EuroDat

It must of been comman practice. My had the same treatment. AC, slotted wheels and that undercoating treatment.

That is a nice pair of coilovers. I know what you mean about pricing. That stuff can get really pricy. Thats like all the other things Id like to do, but cant justify all that cash to do it. I figure ive got plenty of time to do it bit by bit. My next "bit" will be the 300ZX 71C transmission.

The fuel pump will not flood the engine. The fuel pressure regulator, if working properly, will always keep the pressure at 36psi of less depending on the vacuum in the inlet manifold. If you had 0 pressure it could be a problem with fuel supply to the pump (blockage in tank pick-up) or it could be in your AFM. The AFM supplies power to the pump after the engine has started. Have you checked the problem solving sections in the FSM en the fuel injection manual? Running rich could also be caused by a faulty temp sensor or wiring to the temp sensor. Download the FSM and the 280Z/280ZX Fuel injection guide. Success Chas XenonS30

Its hard to feel if a U-joint is good by hand. The spigots get fine lines in then caused by the needle rollers. This is generally on approx half of the spigot caused by the driving force. The side where to force comes during de-acceleration does not get this that much. The lines can cause noise under strong acceleration. If you have any doubt, I would change them. Check the bearings and the spacers for wear by checking the end play. Clamp the large section of the shaft in a bench vice and used a dial indicator to check the up and down movement. Should be less than 0.1mm. It will be hard to find parts for this. Datsun/Nissan sold the shafts as a complete unit. Only the boots and U-joints were sold apart. I have heard of people swapping half shafts from left to right/right to left. That way the accelerating force is then on the good side of the spigots and balls. Its not my preferred way to fix it. Chas

The problem is often caused by setting the preload to factory specs. This can change the position of the pinion depth and change the patern on the crown. It is only a small amount, but is it enough to cause noise. The extra pressure on the used bearings surfaces can also contribute noise. If you dont get it right it will make noise. IMO If the seal is leaking and you need to change it. Try to remove the original nut without damaging it so you can reuse it or use it to determine to torque required for the new nut. New nut: Note where the old nut position is before you start. After replacing seal, tighten the old nut to the original position and check the tension with a tension wrench. Use that tension on new nut. It will be a little less than factory spec. Factory spec is 137 - 159ft/lb. I have done this and the diff still runs fine with 28k km and no noise. Here is a link to someone who is having exactly this problem. Chas R200 problems after replacing pinion seal - Drivetrain - HybridZ

I dont know, but my 280Z has exactly the same wheels. I always thought they were aftermarket.

The diff looks good once its cleaned up. It looked in good condition before you cleaned it up. I would change the axle seals, they are easy and the stub axles just pop out with a quick jerk. The pinion seal is a completly different story. I wo Uld leave it alone if its not leaking. PS Your project is coming along nicly.

I dont know what the code is, but you can order it at Banzai Motorworks and the shipping bla bla. Dont know the colour code, but I read that Banzai it pretty close to original as it gets. Chas

They look different to what I have seen here in NL. but then again there is not too many original 240Z, 260Z still running here. Most are US import and its not required to change them to get the car through road worthiness inspection.

Thank for clearing that up. I think the bad image is only in the US and probably because it was a stepping stone to the 280Z. Does the 260Z US model use the same HMB 46W carbs? 240Z (US pre 1974) Fuel system: Mechanical fuel pump, twin Hitachi HJG 46W 1.75in SU type carburetors 260Z Fuel system: Mechanical fuel pump, twin Hitachi HMB 46W 1.75in SU-type carburetors Quoted from an article about the australian 240/260Z: Originally, the 240Z was fitted with Hitachi type HJG 46W carburettors, but US federal emmisions controls casued Datsun to change to HMB 46W units in 1973. These carburettors where modified a grand total of five times before the end of 1974. These carburettors where used on all US 240Zs produced after 1973, and on all 260Zs sold worldwide. The emmision carbies where never fitted to Australian deliverd 240Zs. The 260 was sold for only one year in the US, being replaced by the 280Z (basically a 260Z with an injected L-28 engine) as power had been so badly reduced by emmissions controls. The 260Z was still sold everywhere else up till 1978, when it was replaced by the 280ZX. Non-US 260 carburetors proved much less troublesome, but where still temperamental. Chas

It could be the check valve in the pump leaking back to the tank. A simple check would be stop the engine and wait 10-15 minutes. Before starting it remove the air cleaner and use the handle of a screwdriver to open the AFM. Turn key to on (DONT start the engine) let the pump build up pressure. Then remove screwdriver and start engine. If the engine runs normal, then you are getting leak back. If it still run rough, your problem is not in the check valve. Chas

