EuroDat

I found this info about the cressida AFM. the AFM is p/n: 8208-22250 and the round thingy is p/n: 8208-17875? Or it might be something else. (8208- ) Page 2 - 1983 Toyota Cressida 11148 17-03 Air Cleaner Parts http://www.dragtimes.com/parts/OEM-83-84-TOYOTA-CRESSIDA-AIR-FLOW-METER-22250-43140_160528909071.html

Order one today. I can still get them at the Nissan dealer here. €24.85

Put it in boiling water for 5 minutes then pull it off using a bench vice and a washer. Its a bit hard to explain, but you can cut a slot in a flat washer. The washer helps distribute the force on the cup. I did that to save mine while I was waiting for a new one. The part nr. is 32861-N4200 and costs about $2.50. Trying to save it to save money is a bit pointless...

I think they are all pretty much the same. Maybe the zinc color has changed a bit during production. My Nissan dealer quoted me the 26740-10W00 part number. He said it was the new part number replacing 3 other part numbers. It would cost €23.95 if i wanted it. That was back in august. I think Ill call him and order it today.

The plating on mine is OK, its the lens thats stuffed. The plastic just crumble when I leaned on it. Didnt lean all that hard on it. After 35 years I shouldnt be surprised.

Darn it, I broke mine two weeks ago when I leaned on it to pick up a spanner:sick: I wonder if the aftermarket one are as good as the originals?

You can still get them from nissan, but I dont know if they are gold zinc? Nissan still lists them for the 720 trucks which had them well into the 80's, 1986 I think. I have also seen a thread here, but have to look for it. I think thread was something like "engine bay light".

Jcb's advice is spot on. Removing the belt on doesnt do much. Only the pulley and it external bearing turns, the compressor will only turn when the magnetic clutch is activated. Running the system once a month will keep the compressor and its shaft seal lubricated.

Hi, Nissan still have them. Here they cost €32.60 ea. I found this guy when I did mine in november. They are the same right through to 280Z. http://www.ebay.com/itm/160720280159?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648 He might be worth trying. Chas

The runners in the manifold are a limiting factor. Thats one of the big problems to overcome when playing with the standard EFI system. I have seen write-ups with custom manifolds, turbo manifolds and even a system with the LD28 diesel manifold. The only system I have seen with a custom manifold had major mods done to it and was using a MegaSquirt system. He also spent a lot of time on the dyno getting it right. My first priority is getting it running right so he is back to factory specs, which I dont think my Z is at the moment. I seen a 260Z yesterday on the dyno (our clubs new years reception) and it had tripple webbers, mild cam and headers. It peaked at 138hp a little over 5200rpm. The Datsun 260Z should produce around 139hp standard. Thats a lot of money spent and no increase. The mechanic thinks he can get another 30 to 40 hp out of it by playing with the needles and timing. In many cases its sad but true. Chas

Always wondered way the engineers did this. Its basic physics that water is going to lay there and we all know what that means

Hi Leon, Thats a really good thread on Hybridz. I have been reading it all morning (again and again). A lot of info to absorb. Cheers Chas

They probably are the same internally, but the water temp sensor is made for the higher pressure and extreme conditions in the cooling system. The wall thickness slows the temp transfer. If you did this swap I wonder what the effect would be. My system is standard (except resistor in temp sensor), but I would like to play around with it a bit. Not looking to go wild, but a mild increase would be nice. I really like a system done by an old collegue. He used the cresseda AFM with a 60mm throttle body combination and replaced the runners in the inlet manifold to improve breathing. Im thinking about the cresseda AFM, 60mm throttle body and maybe the turbo inlet manifold. I have done a lot of reading about the 280Z EFI, but no one seems to play with them to much. Just keeping them running and fixing problems. Dont want to go to MSII. It would probably take more time and energy to get it running right.

Hi I had my AFM out a couple of months ago and took some photos. The number is A31-625 000 (1X21) L28. The car is a 280Z 5/77 California, but I not sure if its original. The mounting bracket looks original. I did take some photos with my phone. Quality of the photos is a bit ragged, should have used my camera, but it might help you. Chas

Hey Tomohawk, I finally found where I read about it some time back now. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/sizeupgrade/index.html They are quoting a 34% increase in area and give step by step instruction on how to change the circuit board. Chas

I have never seen original NOS rails. Rare find:love:

Do you guys all have sunroofs in Switzerland?

Hi Zed, My car is originally from Redlands 92373, California. Chas

My computer is an A11-601-000 with Lot nr. 7511 for a L28. The car is from 5/77 and as far as I know the unit is original.

I have seen it in one mod and read about it in forums. The AFM was slightly bigger allround and along with the 60mm throttle body gave him better flow. It is close to the original and all the electronica can easily be mounted on the cresseda unit. He changed a lot on the engine and was a weekend racer (hobby). Like I said, there wasnt much left of the original intake system. The OEM EFI couldnt keep up with all the mods; cam, head work, headers and 2-1/2". Chas

How are you going with the computer? Im not sure what your mechanic meant by "12volts on both sides of the computer" ? Have you done the tests in the FSM and Trouble Shooting manuals? http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html http://www.xenons30.com/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Chas

This is a great thread. Good brainstorming. I have a 280Z with standard engine and EFI. I believed there was not much point in doing any mods except the temp sensor resistor mod because the ECU doesnt like it. You also have to consider the inlet manifold is very restrictive. Even going over to the turbo inlet manifold on a N/A engine doesnt help much. The runners are just too small. This is why poeple change over to carbs. Its a simple cost versus performace upgrade. Another common upgrade is MegaSquirt injection system. I have seen a system with MegaSquirt II, a custom manifold, 60mm throttle body and a AFM from a toyota cressedia. It work well after fine tuning, bu it cost more than tripple webbers. Chas

Hi Dave, Have you tried blackdragon. They have them in there catalog, maybe they still have stock? Chas BlackDragonAuto.pdf

What you need to do is stop the corrosion process. I use phosphoric acid rust converter. You can also use Tannic acid. Phosphoric acid comes in 1 or 4ltr containers. I have seen it in BBC and Bunnings hardware stores. Brush it on the rusty area and giverusty areas and give it time to dry. Dulux Rust Converters.pdf

Hi Nils, Looks like the front end is in pretty good condition. You have a good donor for the white Z. Chas