace them. OEM cost around $28 to $31. Its the same one thats used on the Maxima. 54325-21000 - Nissan BEARING-STRUT Cheers. Chas

Good to hear you got it working better Mike. The reason it returns from 5th/reverse is stronger is because the way the groove in the selector shaft (pos 18 in my post#5 and your post #14) is made. The groove has a shape angle on one side and the other side is half that. That gives you the strong push out on the 5Th/reverse line. There is another thread on this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/48693-shifter-return-spring.html If you look in post#11 you will see the groove Im talking about and the two differant shoulders which produce the strong or weaker return. Its doing what it should be doing. 1st/2nd is always softer. To make the detent stronger you could try to shorten the spring and compensate length with washers. There is room in the plunger and nut so you could experiment with the old spring. This will make the 5th/reverse also a lot harder. Chas

The timing on mine is 10 deg BTDC @ 800rpm for californian spec. and 7 deg BTDC when warm for Fed model. Dont know if that will be optimal setting for your setup, but its a place to start. You can download a copy of the FSM for your model at XenonS30. It has all the info in the second chapter under ET (Engine Tune). Chas

Chris, Just one word: Brilliant!

Good write up Dave. It would be a good addition to the Technical Articles. Chas

Dan. This thread is a great read and a tribute to the awesome work you are doing. The contrast between what it was in post #1 and now with the primer in post #69 is just awesome. Cheers chas

Thats a neat flex pipe Jeff. It would be interesting to see how it holds up. I agree with you on the dial indicator. You will regret going cheap on it, I did. Ended up tossing it in the garbage and spending the extra for a good Mitutoyo and magnetic foot. Chas

Hi Chris. I had the luck of just catching a glimps of the ratchet and bolt on the ground when I was reversing out of the driveway. It was a "WHat is that doing there. Oh sh#t:stupid:" moment after changing vavle stem seals. Its amazing how those things can fall on the ground and not make any clunk sound. You certainly are not the only one. Your Z looks really clean and neat. Like the colour. You have done a top job on it. Something to be proud of and now its time to enjoy it:cool: Keep the photos coming Chas

Im with Zedyone Kenobi on the tyres. Specially the photo nr 8 in post #30. It might be just the gen gapLOL Car looks great:cool:. You have done a great job. Keep the photos coming.

Hi zKars. Yer, I was doing my best not to sound like some out of cotrol butcher. My Z's rotors came out quiet easy, but I had a 1971 Escort which would let go no matter what. Ended up heating the rotors to dull red and flogging the crape out of them. They were stuff anyway and I had new ones ready. Bojanglez. Hope you dont go through the same routine. PS: sounds like you dont have the FSM. You can get it here: XenonS30 Chas

It should come out with a good tap. Use two blocks of wood to support the disc and another to protect the hub when you tap it out. If its not too corroded, you could try a screwdriver between the mating surfaces and work around until they come apart.

Zed is right. Sounds like you are trying to remove the rotor before removing the disc hub from the car. Its held onto the hub with four bolts from the rear. You can't access them with the dust shieldis still in place. It would be handy if you have somesort ofbench vice to work with. The bolts can be pretty tight. Front wheel bearings are easy to replace and the FSM is a good guide to follow. The back wheelbearing are a differant story and requiremore specilized equipment to press the bearing off and on. Make sure you clean the PB blaster off real good before installing the new calipers. You dont want that stuff getting on the new brake pads. Chas

Hi Red, Welcome back. Sounds like you have a good plan for your project. Now to just find it. Im have a 280Z and planning to upgrade to the FS5W71C and a R200 LSD out of a 300ZX. I found a good transmission and planning on fitting it next winter. That might be worth investigating for your project. Goodluck hunting. Chas

Bearing collar is a common issue and easily made. Specially when the tranny is not original. I dont think the serial number is year related. I have a close ratio 5 speed in my 280Z that came out of a ZX and it has serial number # 7356248. Don't know which year ZX it was though. This 5 speed was not made in 1973. Chas

He might have done one side first and realised there just aint that much movement with standard springs and insulator:stupid:. Made a mess of the strut tower, which is a shame. The rest of the car looks great. The slots don't extend all the way to the original holes, but they are close. If you don't get it repaired or at least plates welded in the slots, it might haunt you later. That depends on how hard you drive the car.