EuroDat

If you want to know more about a R-T mount (Ron Tyler) follow this link http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread36463.html A couple of guys make them and dont ask much for them. Chas

Good to see you solved the problem. When you are frustrated and in a hurry everything seems to go wrong. Murphys law;)

Sounds like a weekeing from hell. After a weekend like that, yes we have all had at one time or another, I generally stay away from the z for a couple of days. The bushings are a right pain if you dont cut them with a hack saw first. I did one bush with the hack saw, but I was worried Id cut into the control arm so I ran a weld down the inside of the others with a stick arc welder and the smallest electrodes I had. When the weld cooled down the bushes tapped out easy. There is something wrong with the dimmensions between the old and new bearings. Are the bearings turning freely before you mount the stub axles. Remember that these bearings dont require pre-load like the front wheel bearings and can actually have a small amount of end play. If the spacer is too short the bearings will lock up when you torque the nut. Check your spacer is not worn in any way. They are also matched to the hub and not interchangable. Once you torque the nut you should give the ends a tap with a soft hammer or drift to settle the bearings and then retorque, but your problem is something else. Just leave it for a couple of days and have another look at it. Chas

I dont know about the "modify" book, but I support siteunseen about the "rebuild" manual from Tom Munroe. Its the bibble for z engine rebuilders. The FSM has all the specs and stuff, but seems to miss detail and is not so clear to understand.

You seem to have so many problems and checking everything at once that its hard for us follow whats happening in this thread. Before changing the fuel filter I would run a quick test. Use the FSM to find out were things are located. - Disconnect the fuel line to the cold start injector and run a hose into a one gallon bucket. - Use a medium sized screwdriver to hold the AFM open. You can get to it via the air cleaner. - Turn the ignition key to ON (do not start the car) and collect the fuel. You should get around one gallon of fuel in two minutes. If you don't get approx one gallon in two minutes then change the filter. If you dont get anything. Check the voltage at the pump. No voltage dubble chack AFM is pushed open. Voltage ok, then do the flow test at the pump and go from there back to the filter. PS: Buy a multimeter. I still dont see any readings. You really can not test an EFI system without one. And learn how to use it. Google " how to use multimeter" you will find plenty of site to help you. Goodluck, Chas

Like the diff mount! Thats called maximum usage. Grats with the spindle pins, they can be a z owners nightmare. If you plan to dismantle the stubs, make sure you deburr the nut. Otherwise you will damage the thread. The tab thats hammered in to lock the nut will tear the thread apart. Chas

I agree with you when you say they can be pretty ordinary, but with the right attention they can look really cool. The GTR's are my favorite. Adzmax is doing a grand job on one now. See link for resto http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45660&page=6&p=417706#post417706

WOW, Your attention to detail is bordering some sort of sick disorder, but I like it;) Dedicated to say the least. This resto is nothing short of Sensational.

The N42 was used in Europe, SA and Australia/NZ with carbies on the 260Z until the 280ZX in 1979. They also used leaded fuel. It could be a import head.

Nice photo blog of your rebuild/restore. Good detail photos:)

Judging by the photos, the car looks pretty good for its age. Nice garage with room to more. My garage is a little small so Im always tidying up to save space. When you drop the tank, pay particular attention to the inside for rust and junk. That can give you years of trouble. I dropped mine and found so much junk in it. Now I know why it went like a rocket just after servicing. The new fuel filter allowed full flow and pressure. Check the forum for spindle tools, spindles are a right PITA to get out. Looking forward to following your progress. Chas

Im using urethane as well. The handing is nothing short of brilliant. My advice is to install the Tensin rod kit from MSA http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC10/23-4190. Helps steering a lot especially when you go over bumps in corners. I chose the black bushes, they are not as prone to squeak like the red. The black bushes are graphite inpregnated. You also read a lot in forums about the bolts for the sway bars being too short. That is true to a degree. I used a block of wood between the body and the top of the bolt in the sway bar and jacked the control arm up until I could fit the nut. Chas

