EuroDat

I dont have the old bearings anymore. It was about two years back when I did them, but these part numbers where the same part numbers that was on the bearings that came out. Front inner: LM 67048/010/Q Front outer: LM 11949/910/Q Chas

The front bearings are easy to get local Front inner: ID:31.75 OD:59.131 T:15.875mm SKF P/N: LM 67048/010/Q €12.75 Front outer: ID:19.05. OD:45.237. T:15.494mm SKF P/N: LM 11949/910/Q €9.75 Seal 48/62x6mm Nissan part 40232-A0101 €6.49 The rear are special? I have seen then in kits for around $70.00 on ebay, but then you have the shipping to deal with. Best price I can find is Z Parts centre from Jan Rozendaal here in Nederland. See link: Z Parts Centre :: 240-260-280Z rear wheel bearing kit Chas

Looking at the photos, the second photo helps a lot btw, I would look for another 5spd transmission. Or at least pull it apart before ordering any parts. If its beyond repair you can spend the money on a recon unit or another tranny. It looks very much like a bearing race and my guess is its from the main bearing in the adapter plate or the bearing on the input shaft. Going by the photos they are the only bearings big enough for that race. The other bearings are probably not much better. The races can break up when small pieces of metal get into the bearings and the balls push them out the side destroying the race.

If its leaking into the booster, then it will be coming from the MC rear reservoir. Hls30guru stated the "MC front" which I presume is the front of the MC for the rear brakes. In that case I would be looking at the rear wheel cylinders and go from there. The front brakes will use fluid when the pads wear, but the back brakes wont because they return to original position when released. Brake shoes wear is mechancally corrected by an adjusting screw when you use the hand brake. Can you explain what was involed when you did your 30 minute test? If you are just pushing down the brake pedal without the engine to provide vacuum assist, you probably wont get it to leak. Chas

Hi, you can find the EFI bible here XenonS30 Its down in the "Other Guide" section http://www.xenons30.com/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Chas

Thats a bumer, at least you found the source of your vibration. When I did my suspension rebuild 2 years ago I change out all the wear parts. New wheelberaings + seals, caliper seals and pistons, ball joints, tie-rod ends, top strut nsulators and shocks along with all the PU bushings. The rear wheel bearings and spindle pins are a pain in the butt to change. Theses cars are old and require more attention to keepthem going, but thats part of the fun IMO. If you have not found a water pump yet, you can order one here: Z Parts Centre :: 240-260-280-280ZX water pump Goodluck with the repairs Chas

I think mine is the same. Can't see much because its covered by the pulley. The recessed areas seem the same and I can just make out the ridged section, but could not see the GMB stamp because of the pulley. I wonder what GMB means. Maybe Nissan had contracted manufacures to make these or its aftermaket? Chas

I have a 280Z 1977 whish is probably the same. It uses screws (philips head with a thin metal pressed washer) to hold the top of the taillight panels. Thats the plastic inside panel and the outside surrounds and taillight plate. Chas

Doesn't look OEM to me. All the water pumps I have seen have a recessed (thinner section) area around the bolts. Where your bolts are at the same height as the pump body. If you know what I mean... Looks like some sort of aftermaket unit. Chas

Well said, Blue. Like they say; You pay for what you get.... Chas

Hi Bart, My Z has Hyperflex PU bushings from Energysuspension and I am happy with the results. The ride is a little harder, but it handles better. If you order from them, you will need to tell them the size of your sway bar for the two chassis insulators. They are not in the kit. $47.00 shipping and €36.00 dutch duties & taxes. Energy Suspension 7.18101 HyperFlex Master Kit Chas

Hi Niels, Nice to be making progress again. Can't see it in the photos, but I trust you are bagging all the small parts for later. It all looks logical now, but six to twelve months down the track you'll be scratching your head wonder which bolts,screws do I use the fit that??? Chas

You think your front pulley slipped. I had that happen and found TDC by measuring the nr1 piston depth. The "stick" method it too ball park figure for checking timing. To find TDC accuratly I punched the guts out of an old spark plug and welded a section of rond steel (section of 8mm bolt shank) into it. Fit it in nr1 spark plug and gently turn engine by hand until the piston touches it. Mark the pulley and then remove the plug. Turn the engine past TDC and fit plug agaiin. Turn engine backwards until it touches plug and mark the pulley. Exactly in the middle between these two marks is TDC. Then you can check timing. Chas

I agree with Leon. You have good compression on the other cylinders which would make it worth while investigating the cause before looking at a new engine. I wouldnt give up on the L24 just yet. Check the valve clearances and see if the problem is solved. If not you can do a leak down test to determine where its leaking. If you need help doing it, just ask. Goodluck Chas

