EuroDat

Grats Chris. You finally got the bugger going;). No real "That it" answer, but more a combination of things which make it harder to diagnose. Now you can enjoy it before the summer is over:cool:

Sounds like your fuel supply in the carby is blocked up with grud. If you have not worked on SU type carbys before, you might want to find someone who knows them. If your up for a challenge, you can download the FSM and study that for a while and go from there. XenonS30 This is what they call a flat top and known also as emmision carbs. The ealier Z use the round tops. I have never worked on flat tops and they are not popular in the Z world. There will be someone on this forum that plays with them for sure. The Datsun 1200 guys play with them more, but that is a differant model flattop (A14T) so Im told. You have one advantage using one carby, you wont have the problem of getting the two running equal. It will be interesting to see this setup run. Goodluck.

Im wondering why the PO slotted one side and just drilled extra holes in the other. Did you ask the PO about it? Maybe he can explain why he did it like that.

I have never seen a turbo setup like that on a Z. Interesting that it uses the carby manifold. Its hard to beleive the single flat top can provide enough fuel, but that would be a performanc issue and not the problem your having. The ether test points to fuel problem and you are getting fuel "squirting out". If the pressure is oke around 3psi, then I would be looking at the carby. Might be blocked up inside. Chas

Short answer: nope. I dont think UPS will be much cheaper if any. Its not size, its the weight thats the problem. Anything over 20kg and the shipping cost really kill the fun. Then you have the import duties and the 21% tax on all of that. Thats whats worst of all. That $554 has $116 tax on it. At that rate the $50 diff will cost around $750:angry: Thats my frustration and no doubt Barts too. Chas

Hi Posezion, Welcome to the club, its a great source of information and the members are friendly and helpfull. Looking at those two photos the first thing that springs to my mind is: This Zed is going to teach you everything you need to know about restoring a Z. How is it for rust around and under the battery, floor pans and spare wheel well? The panels, hatch and hood can be replaced easily, but the frame and floor is something completly differant. That is quiet a challenge for a first project. Atlantic Z has good tech tips Tech Tips. And you can download a lot of manuals and stuff at Xenon S30 XenonS30 Like olzed, I really had to pay attention watching the video. The car has weber DGV downdrafts which are not performance enhancing. The tripple webers on the table would be the way to go eventually. My advice: read as much as you can before trying anything. Try to make a plan of attack and do little projects at one by one. Its common to start a project and fall into the syndrome "while Im at it I might as well do this as well" and just loss their way and never finish. Goodluck and enjoy. Chas

Hi Tamo, Just home from work and searched around my loft for the old nut and bag the new one came in. Its the same part number and mine is left hand threaded. I took some photo's of the old nut and the label. If you need one I could order it and send it over. Its 22mm high which means it should go as letter material (Fits in mail box) and only cost about €3.00 shipping. Let me know if you need one. Chas

Wow, Thats wierd. I ordered the same part nr. and its absolutly left hand thread. Even says it on the delivery docket in dutch (Linkse draad). It costs €5.87 here. I can ask our dealer if he can check the part nr again. Ordering one here and sending it over would be expensive with shipping costs on top. But if you really need it, I could order one. Chas

I think when winter comes around again, this will be my next project. The results you guys are getting are excellent. Top job and motivating to say the least.

Hi Bart, You can identify your diff by looking at the housing around the side shafts. If it has a flange with 5 M8 bolts holding the seals: its a R180. The R200 doesn't have them. The rear tranverse link with the rear anchors on the control arms will also be straight and not bent downwards like the ones on the R200. An R200 will fit, but you need to change your Mustache bar, front mount and the transverse link. You can get the R200 locally in NL easy, but getting the rest might be a problem. Chas Edit: if you can get one shipped for $200 you should not hesitate. The weight is coming to be your problem.

Zed, I agree, its just my wallet has trouble keeping up with my thirst to learn. On another subject. I still can see why the transmission shifter is so far back (shifter is 5.5" back). Is it a FS5W71C? If so the rear mount is only 1" further back and the shifter is in approx the same place. This would put the rear of the engine in the same place as the L6 engine. The V6 length being roughly three cylinders shorter would shift the centre of gravity to the back.

I think its a 280Z going by the crossmember in front of the radiator and no recess in the rear quarter for the bumpers? Looks in pretty good condition. Do you know the history on the car? Why the PO gave up on his project?

Man, like wtf is wrong with it. For us mere mortals its like 110% If I only had the time, patience and the dedication you have? Looks great like everything else you have done in this thread.

Mmm. That just confirms my fears. It will be a long way down my "to do list" before I start seriously hunting these things down. With these prices someone should be making a replica with stainless steel trim.

Or you could go retro and fit a 240Z choke handle in the console to operate a manual bypass valve

How is the idle now when it warms up?

Once the drive shaft is out its as simple as digging it out with a screwdriver. Dont tap the new seal in with a hammer. That can damage it. Use the old seal or a short length of pvc pipe to protect the new seal when tapping it back in. The seal size is 25/50x11mm.

Looks like a really nice clean body. If the rest of the structure is like the back section, it will be a great project. Keep the photos coming. Chas

FWIW I have changed pinion oil seals on diffs and had mixed results. Whining is a problem and often happens after the pinion re-aligns with the crown wheel. I only had sucess when I did NOT set the pre-load to factory spec. The old bearings are worn and the pinion/crown position is worn to suite. Pre-loading the used pinion bearings will shift the alignment and can cause it to whine. My advice: Note the position of the pinion nut and then remove it. Check that the pinion flange freely moves up & down on the splines. Remove any lock tab burrs on the nut so it will turn freely. Tighten it the original position and check the tension with a tension wrench. It will be a lot less than factory spec. Fit the new flange and pinion seal and use this tension to pre-load the new flange. Its not perfect, but it worked better than factory spec. Chas

Do you mean the mounting points in the chassis? The crossmember and rear engine mount support are removable. These could be modified to suit the V6 without effecting the structure of the car. Goodluck with your project Looking forward to seeing some photos. Chas

Do you have any experience working on diffs. Changing a pinion flange seems easy, but getting bearing pre-load right is not as easy as poeple think on used bearings. You could be fixing a vibration and getting a whining diff in return. It might be easier getting a complete diff. FWIW Chas

Nitrophyl is a trade name from Rogers corporation? The basic rubber is a closed cell NBR rubber (Technical name: Acrylonitrile Butadiene). It also goes under trade names as Nitrile & Buna-N, Nipol & Europrene. Rogers corp does not sell resins. We (where I work) have used them in Gent Belgium, but they require €1200 tooling costs and a minimum order of 250 pieces. That was a special rubber bellow for a high speed shear mixer. The vulcanising process for NBR if not easy for a hobby guru to try. Probably why no one making them... Refab from another larger float could be a possability though. Chas

Took me a while staring at the photos to realise what I was looking at. The ball section is the fixed anchor and the section around it with the two threaded stud holes is the mirror housing. Nice simple fix. End result looks great. How does the swivel action feel compared to original now it has the extra washer? Just wondering if the washer might cause extra movement making it harder to fix position. Chas

I no expert on 280ZX, but maybe the diferent oil pan comes from the ZX model with recirculating ball steering or the powered steering versions?

Zed Thanks for clearing that up. Here its called a "kooi" in dutch, but I meant retainer? Chas