EuroDat

The tolerances classes in ball bearings is an ISO spec. The internal clearances are classed from C1 (the tightest) through to C5 (the loosest or largest). There is also a CN and a CM. the The CN "normal" has a range sitting between C2 and C3. The CM "motor" is for electric motors and has a range similar to CN has has less noise. Saying all that, the C3 spec is not the quietest ball bearing out there and will generate noise, but this was acceptable in those days. I dont think the problem here is in the ball bearings. It is most likely in the neddle roller bearing between input & output shafts. The problem with replacing this bearing is the bearing is not the only thing that wears here. Its not a sealed unit and relies on the surfaces on the shaft to run properly. If those two surfaces wear and become pitted it will be out of tolerance and make noise. Replacing the bearing will help but it wont take all the noise away. Like Zed said, most of these transmissions make a degree of noise and that is normal considering the life on them. My Transmission makes noise and I am now planning the change over to a 300zx transmission type 71C.

I cant watch the video from my mobile. I take it you have replaced those parts; clutch, pressure plate, thrust bearing, pilot bearing. Did it have this noise before you changed the parts? What your describing sounds like the bearing between the input and output shaft in the transmission. In that case you should also hear it, maybe to a less degree, in 1st and 2nd gear. 4 th gear would be totally silent.

Dont know anyone who has used one. Why do you want to go aluminium? Plenty of other ways to reduce weight and cheaper per ounce. Ligthening the flywhel etc.

One small piece of advice, photo 3429. Try to get out of the habit of using the fenders as a workbench (black socket set and other tools) you will regret it later. They can dint so easily. Once she is all paint and shining, the smallest dint is so visable.

Nice post you got going here. Good detail makes for a good read. Keep up the good work.

Well im gob smacked, dont know what to say really. Glad its not my z. Id need therapy to get over seeing it go through that.

Smoooooth

Maybe he change the cam and used the old one as a core deposit? If its a mild cam you might not notice the differance because you hve not driven the car before the change over. To change the cam for a standard P79 cam seems a lot of money and effort for little improvement. The specs are here http://www.xenons30.com/cams.html

I always thought the P90 and P90a heads were tubo and the P79 head was the NA head. If you stay with a P90 it shouldn't be a problem. The P90 was used in 81/82 and the P90a with hydraulic lifters came out in 83.

Mine was a little jittery too, but main problem was rattling especially after new bushes in the suspension. This rattle had me stumped for a while, it was only a low speed driving rattle. Now I know it was because the wind put tension on the linkage by pushing the wipers up when I drove faster than 60km/hr. The linkage is domed shaped where the ball fits and the ball is held in place by a chrome plated spring steel shell. It is fitted with to small rivits. If you have to much play you could try removing the plate squeezing the dome section to remove the excess play. It would be trail and error. I have included photos of the linkage with the chrome shell with small rivits.

You don't mention the model. 280Z 77-78 have 3 red and 1 black. I think the red is 50amp, black is 40amp. The fsm doesnt mention the amperage.

I am assuming you have dismantled the linkages from the wiper arm pivots by removing the soft metal circlip. Once you have done that you can clean the old grease out with decreaser or equivelant. The eyeball itself doesn't come apart. I cleaned it with degreaser/parts washer and worked the new grease in with a small brush and turning the eye over in the socket untill the grease filled the cavity. Its hard to explain and I didn't take photos, but you can turn the eyeball in such a way that the hole is horizontal in the socket. When you do that you can see into the cavity and with a small brush you can work the grease into it. Someone fitted my unit with three o-rings. I changed them for felt which I had to cut out of a thin mat. Couldn't find any battery terminal felts here. I needed something to stop the rattle. That was my biggest problem. Glad I done it, they have never worked so good and smooth. Goodluck with. Chas

Been there, done that. All I can say is Vintage Rubber is worth every cent. If its worth the time and money to replace, spend a little more. Genuine is the best but I wonder how old the genuine nissan parts are these days? If they have been on the shelf for 20years there wont be much life left.

