EuroDat

My Nissan dealer found one in Japan. He said it was hard to find and he is pretty good at tracking things down. I think whats out there is just old stock. It wont be long until its all gone. Nissan has stopped making them:cry:. This is one of the little gadgets I like about the datsun.

Hi Nils, Im amazed that the front end is in such good condition and the rest badly rusted. It must of had some pretty bad water leaks in the cabin or the PM left that dam sunroof open when he parked it:ermm: Cool website, speedhunters:love: Chas

I do the same thing. Sounds a bit like "hobby bob", but it has always worked for me. I have done 3 sets for 260/280z. The glue is so old that it comes apart pretty easy. Scrapping the old glue out of the groove, once you have the lens out, is a PITA though. I use a sealant very similar to the windscreen sealant to glue them back in. That way you can get then out without breaking them. Dont forget the felt plug in the drain. Chas

Really nice job you have done so far. Look forward to see it progress. Chas

Hi Alyssa & hubby, Welcome to the club. The car looks good in the photo. If you choose a colour other than original. The choice is yours. IMO it doesnt increase value that much, definitely not enough to warrant the colour change. The tranny swap is not that hard. I would go fot the 5sp from the 280zx. Thats the FS5W71B which has the closs ratios and brass 5th gear synchro. Well Enjoy the club and see you around:) Chas

I ordered a complete new unit from Nissan. Once I have it I could make copies of the lens if anybody is interested. Chas

And the winner gets to sell one to me:D. That is if I live that long! Save me the trouble of starting a project Illnever finish.

Normally the E-Fast database shows the new part number and former. I can only find the "former" number. The Nissan dealer pointed me to the 720 truck part number. I was just wondering why Nissan didnt add it to the 240Z - 280Z parts cat. Would have same time searching. Maybe its because it was an option in the Z's?

Found the size of the two o-rings today. The two behing the nuts. Size 16.39x2.21mm (IDxCross section) according to standard AS568-908. The cups are going to be harder to solve if at all.

Thats a darn shame. It sounded promising. Sounds like most my projects. I really like the idea of digitalising the ECU to make it tunable, but thats on hold like so many other "good idea while I am at it" projects. Now working on one thing at a time, being the complete brake system resto. Chas

Just heard mine is on its way. I can pick it up next thursday:D Nissan here says the p/n: 89902 is NLA. I wonder what the difference is between the two part numbers 89902 and 10W00? Maybe one is sivler and the other the gold colour?

Hi Zcurves, Your idea is just what I had in plan. Take to parts to a hydraulic shop and find which o-rings fit best. Then order then in EPDM. Chas

Hi guys, Thanks for the input. Greatly appreciated. I agree, the O-Rings are easy to replace. When I find the sizes, I will post then. Most brake components are EPDM, but Im not sure if its sulpher cured or peroxide cured. Where I work we use a lot of O-Rings and gaskets and our experience with the peroxide variant is better in higher temperature conditions. This company is good for information about rubber compounds. A link to there site Datasheets | O-Ringen They recommend there 559311 compound which is peroxide cured EPDM. My biggest challenge is to find replacement cups. Its difficult to know where to start. I was thinking of trying a brake specialist and looking at what he has that might fit. My goal is to retain the original proportioning valve and not replace then with some aftermarket unit. Trying to keep a bit of original look in the car. Ill keep you posted. Chas

I use to get parts at my local nissan dealer, but he claimed almost everything I wanted was NLA. A workmate pointed me to another dealer. Dave works in the parts service and is a oldtimer freak with his share of old cars. He has built up his own contact network restoring his own car and Ive got to know him well. If he cant get it then I beleive its NLA. Hope he can still get it. Chas

I would be interested in one too. Love to get some tunability on the stock system. If he pulls this off, he wont be superlen he will be SUPERLEN:D Chas

Not yet, I called in today and it wasnt in yet. He did get a message from the warehouse that my brake master cylinder repair kit was on back order. The other parts were on their way. Dave is pretty good at tracking parts down. My friend has a fairlady roadster with SR20DE powerplant. His local Nissan dealer couldnt get some parts for the distributor and Dave found them in Japan. Ill keep you posted. Chas

What he says is ture. They all use the same synchros except the 280zx turbo which is a BW T5. The 5th is a fibre ring (No longer available) which was change to a brass ring in the FS5W71C and its a little smaller in diameter. Chas

The kit from drivetrain is a FS5W71C kit and comes with a bigger bearing for the cluster shaft front bearing. It also doent in clude the reverse idler bearing and all thelock nuts. See this thread for a photo of the bearings http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/47891-noise-trans-clutch-both-video.html Chas

The engine bay looks like it in good condition. A bit dirty but no noticable rust or damage.

That part nr 89904 was for all the Datsuns until 1983 including the 280ZX, but for some reason then they changed the number to 10W00. Just noticed it in your photo's and thought you might be planning to fix it or get a new one. It only cost €25.00 so restoring it is generally a waste of time and if its anything like mine the plastic lens crumbles in your hand if you squeeze it a little.

Nils, If you want a new engine bay inspection light I just ordered one for my 280z. Its still available in the Nissan dealers in NL but under another nr. 26740-10W00. I had a bit of trouble tracking the new number down. Its for the 720 trucks up to 1986. A lot of people think they are NLA because they cant find the older numbers in the system. Chas

I wouldnt mill a bent head. You will most probably break the cam because your constantly bending it everytime it turns a revolution. You need to get it straightened first and then skim the surface. Its better to just fit the bend head and torque it down. The aluminium is flexable enough to follow the block. Then check if the cam turns. This is pretty crude fix, but the head isnt all that crash hot anyway. Chas

24% ahh, dont they realise how much it already cost to restore these carsLOL I try to use sea freight as much as possable. The parcels get knocked about a lot, but it cuts cost a lot. Biggest problem is a lot of E-bayseller only use priority mail at tripple the cost and still takes two to three weeks. PS I pay 21% tax and import duties which start at €7.50

Hi kats, Thanks for your reply on the brake booster. Makes sense when you think about it. I have to get out of thinking in street car mode. The Z432 was build for the purpose of racing. Great info btw. I've learnt a lot about this car on this thread. Chas

I think they where on the 280z from 8/76, but Im not 100% sure of that. Banzai make the fusable links and covers. No one makes the base. Mine was completly melted and crumbled in my hand from old age and heat. I found a used one. Its also melted on one fusable link, but still servicable. The second block is in good condition. If the fusable link terminals develope resistance, they will get very hot and melt the base without blowing the link. Chas Banzai website with links and cover. Banzai Motorworks