EuroDat

I'd love to just have one L28ET long blockLOL

If nothing else was done or changed, I would check the spark plugs. Are they the same as the plugs you replaced or the same type, by this I mean heat range, gap etc? Do you still have the old plugs to complare? You could put them back in and test if it still does it. Running lean can be caused by a number of things: vacuum leaks, low fuel pressure, resistance in connectors in EFI wiring, clogged injector. If it was running good before you changed the plugs, I would start there before testing other systems in the car.

I thought he might. Ive nether met him, but I know a couple of guys that have and found him very helpfull and had no problems with buying parts. The shipping costs and time will be a lot less too. I find a lot of bargins in the US only to pay double the price in shipping costs, import duties and taxes:mad:

Over here there worth a lot more. The F54 block with the N42 head is a good combination. Without knowing the history, oversize bore etc its hard to say what its worth. I have seen them for $150 up to $800 for a L28ET The thing you need to ask yourself is; how much do you want for it? Goodluck with your sale Chas

I agree with carl's post #15 and john's above. Check if its straight and skim it just enough to clean up the surface. You say its shaved. Is it a P90 shaved 80 thou? Doesnt look like it, but im having trouble with the photo on the pad.

Looking at the front struts. Is the new insulator higher than the original? Looks like the spring cap is a little different as well? Are you trying to increase road hight? Its hard to tell, but it looks like it will add about an inch to to hight. Chas

Hi, Love that rotisserie you made. Very inventive. Its heartbreaking when you start digging all the gunk off and find rust underneath. Thats the problem with a half fix and then covering it up. The rust just keep going ever so slowly, but it doesnt stop. Your going about it the right way. Rust wont be a problem when your finished and Ted will be proud of you;)

Hi Wayne, Really appreciate your work on this and everyones input. Cant wait to print it on our plotter tomorrow and hang it up in the garage. Chas

Hi Alan, Great thread and the photo gallery gives great insight into how its built. I have never seen a Z432 in real life. Like kats mentioned in his post, it doesnt have a brake power booster. Is that normal for all the Z432's or an extra weight saving? You would need a heavy foot for braking, thats for sure. Love that engine:D

My car had 32000 miles which I seriously doubt. More like 132000 miles. The wear on parts is also proef of that, unijoints, wheel bearings etc. I wouldnt be suprised if most cars the milage was +100000 or even +200000. Specially if its a daily driver and remember they were a cheap sports car. Lets face it we are not talking about an exotic sports car. Mine has been standing in a shed since 1992, which means it travelled about 9000 miles a year in the period 1977 to 1992. Thats not that much. Chas

The service bullitin on the atlanticz site has a good illustration of the thermostat housing and the sensors positions on different models http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/76sb/1976_280z_S30_Service_Bulletin.pdf Chas

Im rebuilding all the brakes on my 280Z and now I am at the NP-valve (Proportioning valve) and the Brake indicator switch. The parts are ok, but I would like to replace all the seals. The NP-Valve is still availible at Nissan under P/N: 46400-P9200 but it cost $325,00. The Brake fail indicator switch is also only available as a complete unit. Internals are NLA. All I want are the internal seals and o-rings. Does anybody know where you can get the kits these days? Appreciate any help.

Its probably something from the PO. He was probably using a second gauge to check the temp or something like that? Normally its plugged. Looking from the radiator, the top left sensor with a single terminal post is the temp gauge in the car. The other two underneath with the square plug connectors are for the EFI. The brown one (left) is the thermotime switch and the white one (right) is the temp for the EFI fuel mixture control. Chas

Welcome to the club jt. Looking forward to seeing more of your project. Chas

That is a nice blog he has. Why doesnt he become a member, its free and he can share his experience and get/give help if needed? Chas

Try Geoff at Fourways engineering in the UK. He sells a lot of stuff for Zeds. Datsun 240Z | Fourways Engineering Z Car Specialists You canalso try MJP Eastern auto MJP Eastern Auto They are both specialists in datsun But Steves post #3 will be your best option;)

Hi Bart, Welcome to the club. I think you mean "pop rivited". Thats a really nice Z you got. Like you said, they are hard to find in Europe. Everthing thats still on the road comes from the states or its never left the garage in the winter or rainy days. Goodluck with the restoration and those floorpans.

If you are loking for an ECU, there is one on ebay that might be ok. Datsun Z L28 Computer | eBay

I would like to remove my cap. I think the PO glued it according to the instructions, but it doesnt line up to well around the glovebox and the datsun emblem in also half covered. Anyone done this with any sucess? I would like to do the SEM repair method.

Aah the wonders of modern technology.:bulb: Ill have to remember that when I start playing with mine. Im having trouble with injector 3 and 4. Looks like I up for a new set.

Its been a while since you updated this thread I almost forhpgot about it. The engine looks good, cleaning up really well. Is there any part of the car your not working onLOL. I admire your effort and time frame for this rebuild.

Hey Tomohawk, Are you going to take some kind of performance test before you change the AFM? Its pretty crude, but I do a simple test by going full throttle from 60 to 140km/hr in 5th gear and timing it. Taking notes at 80, 100, 120 and graphing it in Excel. Doesnt say how much hp your producing, but it gives you an idea if your improving or wasting your time. Chas

F is about were mine sits. Its not really that accurate anyways. Can also depend on what temp your thermostate operates at. There are a number of things that can make it run hotter, but I would be inclined to get an accurate measurement before replacing anything.

Hi Mike, I just ordered the engine bay inspection light. Its available in the Nissan dealers in NL but under another nr. 26740-10W00 Chas

What is the advantage of going the TR-7 ECU route? It must be more than just an oxygen sensor. Does it have other possabilities like easier to tune etc?