Check out the thread from Ben's Z. Here is the link to the posthttp://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/46890-my-engine-build.html Ben posted photos of his engine bay. You can see the bracket and hose in the first and second photos in post #20. Pacton's offer sounds like a great deal if your looking at keeping the "origin" look. Chas

Good point Leon. I think the Light weight flywheel should be higher on the list. That just my opinion. I lightened mine when I done the transmission and it improved response a lot. Doesnt do anything for horsepower, but that wasnt what I was after. Chas

I think their claim is accurate "Tests have shown increases in horsepower by as much as 9% at the rear wheels, and cuts in 0-60 times by .5 seconds.". They just forgot to mention they also installed better injectors, mild cam, good flowing exhaust, larger AFM and sport air cleaner. Jokes aside. One thing I have learnt about the L-Jetronic system. It doesnt like being modified to gain more horsepower. Just trying to keep these old systems at factory spec is a challenge. If you did change it, you would probably want to change the AFM to a toyota cressida. Hard to believe you would get 9% at the engine as for the rear wheels?? Thats a big improvement for just a throttle body. I think I would spend my money on a decent matched set of injectors and getting the wiring up to spec and the thermo temp mod. Chas

Just looking through the links and found my photo of the centering detent. If you look in the "Transmission ID thread in post 10 I posted some photos. In the second last photo you can see a container. The centering detent is just visable in the photo. Chas

Now reading this, you may have a problem (weak springs) in both the popet detents and the centering detent. The springs dont cost much. Less than €12.00 you have all four. In the states they are probably cheaper. The centering detent is easy to replace. Mine had very little tension when I unscrewed the cap nut. I could easly start it by hand to get it back in. The new spring needed a lot more pressure to get it started. The popet detents on the selectors are a bit more of a challenge. The two side detents are the "easiest" to remove. Just be carefull not to lose the ball. Its about 6mm in diameter if I remember correctly. The lowest of the twoo side plugs is for the fifth/reverse action. There is a third one On top. This one will be hard to get to with the transmission in the car. You will need a paper clip of such to hook the spring out. Getting it back in will be a PITA considering the space (or lack of it) you have to work in. You could try just changing the bottom one first and see what the difference is. That and the centering detent should help solve your problem a lot. While your at it, you can change the gear lever bushings. That helps tighten up the lever and gives you better control. They are still avaiable a Nissan. 2x 32855-H1010 (Pos#31) €3.41ea 1x 32861-N4200 (Pos#32) €3.67 Chas

Places to take a closer look are: 1: Brake switch under the MC. Depends on which model S30 you have several types of Brake Switch. The O-rings can leak. Sometimes leak through the switch o-ring. Its also behind a heat shield which makes it hard to get a good view. 2: proportioning valve can leak from the o-ring. Its located on the firewall on the 280Z and behind the diff on the 240Z 3: wheel cylinders. Check the inside of the wheels and the backing plate for fluid and while your there, check the hoses for cracks and age. 4: check the brake lines where they go through the rubber insulators along the chasis. The rubber is very old and hard. It can rub through the brake line. Goodluck finding your leak. Chas

Hi Guys, LeonV ran a thread a month or so ago about the differences in the 5 speeds trannys. Can't find it now on my phone. It didn't cover the reverse lock out (Gizmo), but there are enough good photos to see which one you have. The early model doesnt have the reverse lockt out which means the detents play a big roll keeping it out of reverse. If the popet springs pushing these ball checks are weak it will easily slide through to reverse. See POS#9 in the drawing I posted. I changed my last year and the gear lever feels like new. Pitty the rest of the tranny is crape:disappoin Chas

Hi Mike, If you are having problems hitting reverse, the spring in your photo is not the problem. I would look at the "Ball checks" and "Popet springs" in the middle section of the transmission. The two on the side can be removed while in the car. The one on top is not so easy. I have never tried to get them out while its still in the car. Maybe someone has done it and can share their experience? The springs are POS#9 in the drawing. The spring you are pointing to is used to centre the gear stick. If you push it left or right it will re-center using this spring. Its easy to remove with the transmission in the car. The bolt is a cap and the spring fits into a cap with a flat tab about 3mm wide, 16mm long. That tab fit in a V section which gives it the centering action. Chas Link to Carpartsmanual give a good overview of the springs and such. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionControl/5Speed/tabid/1718/Default.aspx

You can still get them from Nissan. 12 pieces; Valve oil seal. Nissan Part nr: 13207-81W00. Here they cost 3,00 euro/each Cheers Chas

Grats with your birthday. Cool gift

This is an interesting web utility to try different combo's. Engine Design Utility