EuroDat

Welcome to the club. You can search for plenty of info in the forum. If its not there members are always willing to help. Goodluck with your project and enjoy the ride:D Chas

The only difference I know about the carburetors is the carburetor type: HJG 46W-8 for manual and HJG 46W-9 for the auto cars. I dont know if those numbers are stamped anywhere on the carbs though.

Like the work on your hand brake cable. Looks good. Thats a good idea to change the diff seals. Its so easy now you have it out of the car. If the pinion seal isnt leaking dont do anything to it. Changing that can though the pinion/crownwheel geomentry off and that can cause the diff to whine. There are steps you can take to try and minimize the risk,but its best to leave it alone.

I thought that might be your problem. Good to hear you solved it.

12teeth? I didnt know the spring had that much tension. Willoughby's tips are a good idea. I would use the drink can and string test to check the spring. 12 teeth sounds like it might be binding or something like that. Your lucky you had a compatable car to swap parts, that made it easy to eliminate possible problems.

Hi Bart, Try a search on valve clearence. There was a thread just a couple of weeks ago about this same problem Chas

The temp sensor mod is used to correct ECU drift. All the old ECU's have it to some degree and it could be whats causing your problem if combined with E85 fuel. Having said that, if you do the ECU swap and it doesnt fix it. The temp sensor mod will probably improve it, but you are then fixing a symptom and not the cause. Something is telling the ECU to use less fuel and your telling it to use more. On a different note: We have a couple of old process plants using old ABB Bailey Network 90 control systems. The parts are NLA and good spares are hard to find. We were having problems with drift. We had spares, so we vacuumed all the dust off and decided to clean them with ultra purified water. Literally dropped them in a bucket of water and then dried them in an oven for 8 hrs at 50degC. They have never worked better. The dust gets in and changes the resistance which causes drift. "Washing" them solved this problem. I have done this on mobile phones. My sons phone has been through the washing machine twice and this saved it. If I had a spare ECU, I would consider trying it. Even though it has worked on 16 of these ABB units without fail, I am still reluctant to try it on my ECU. Just cant get use to the idea of dropping it in water.

Wow, thats a real bummer after all that good work you have done. It must be a painfull decision to make, but I can understand your reasoning. Chas

Hi Bart, I agree with Zedyone. 10W-30 or 15W-40 in the summer, but 20W-50 is too think IMO. I suggest an oil with ZDDP. It not in all the oils these day, but that is what the engines had when they came out. This is a post fromanother thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/47802-synthetic-oil-change-interval.html When the Z's first came out, oil had ZDDP (zinc). That is greatly reduced in new oils, but still availably in Valvoline VR1 en Mobile 1. The zinc helps protect old engines. They were designed for ZDDP before the EPA cracked down on emmisions in the 80's. http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf Chas

Neat work you are doing E-tek. Looking forward to seeing the finished car.

Hi Jeff, Thats for the imput. Ill make the changes to the N42 head info. I have a 5/77 with a N47. It has an internal oiled cam. Most of the time I spent since last update was on the E88 heads and the manifolds. Still needs work down this end of the line. I found some info about the carbs, but its hard to find good data showing when the HJG went from 4 to 3 screwed domes and when the flat tops HMB started. I found a parts list for the series I, II & III carbs. The front and back are identical in the series I, but after that they changed the designed so the carbs are different from each other. That means you have at least a 4 screwed dome model and two 3 screwed models for the front and back carb. Mmmm.

Bums me out too, Ive spent in the area of $1500 in the last 18 months and never received a discount.

Updated several sections. E88 heads and manifold data has been improved, still needs some work though. If anyone sees something thats not right, I would appreciate it. The problem I have with the internet. There is so much info out there, but a lot of it is just inaccurate or unclear and based on what poeple think is right. I try to get info from brochures, manuals or sources backed by other "reliable" leads. Chas L-Engine Timeline Rev2.pdf

In the Netherlands we only need a pink slip (APK) every two years for old timers. All cars before 1987 were road tax exempt, but the government saw a chance to earn €€€ and they are starting to change the rules:disappoin Bart is right about the inspectors being rough on the cars. The last inspection I had done, the mechanic damaged the ball joint rubber on my left front wheel. Lukily I stayed with him for the inspection, but too late to stop him doing that on the first joint he tested. Told him if he keeps that up Ill use that pinch bar on him. I wont be using him again. Chas

I thought I was quoting the FSM for the 280Z??

Hi Bart, I dont know how you plan to bleed the brakes but FWIW. After rebuiding my the calipers, replacing the wheel cylinders, shoes and pads I used a self made vacuum system with a small tank and a water vacuum cleaner to draw the brake fluid through the system. First apply the handbrake a couple of times to adjust the rear brakes. That way I didnt have to push the pedal to the floor and damage the mastercylinder rubber cups. The master cylinder is generally toast after that. The cups get damaged when they go over the corroded bore. If it has not been replaced in the last couple of years, the chances are it will be corroded. I did this about 18 months ago and the master cylinder worked good. Im now in the process of rebuilding the brake switch and proportioning valve. Pulled the M/C apart and it was really badly corroded inside. It was so bad, when I pushed it in all the way in it didnt come back. It was stuck. I have ordered a new one from blackdragon, waiting for it to come in. Chas

There is a thread on the aluminium brake drums. They are still available, but they are getting hard to find. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/48550-new-source-s30-aluminum-brake-drums.html Datsunparts.com Partnumber 2550 Datsun Z Car 70 - 78 & 510 68 - 73 Rear Aluminun Finned Brake Drum Chas

My 280z is 32.67in (830mm) from center hole to center hole. It looks like the only difference is in the trimmings. The braces I have seen are adjustable and I would expect they would accomadate the 1/3in diffenence mentioned in the thread.

I am planning doing a 240z taillight mod on my 280z. After reading this thread, I think I need to spend a lot more time fitting the lights and make sure everything is sealed correctly. Goodluck with your dag BGM. Its sad to see him like that:( Chas

I remember years ago, I did a Holden Monaro and had to order thinner circlips. They made then in different thicknesses for this same tolerance problem. The u-joint in my Z had zerk nipples and a set of plugs. I greased it and fitted the plugs. You could use allen key grumb screws to do the same.

Looking good now its back together. Sounds like you might have a problem with your door hinges. If you open the door so it just clears the car, you can try move it up and down to check play in the hinges. Thats a bummer with the turn signal unit. They can be hard to find in good condition. Gooluck on the final touches

Looking forward to seeing the photos.

Its a bit hard to judge the height difference on the photo. The spider also has a lot to do with the total distance. If you do try to mount them again, you should push the cup through just enough to get the circlip on. Then press him back using the other cap until you can get that circlip on. To push it back you can use somes blocks to support the yoke or the free ends of the spider cross (with caps on to protect the spider from damage) and something round to go over the cap. A socket will do the job, but it needs to be a little bigger than the cap. That way you can press that cap back to seat the circlip and free up the spider. If that doesnt work, there is something wrong with the sizes or the yoke is "crushed". It takes a lot of force to crush it together, but with a press you could be possible and maybe not realise it. You can check that with with your calipers to see if they are all the same and the edges are parrallel. Goodluck Chas

Im not sure what your measuring exactly. The critical distance is between the outer circlip edges, but the circlip must be hard against the inside edge of the groove. Having said that its not that easy to measure accuratly. The groove has tolerences so its important the circlip is sitting in the right place and the caps are sitting tight when you take measurements. I have changed many u-joints on diffenent cars and they are mostly tight after mounting. You need to push them tightly together to get the circlips in. Once you have done that its simply a case of pressing them back against the circlip. They should work freely then. Its also important to clean the surface where the circlip contacts, but seeing you project so far I doubt that is the problem. Your project is coming along real fine. Looking good. Goodluck Chas

Hi Bart, The engine bay is cleaning up very nicly. Goodluck with the inspection next week Chas