EuroDat

Hi esprist, Thanks for your info. Im glad to know im heading down the right track. Do you have the size of the O-rings? Thanks

I have also heard of OKinjectors. They do a lot of old system injector cleaning and can match flow your injectors. I have not seen any reviews about them in this forum. Maybe someone can give us their views? http://www.okinjectors.com/#!__my-website/gasoline-injector-service http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm There is a really nice post on fixing a dash by BD240Z. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread23919.html He did a top job on it. I dont know what the differences are in the wiring diagrams. You could download the FSM's from both models and check the differences that way. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Hi Koalia, If you are talking about the re-usable Tye-rap ones, see photo's, you need to squeeze the two tabs on the other side of the panel, which can be a real pain to get to sometimes. Otherwise you will break the tabs off. There is another type as well. Its uses a strap with round holes to hold the harness. It has a pin which fits snugly in the body panel. They are really hard to fit in good condition. The thin strap breaks very easy. Hope it helps:)

I have a rattle in the wipers (since my polyurethane suspension bushing upgrade) and decided to remove the motor and control rods to see what was causing it. The control rods are not tight which is what is causing the rattle. 3 Rubbers normally provide tension and stop the rattles, but my rubbers are so worn they are not doing anything anymore. I have searched the common places on the internet but had no luck. I want to order the parts C-04 & C-05 on Banzai's webshop, but they don't have the rubbers in the control rods. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRubber.php I was wondering if an O-ring would do and if anyone has done this or other mod to fix the problem. I have included photo's to show which rubbers I mean. Any advice input is welcome Thanks EuroDat

If you know everthing on the 78 is in better condition, then I would go down that road and use the parts from the 78. The wiring is burnt in the 75 so there could be damage in switches etc. It wont be original, but if that is not an issue it should'nt hold you back. The efi is Bosch L-Jetronic and is know to be reliable. I would at least have the injectors cleaned and checked. That can make a big difference to the overall running. Since you said the tanks are rusted the injectors are most probably dirty and partly blocked. Are th dashes in the same condition with cracks and such?

Hope your not planning to use it as a regular drive in the winter. The winter is hard on Z's with all the salt they use here. I used a transport company to import mine. Had to disconect the side indicators and change the tyres. They checked the wheel base, allowed standard +25mm. The mag wheels where just on 20mm. Im in the netherlands which also has EC rules, but they are probably a little different in Germany.

Just to clear up what I meant by regrind. There are a lot of aftermarket billets that shops will grind to your specs. The quality of these billets is sometime questionable. Nissan billets are very good and can be identified by "japan" stamped on the end. I reground mine and had no problems with the geometry, but my profile was mild. Hi lift would probably change that.

Im not certain because im not home to check, but its looks a lot like my 280z booster. Ill be back home on thurday, if you want I can post some fotos from the booster and under the dash area.

I have been using Valvoline VR1 in my engine because it has a higher level of "zinc" which is good for old style engines. So Im told. See http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil for info. Its a conventional oil for racing, but also for street use. I had synthetic before I changed over. The shop said they did not mix very well. When I changed over I drained it overnight, filled it with 3 ltrs of VR1, ran it for 10 to 15 minutes to mix the oils good and drained it again overnight. Then filled it up with VR1.

I thought Crane stopped making cams in 2005 and sold their inventory to S&S cycle in Wisconsin. I remember reading it somewhere... Dont go cheap on the cam. The extra money for a post treated cam (Nitride treatment) is well worth it in durability of the cam lobes. A lot of regrinds dont have it.

Dont know if you are still looking, but the site New Datsun Part has then. They look like new which probably explains the price tag? http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-240Z-parts-exterior2.html Cheers

Hi Ben, I would take all the caps off (except no. 4 because its different) and check if the bearings are different in any way. If not, the only conclusion I can come up with is the manufacturer has made the bearings all the same width (one size fits all) to cut cost or something like that. The bearings could also fit another model nissan engine and they are made to suit both engines. In that case it should not be a problem. You could ask the supplier to check if that is the case. In the end the crank turns freely and the end play is within spec. You plastigaged the bearings so you know they are not over tolerance. I would then move on to the next step in the rebuild.

Thats good news Ben. I could,nt remember nr 1 & 7 being wider, but that was almost ten years ago when we rebuild a friends engine. At last you found the problem and can move on knowing its right:)

Sorry, typing on I-pad. I meant "I would NOT try fixing it" Nice to know someone is bothered to read what I writeLOL

Ouch:disappoin. I would try fixing it. It would probably crack next to the weld (brital cast steel doesnt like being welded that much) and sending pieces flying straight through the bonnet. That sought of thing would happen to me if I tried it.

I prefer the FSM over the Haynes manual. Europe, Aus, NZ and South Africa never saw the 280Z. They just went further with the 260z and FI until the 280ZX. The 280z came out to try to combat the extra weight due to the heavy bumpers and the tougher emision regulations in CA.

Runs yes, buts I havent seen them on the strut towers yet. My car has runs (in original blue) under the top door hinge on the drivers door frame. Hard to see until you take the front fenders off. I think they came with the extra options packageLOL

Hey Ben, Reading you horror story I almost didnt want to look at the photos. When I did I was pleased to see it turn out very nice;). Pity about the runs on the firewall. Tipical how those things always happen at the worsed possible moments, I guess:cry:. I can't see them on the photo so they are not that bad and once the engine is back in it won't be that notacable. My car was blue 305, but someone painted it red (badly) so I will need to remove it completly. The blue was faded. I can see a difference between under the hood and by the reserve wheel. The wheel area is darker "grey" in colour and under th hood has a "white" look to it. pS: Nice to see you still got a sence of humour after itLOL

I cant remember the caps being different in thickness. The only shells that are different are the nr 4 thrust bearing. I tossed the old ones i had when I cleaned up the shed. Its puzzling to say the least, because it almost impossable to mount them incorrectly and still get the crankshaft to turn freely. Im going from memory and the FSM which aint much help in this situation.:disappoin Anyone else got any ideas???

If you want to have a cheap fix and the only problem is the ring gear. Its easy to replace yourself. Just tap it off with a hammer and punch or use a chissel between the teeth. The chissel will expand the ring and lossen it. To mount the new one: Put ice in a garbage bag and lay it on the flywheel for an hour. The garbage bag keeps the flywheel as dry as possible. While the flywheel is cooling down (and contracting at the same time) put the new ring gear in the oven for 30 minutes @ 220degC (400degF). This will expand the ring gear enough that it will fall in place. Dry off the flywheel of any condens. Condens can chill the ring gear and lock it in the wrong position. Use oven mittens or gloves and drop the gear into place, turn it to make sure it in position. It should lock within seconds so be quick. Cheers

Just a couple of questions. I still trying to figure out why the shell is sticking out one side. Sounds like they are the right diameter. You checked it with plastigage and its turning freely. 1. Are the bearing shells in the right section? By this I mean; are the shell halfs with groove and a hole in the block section and not in the cap. The hole should line up with the drilling in the block. This lubricates the journal and the connecting rod for the piston next to it. 2. Do you still have the old bearing shells to compare? Check if they are the same width. 3. The thrust bearing is on nr: 4 bearing in the centre. Can you insert the feelergauge in one side of the thrust bearing? Assuming the bearing thats protruding out one side is pushing the crankshaft against the thrust bearing. 4. An extra check would be to remove the crankshaft and install the bearing cap with the bearing shells and see if its aligning correctly. The two halfs should meet exactly and not staggered. Hope this helps you. Keep us posted. It will be interesting to hear what the problem is.

That is strange, you shouldnt be able to see the bearing protruding out of the main bearing cap. Sounds like its not positioned in the centre. Is it showing on both sides of the main bearing cap? One main bearing is used for thrust alignment. If its to tight it will not get enough lubrication, overheat and wearout quickly. I would dismantle and start again. The bearing shells should fit the caps and be if anything a fraction smaller than the cap, but not wider. Are you sure the bearings are correct for a L-series motor?

There is a good read about SU carb tuning on http://datsungarage.com/engine Sounds like you might be using emision carbs. I dont know what the differance internally. Good luck with tuning;) PS: The block is a 2.6. Im asuming they changed the block and head, then you should have the E88 with the larger valves. If its still the std 240 head it will have smaller valves.

With a standard exhaust manifold its simple. Only thing in the way is the pcv hose to the crankcase and then you can drop in down a bit and pull it out. Sounds like your headers have taken all the space directly under the intake? Can you post a photo, might help trigger someone with a solition to help.

I had play in the right hand side tie-rod of the rack & pinion. It was a pain to adjust. Had to remove the rack and cut the weld that locked it together and then reweld it. The old mount rubbers and the steering coupling rubber replaced with urethane. The steering tightened up a lot & now feels very responsive. I changed all the suspension rubbers with eruthane. Helps handeling a lot, but ride comfort and noise suffer. Been on a rattle hunt since then.