EuroDat

I was quoting my FS5W71C transmission, its a different system with two 27mm plugs. I just checked my old FS5W71B transmission. It has a 19mm plug and I could remove it and compress the spring with my hand to start the threads again. These things dont get much oil lubrication and become sticky. Thats probably your problem. Ring spanner. I think you guys call them wrench? See link Catalogue Chas

When I did mine the tension was a lot less. I cant remember was the tension was exactly, but it was less than half of what the Fsm stated. If the tension is very low, than the bearings a worn. You could try setting the tension to 30ft/lbs and see if its quiet. Give youself time to work out what to do. Changing the bearings is the easy part. If you dont have the height gauge to determine the shimes for the new bearings you have the adjust it using the crownwheel/pinion contact paterns. Reading and understanding the contact paterns is not easy and if you havent done it before it can take a lot of hit and miss to get it right. A transmission shop is set up for this. If the bearings are worn to the point that they require replacement, then I would bring it to a shop to get it done. Chas

You can get to it from underneath. Its a bit of a tight fit between the exhaust and the transmission tunnel. You can see it through the floor when you remove the console, but its very hard to get your hand to it from there. The springs can be replaced with the transmission n the car, but fitting the plug with good springs is a bit of a hassle. Sounds like the springs have collapsed. You will need a 28mm spanner. Mine was FT when I did my transmission so I would use a ring spanner. Goodluck Chas

I always thought the L28 had the reinforced mounts from day one. I have also seen them on an early 76 280Z. Chas

I second that. Ive decided to stop looking, put my tunnel vision glasses on and try to finish what I started.

These are the numbers for the pinion bearings: 38120-61000 38120-13201 38335-N3200 Its not a job to be taken lightly. I would consider getting it done by a specialist. Chas

You should treat it with phospheric acid "fosfurzuur". You can find it in most hobby beer brewing shops and chemical stores. Hulpstoffen We use it at work to clean stainless. Use about 45,000 litres a year. Works great. That and acetic acid "azijnzuur". Chas

Hoi Bart, Goodluck with the reapairs and the RDW. Chas

That was back in the Hunter Valley, Australia where I grew up. Ive been in the Netherlands off and on since the early nineties.

Thats a really neat job you have done on the dash. The skyline badge just tops off a perfect job.

When it heats up it might be tight then. Could be just loose when its cold. They heat up red hot for emmisions which will make them expand. Pulling them out would make the exhaust port pretty ragged. That probably wouldnt help flow at all. I have a N47 on my L28. These heads are known for cracking, but the exhaust liners in mine were tight last I checked.

It looked good just welded, now its painted black its WOW Great job your doing. Cheers Chas

I have to agree with rcb280z. I dont want to repaet it all, but it has to be in the drive line geomentry. Something is effecting all the alignment under throttle. Take it to a drive line shop and let them look at it. Good luck

The website says "The colours depicted are also for guidance only. The displayed colour will depend on your monitor and browser" I hope so, it looks a lot darker than what my engine is painted. Chas

I found a couple of photos of the old workshop and some of the shovel working at the small face. The big drag line was in the other pit. Ill try and dig up some photo's of that. I started my apprenticeship with the company. It was a great time. The belly dumpers were the best. Nothing like getting a "empty" 60ton belly dumper side ways. The cat dump trucks were down right dangerous if tried anything like that.

Looks like the 240Z air dam will fit and cover the front cross member on the 280Z. The cross member is about 9" under the bumper. I took some phots, but the angle is deceiving. The measurements are: From the bottom edge of the hood to top of bumper is 10cm (4") Botom edge of bumper to lowest edge of the cross member is 22cm (8.7")

I envy you. I could ride my bike around The Netherlands and probably wouldnt find as much as you did in the couple of streets you scanned. Its just simply a shortage of space. People send them to the crusher and if they have the space to leave them sitting in the backyard, they are exposed to snow and ice every winter and need I say more...

I would go with rcb280z advice. It really sounds like the geometry in the suspension is changing when its under power and coasting. There must be something loose or flexing a lot to cause it. Start with the basics, jack the wheels and give them a shake and go from there.

I didnt know the OEM bushes were stil availabe. I installed urethane and it increased the drivetrain noise a lot. I expected the ride to harden and the noise to increase, but I think a lot comes from the mustache bar. If I could do it again I think I would leave the mustache bar alone.

Thanks tamo, Ill measure my crossmember today. The right side valence is now stripped and mounted. They were painted white then repaited white and someone painted them blue. Took three goes with the paint stripper to get them cleaned back to bare metal. The centre section is completly different to the 280z and will not fit because of the cross member. I dont wont to do any cutting or modify the chasis in any way. Everything Im doing in bolt on and reversable. Once I work out the height issue I can order an airdam and fabricate the brackets to hold it all together.

I have read somewhere that you can use the later rotors on the 240z but the 240z type is not suitable for the later models. I have no idea why? Maybe someone here can explain it. Brambo has a drawing for the 260z - 280z rotor Automotive Aftermarket Catalog - MyCarParts but they dont stock the 240z model anymore. Maybe you can compare this the your original rotor? It could be in the hub depth or hub diameter where the differances are. You could download the 240z fsm from http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html to get the specs and compare it with the brambo image.

Hey steve, Gratz on your website. Looking good:cool:. I admire the effort you have put into it. Cheers Chas

Maybe I didnt explain it clearly. I learnt this from a mechanic in the coal mines working on belly dumpers and 789 cat rrucks. He was a bit of a bush mechanic and learnt to be a mechanic in the vietnam war. If you use the volt meter over a terminal it will read zero until current travels through it and it has resistance (potential differance). Example: A bad battery terminal. If you test with one probe on the battery post and one on the outside of the clamp it will read zero volts. When you start the engine its reads 3 volts. There is a resistance in the terminal connection. You can use this method to check all the wiring including the grounds. I found a couple of my bad grounds this way. One probe on the negative post and one on the body ground connection (not the bolt, use the ring the cable is connected to). Any voltage reading while your testing the lights ground with lights on then you have resistance in the ground connection. You can check the starter solenoid this way as well. Hold the probes on both terminals. It will read battery voltage. Get someone to start the engine. While cranking it should drop to zero voltage. An easy check for carboned contacts in the starter. Chas

Out of curiosity I looked it up in the E-fast Nissan cat. The catalogue says 40206-E4100 is replaced by 40206-E4101. Its probably the same just improvements over the years.

The rotors on the 240Z upto 07/74 had part number 40206-E4100. After 08/74 they had 40206-E4101. The E4101 was later changed to 40206-N3100. The original numbers are not the same, but most aftermarket sellers claim rotors for 240, 260 and 280Z.