Nice job so far, looking forward to seeing your progress:classic: I take it you mean "add a strut tower brace"? Are you going to use urethane or original bushings? Some poeple don't like the hard ride you get from urethane. Chas

Thats right, the exhaust pipe is in the way of things. You also need to drop the front diff mount crossmember and support the diff. Disconnect the sway bar, hand brake cable and rubber brake line. The drive shafts can be removed two ways. I preffer removing the bolts at the wheel stub axle and leaving them in the diff, but you can also give them a quick hard pull or lever between yoke and diff flange and they will click out of the diff.

Well Ben, I would go back to the second machine shop and ask them to heat it and pull it down straight using the manifold edge as a guide. You dont mention how much gap it has. This will bend the cam in the middle like a bananna and fatigue will end up breaking it. The bigger the gap the sooner this will happen. The head was in pretty bad shape when you started rebuilding it, but now you know where its coming from, I would spend the extra money to get the vertical line straight enough so the cam turns freely. Chas

Yes, if possable its better. If you plan a hi lift regrind, they will remove more metal form the base circles and remove the hardening. The nitriding is a surface treatment, the cam is heated and quenched in ammonia gas making the lobes really hard and giving the cam a really long life span. Not all shops do that and its notacable in the cam life. Chas

If you pull the transmission out yourself it should cost less than $500 to install a bearing kit. If the shop finds something else that also need replacement, then you can decide to fix or get another transmission and use the kit for that.

You could try original boots 54055-N3700 at your local Nissan dealer. I got the hack saw out and sawed through the spindle pins. The three shorter sections were easier to tap out with a hammer and drift. Stil took some flogging to get them out. I think spindle pins and rear stub axles are the worse jobs in a Z.

After all the work you have done Id keep it. If you want to paint it silver, why not. Its your car and if you didnt do the work you have done, it would probably be in th junk yard by now. Once you finish the rear end, you can drive it a while and enjoy the results. My car was originally light blue and the PO painted it red:cry: and not very good either. I like white but itsa big job stripping done to do a colour change. What ever I do, the red is going. If it doesnt flake off first:disappoin

You should get hold of the FSM before you do too much hunting. It could be a range of sensors making it run rough. Is the exhaust black and sooty and how are the spark plugs? If you are handy with a multi-meter You can try these tests http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm and check the distributor pick-up using the steps in the FSM manual here http://www.xenons30.com/ Good luck. Chas

If your trying to sell and worried about the noise you could try a bearing kit. If the shaft surfaces are reasonable it will reduce the noise. You will need a bearing puller and press or a shop that can do it for you. A kit would probably better the better solution than trying another transmission. You will probably find more than one bearing on the way out, but one is making so much noise its drowning out the others. A kit will cost you about $85 http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan_f5w71_overhaul_kit.html#FS5W71A Note the kit is actually for a FS5W71C which comes with the larger cluster shaft front bearing. The kit also doesnt have the reverse idler bearing. Chas

Any metals that contain high amounts of sodium, Potassium, or magnesium with burn when heated to ignition point and are hard to control. I have never seen aluminium and steel react to each other without one of the catylists metals.

A bit of advice; Buy yourself a good quality tube flare spanner for the brake lines. Saves damaging the flare nut when you end up using visegrips. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_217518_langId_-1_categoryId_165469

I have never seen a datsun head drilled for injectors. They all use the manifold to mount the injectors. The N42 heads came out on the 75 - 76 280Z in the 48 states without catalytic convertor and using leaded fuel. As far as I know it only came with EFI. A po may have changed it over to SU's

If its an original cam stamped with "japan" its made of good quality steel. Regrinding that would be a good option. Be careful with aftermarket cams. If they are not post treated (a process called nitriding) to harden the surface they can wear very quickly and need replacing.