If the PO done it right it should have more power than a 240z. Datsun increased the capacity to 260 the compensate for emmisions. The 260z had the same head with bigger inlet valves. I think the exhaust was the same, but someone will correct me if I wrong here. The worsed thing about the 260z engine was the carbs. They replaced the Hitachi SU carbs with flat tops with the square intake/coke chamber. Commonly called emmision carbs. I dont think anyone plays with them much. Most swap to the Hitachi model. Do you know anything about the cam? Chas

This is a little similar to what I made. KD912 VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR You just need to find some steel strip thick enough so it will not bend when you use it as a lever to compress the spring. Then you need to drill a hole through it so the valve stem can pass through it and release the cleats. This is also an option but can be tight to get in position MST4573 UNIVERSAL OVERHEAD VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR Folow the steps in olzed link. If you use rope to keep the valves up. Turn the engine over until the piston is about 1" from the top. Feed the rope in through the spark plug hole until its full. Turn the motor until the piston is TDC. That will compress the rope and hold the valve firmly in place. Dont forget to tap the spring retainer, on top outer edge, with a soft hammer to release the cleats. Otherwise they wil stick and wont come off. Chas

In europe and aust they dont have a bad rap at all, but we didnt have the regulations like the us. The shape of the bumpers didnt change that much and the model continued through until the 280ZX took over. Here they are worth the same, just are hard to get as the 240Z Chas

I was helping a friend rebuild a transmission and we just put the car on the ground. When we were putting the trolley jack under the work bench we found three circlips. A lot of ahming and arhing and it finnally dawn on us. The circlips held the speedo gear in place on the rear shaft. We had two old ones and perfectly new, never used one. We forgot one:angry: We had to pull the transmission back out again.

Yer, thats it. Its in a thread you had a while back. There are other threads covering this as well. You dont need the special tool. If you are handy you can make one easy. I made (bent) one out of 5mm plate steel with a big hole drilled through it the get the cleats out of the spring retainer. Chas

If the valve seals are worn and hard you can gennerally test it by coasting down a hill with no throttle and the full gas. The coasting will cause high vacuum which will pull in the oil, and full gas will wash it all into the cylinders. The will show up as a puff of blue smoke for a couple of seconds and then stop. The seals can be changed without removing the head. You do need some special tools and rope to keep the valves up. Do a search in the forum. You will find some threads detailing the procedure. Chas

Now I understand. You want to remove the standard bushing in the replacement LCA so you can use your chamber bushes. Easiest way is to heat the outside steel sleeve and LCA section around it. Grap the center sleeve with a pair of vice grips and try to turn it until it gives way. Then pull it out with the rubber. Cut the outer steel sleeve section to get it out. See this link: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/frontcontrolarm/index.html In the instruction he heats the center and burns the rubber out of the outer sleeve which stinks (toxic fumes) and smokes a lot. Goodluck Chas

Not quiet sure what you mean by "push out the old bushing". The one you have in your hand (chamber adjustment bush) is out and the control arm doesnt have any metal sleeve in it. Can you post a photo os what you mean? Makes it a lot clearer. The chamber udjustment bushes come as a complete set. You cant just replace the rubber. Chas

Leon, Thanks for clearing the up. I knew there was a differance, but didnt know it was that big. 5%. With pounds it even worse if you get it mixed up. 1 English pound to 1.6 US lbs.

The plugs are looking better. Looks like your almost there. If you have new injectors, I would use them. Have you checked your AFM? If the spring tension has weakened the ecu will think its getting more air and give more fuel. You can follow these instructions to check it and do some field adjustments. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html If you follow those tips, you can then use a temp. sensor resistor to richen the mixture after making it leaner in second tip. Chas

Im not much of an expert on turbo Z's, but if you not using "high" octane fuel the N42 with flat tops is out of the question. The heads: The N42 is considered the better head because it doesnt have the exhaust port inserts. The P90 & P90A are considered the best flowing heads from all the Z's. I would go for the N42 with dished pistons, but we can still get 98 octane fuel. With 91 octane it might not be the right choice. Chas

You might want to read this thread. John has done reserch on the best settings for the z but its not that simple to get a shop that wants to spend the time getting it right. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/47764-alignment-shops-arghhhh.html Chas

I know how you feel. I just received a taillight from the US. $30,00 which was € 73,65 all up with shipping. Then i had to pay €21,36 tax and €13,00 customs charges:sick: Total €108,50 to get a taillight that cost 30 bucks (€23,25) in the US:angry: Apparently prices wnt up as from 1 january 2013. U verwacht een pakket uit het buitenland? - Houd rekening met inklaringskosten | PostNL Pakketten Chas

They are available at MSA or Dragon Auto. Its a simple way to do minor chamber corrections. Motorsport! Camber Adjustment Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Motorsport! Camber Adjustment Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Chas