Anyone know what type of powered rack and pinion he is using? Looks pretty close to original system. Neat setup. Give him 10 points for effort, not my taste though. Im not into all that kit car stuff.

Wow, It comes with CD Player "options" That mean the rest is standard?

Welcome, Now your truly got Z fever:D She looks tidy and clean. What are your plans with the car?

You mention problems with the last bearing cap, but you didn't mention what has been done to it. What work did the shop do to crank? Do you have new bearings or undersized crank with new bearing? Don't file anything off the cap. It was fitted once before you dismantled it so it will fit again. The freezer trick can help a lot, but I think you have a problem with alignment. Are the bearing shells fitted snugly in place, both in the cap and block? Can you fit the cap without the crank? Then it would be an alignment problem. Chas

Don't know about a 240k, but when I lived in sydney I used their kit in a HT Monaro with very mixed results. The weather strips didn't fit all that well. The texture of some rubbers was rough, not the smooth finish of the originals. The polish would get in the rough bits and leave white smudges. The quality seemed to be batch related, because some were good to excellent and other pieces were rough. Their chrome emblems were also poor quality and started rusting after a couple of years and that was with the car being garage when not in use. Its going back a while now, so maybe they have improved their quality control? Goodluck with it. Chas

If you want just one injector holder, you can buy them at your local nissan dealer. Part nr. 16610-N1400. Around $6.00ea.

Hi Bill, I have not seen a N42 in original state with steel valve seats. You often come across them with steel seats these days because the machine shops change them over when rebuilding or repairing the heads. They are pre-unleaded fuel heads and dont have the liners in the exhaust like the N47 and P79. For the rest they are one of the more popular heads with the P90 probably being the most desired of them all. I run a N47 on a N42 block (original egine) in a 77 280z. These heads cop a lot of bad reviews because of liners in the (diamond shaped) exhaust ports and poor squench design. It works fine imo, but I dont race it so Im not pushing to the limit. Hope this helps Chas

What ever you do to bypass the screen you only catch up with you further down the line. If its blocking the screen it will block an inline filter even faster. I would drop the tank and have it cleaned. If it has a lot of rust inside it might not be worth repairing. Then pick up another tank from a slavage yard and clean it. Chas

After reading all that about the FI shop I would call him back and tell him to forget it and then buy new ones. Thats what I meant by finding a good FI shop. A lot of them are not worth 2 cents. We had a shop do my friends Honda Civic and it was worse then we started playing with the injectors. He ended up buying new ones. If you still need the injector holder you can find them on this link http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-DATSUN-FACTORY-OEM-FUEL-INJECTOR-HOLDERS-280Z-280ZX-1975-1983-BRAND-NEW-/160868597488?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257483fef0&vxp=mtr#ht_1197wt_754

I looked at buying a set like these, but ended up making my own. The SS version looks good and reading his info I see he is now punching slots in them. Stailess can be a pain to drill. I converted my 280z to fibreglass bumpers because I could'nt find any originals in any reasonable condition around here. To fit them I use aluminium strip because it was easy to bend and form to the right shape. Then used the aluminium set as a template to make a stainless set. Eventually I want to change to the SS bumper made in Vietnam, but the price is rather steep and I have yet to see a pair on a car.

Any hardware or electronics supply store will have them. You could also try allen head screws. Size: M5x30mm.thread pitch 1.0mm

Siteunseen is right. Its the Thermal Vacuum Valve for the EGR valve. If you cant remove the EGR because of smog regulations in your state then try to repair or replace it:disappoin The TVV doesn't allow vacuum to the EGR untill temp is above 45degC, 110degF. The EGR doesn't work at idle or full throttle because their is to little vacuum to open it. The other condition is if the exhaust pressure is under +/- 30mmH2O the BPT valve won't let the vacuum open the EGR. I had to order the screws when I replaced them. Took about a week to get them. You would think something like that would be standard, but apparently not:ermm: