EuroDat

Although I didnt know him personally, I enjoyed readings the comments Enrique gave on this forum. Enrique was the gentle current that flowed through some of the turbulent threads that past by my computer screen. The link is post 46 says it all. He will be missed. My sincere regards to his family and friends

Thats a top job your doing and a lot of work. Goodluck with it. Chas

I will amend the tittle in the next update. I have also started gathering info on the UK and European models. Chas

A quick update. L-Engine Timeline Rev1.pdf

The part numbers you are quoting dont match the original E-Fast system. The E-Fast system is quoting 12279-21003, 12279-21010 and 12279-R4600. The number 12279-R4600 was changed to 12279-R4601.

Hi HS30-H, You are not being harsh and you are totally right pointing out that this list covers the north american market. Before I started, I searched this forum and others for similar timelines. The biggest problem I notice with other attempts is the enormous task getting all the information. In north america alone you have the differences between the Californian, Fed and Canadian models. The Australian and European markets kept the 260z through to the 280zx came along and also retained leaded fuel. I know so little about the Japanese market, I woulnt know where to begin. This is for the american market and it wouldnt work for different market. I was planning timelines for the different markets. You could do it that way and retain some control over the layout without making in unreadable. In the end I had to start somewhere and the american market was the "easiest" for gathering information. The plan was to book small sucesses and continue to build on that instead of taking on everything at once and then crash and burn. I never expected to finish this in a couple of weeks. I am in the Netherlands, but there are not that many original dutch Zs still running here. I think IMHO most of the cars here come from the states. My car is also an import. Cheers Chas

Thanks for the feedback. Plenty of info on the heads. I didnt know there are 3 versions of the E88 or 2 of the N47 for that matter. The Z is always amazing me. You think you know a lot and then you realise you dont know that much after all. I will include a line for exhaust manifolds, but dont know where the W48 fits in? My goal is to make a chart we can all use for searching and matching parts and post it in the technical articles. Ill post an update tonight (CET).

Hey Hardway, I had a lot of trouble with PU bushes on my 280Z. They made the tension rod very stiff and steered badly over bumps. Ended upchanging to the TC kit. Since then I have seen the PU bushes with grooves around the outside like your AC bushes in the photo. Looks like they improved the design since then. Just my 2 cents

Hi all, I have been playing with a table listing "all" the variations of the L-series engine in the S30 and S130 model range. I started it for myself to try and get a better understanding of when and what changed. The table (Timeline) is by no means complete. If anyone has any information or finds any errors I would like to hear it. Up to now its just information I have read in forums of manuals over the years. Now Im trying to fill the gaps. It looks like geezer tried to make a similar Timeline before. Im want to try and do the engine, thats a big enough undertaking. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/zcar-history-forum/24478-timeline-chart.html Thanks for any help. L-Engine Timeline.pdf

In the Tech Articles you will find a write up on this mod for the 240z 69 - 73 without Intermittent wipers. Classic Zcar Club - Honda Wiper Motor Upgrade for the 240Z If you guys have any extra hints and it looks like you do, would be nice to post them in the comments section of the tech article. It could help others in the future. A little bit off track here but my wipers were not much chop. When I pulled them apart I found old hard O-rings in the joints (instead of the lubricated felt washer). The O-Ring was so hard it was binding it all up. You can replace them with felt used for the battery terminal posts. That will fit nicely. The shafts through the anchor points where the wiper arms connect were all dried up and tight. Cleaned it all up and greased it again. It now works like a dream. Its probably not as good as new, but its a hell of a lot better than what it was and Im happy.

Thats a great document explaining bolt torque specs. Added it to my collection. Thanks a lot:classic: Ive always used an old workshop manual by Tom Monroe for bolts where I couldnt find the tension in the FSM. It has a table in the back with most of the figures. Although not as comprehensive.

If you are thinking of going over to the 240z bumpers. My choice would be option 5. I toyed with the idea of fitting the 240z valences but it was a lot of work to get them to fit. Easiest mod it to remove the 280z valences and center panel, fit 240z bumper and 240z airdam with the 240z turn signals. Then its just deciding what to do with the 280z turnsignals and grill. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48611-fitting-240z-bumpers-valences-280z.html Tamo3 also has a thread on fitting the 240z airdam

I hope thats not the 100miles from the PO's house to your garageLOL

The spindle pin should not turn. Its fixed by the cotter pin a little off from the centre. To replace the lower control arm bushes you need to remove the spindle pins.

Im a bit the same here. I am currently working on the brakes and front bumper, but that is mostly on the floor. I have a heater, but it doesnt do much to warm up the floor. Think I ll wait till it warms up a bit.

It sounds like air in your system. I think its the position of your calipers. I would checks Zed Head's tips. Reinstalling the calipers with brake lines attached can be a PITA, but its the only sure way of getting the air out.

If you doing the strut bearings you might want to check the strut boots. They would be probably in worse condition than the steering rack boots. Motorsport! Shock Boot, 74-78 260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts If you do anything to the master cylinder, replace it. I think you can still get the rubber cup kits, but at $95 its not worth the hassle. Black Dragon Automotive - Parts & Accessories for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 I would also clean the brake switch and the proportioning valve. They get pretty gummed up over the years and probably not working like they should. The cups in the Proportioning valve are NLA so be carefull dismantling it. You can get the o-rings easy enough. Just make sure the o-rings are made of EPDM rubber material. Dont use Viton or NBR rubber. It doesnt go good with brake fluid.

I searched through my photos, but couldnt find much on the old transmission. My 280Z also had one out of a 280ZX. It was one of those el-cheapo recon jobs the PO had fitted and was probably not much better than the original. They just replaced the standard bearings and a couple of seals. I was planning to rebuild but after pulling it apart, decided to go for a 71C. Turned into one of those "While Im at it projects" In the photo Trans3 you can see the detent plunger with spring and 19mm cap nut in the container. Trans3 shows the 5th gear bearing sleeve, but the pitting doesn't show up very well. It was whinning and clunking in every gear but 4th. My advice: Be carefull buying reconditioned transmissions. Unless you know its history. You could get something that will only last 20 - 30k miles. Chas

Measuring the offset is easy. You just need a straight edge and a tape measure. A straight edge can simply be a piece of wood long enough so sits on the rim and doesnt sit on tyre wall. Just measure the back rim to the hub mount with the straight edge. Turn the wheel over and measure through the stud holes or centre cap the front side. If you have no difference, then you have zero offset. If the back figure is higher, then you have positive offset +.... Front side higher then you have a negative offset -.... Remember you have to divide the difference to get the offset value. To give you an example: My wheels 14"x6" have a back rim measurement of 170mm and front are 95mm. Offset is 170-95/2 = 37.5mm. Because the back is the larger number, its positive offset. They are actually +38mm. Here is a thread with a good sketch showing how and what to measure. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/general-modification/47065-ideal-wheel-size-offset-if-running-zg-flares.html Chas

You could read up on this thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/47597-77-280z-water-temp-sensor-issue-runs-very-rough.html Chas

You should get the rims sorted out before going any further. You dont mention the offset difference between the rims, but some can have 38mm and others 0 mm. That would muck the geomentry up a lot and cause the car to react like you are experiencing under throttle no-throttle conditions. Even getting some spacer plates made to get them all even would be a good start. You can then test them to check if its better. I would start looking for a matched set for a perminent solution. Chas

Zed's post is spot-on. I couldnt explain it any better. I think there is nothing wrong with your FPR. Its doing exactly what it should do and that is maintaining 36psi differential pressure over the injector at all times when the fuel pump is running. If you think your car is running lean, you can have that tested and adjust the mixture with a variable resistor in temperature sensor for the EFI system. See link for details on how its done. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html Chas

I hope he is not chewing on the wiring harness in front of the radiator. Otherwise your next RDW inspection will be: Sorry but now your front lights dont work....

Its was well worth the 17months you put into it. The Z looks Great. Gratz. Chas

The four items to the left are for the reverse lock out. They are what you will find in your transmission. The other parts on the right are for the interlock and neutral detent. They are located in the iron plate where the front and rear section bolt toegether. Chas