EuroDat

Hi AK260, "I wish they weren’t storing the doors on the roof!" That is what I thought when I saw that photo. Ouch. "Forgive my ignorance but those round holes in the rear valence, were they for US style fat bumpers or are they exhaust exit holes?" Yep. They are indeed ugly bumper shock holes.

You could try one of these. It replaces the N4700 which is the Californian variant of the N4200 https://www.stockwiseauto.com/standard-motor-products-vc351-distributor-vacuum-advance Standard VC-351 aftermarket versin for the 1977-78 280Z 280ZX en 810.

I think if we are really honest, a lot of aftermarket parts are questionable when safety comes into play. Take a look at some of the so called brake upgrades and suspension kits. The brake kits are often proven parts in a tested design, but not when several parts out of different designs are combined to make an "upgrade kit". I think copying someone elses design would raise more ethical questions than strength of design.

If you are talking about the basic kit, some people have commented having little improvement over the drum brakes and actually having problems via front and rear bias using the toyota 4-pot calipers up front. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21m/24-5581 It's more bling bling than an improvement. I have the standard setup with porterfiels pads AP114 RS-4 and shoes SHOE480 RS-4. Excellent result. Mho: The common problem with "street" brake conversions is the R&D in the particular conversion. Yes the parts individually are sound and reliable, but the combination and balance is based on sometimes as little as a couple of parking lot runs to determine balance between front and rear. In conditions like an emergency stop at 100km/hr they can react completly different. The standard system has gone through rigorous testing in the factory and years of custumer service. Restoring the brake system to original condition with better pad and shoe compounds is generally a better choice.

OMG. Another canadian with a hobby tractor. Now the snow chains and the picture will be complete. Chris, The 500 is starting to come back to life in your caring hands. The parts are looking great.How is the body for rust? It looks good in the foto's, but we all know what happens when you start digging around.

The transmission with the porsche type servo synchros are the 5 speed usded in the roasters (short tale) and the 240Z outside the US and Canada. They have the code FS5C71A and later the FS5C71B. The "C" refers to the type of synchro ring. W is for Warner type ring. Of course there are some exceptions along the way with both syncrhos in the 5 speed transmission. Then you can find the warner synchros in 1st to 4th gear and the servo type in 5th.

It certainly sounds like your synchros are wearing down. Probably below minimum spec. A good oil could make all the difference. The GM AC delco oil suitable for brass synchros has yielded good results for some members here on this forum. That or Redline MT-90 75W90 GL-4 gearoil. Btw: The A type transmission (F4W71A) uses the same synchro rings in second gear as the F4W71B the FS5W71B and the early FS5W71C transmissions (the 71C without the reverse synchro). All four gear have the same synchros. Only fifth is little smaller in diameter.

And to add to the confussion this is the genuine replacement harness from Nissan with P/N: 24079-U8700. It is actually for the later model 79-81 280ZX iirc. 280Z Original p/n was 24079 N4202 and 24079 N4203

It is in the wiring diagram. You can find it here in Resources - downloads - wiring diagrams. The FSM in section EF - Engine fuel only shows the ECU terminal numbers for diagnostics. The diagrams start from page EF-24 and show the different tests in that section of the FSM.

I know of two Zed door seal manufactures, Vintage rubber and Pacific Rim. The seals made by Vintage rubber are far superior than those from Pacific Rim. Who sells what, I don't remember. I used the Kia sportage seals and find them very good. Compression is about 25% which is reccomended for a good seals without deforming the window frame. You will need to cut and glue the seal at the top rear of the window section. The Kia seal will work on the rear hatch, but it is a different profile and has about 40% compression which makes the lid harder to close. No cutting required. I purchased 3 from Kia in South Korea for $37,50 ($12,50 ea) and $8,50 shipping.

That should solve your problem. That plate is spot welded to the inner body.

Captain, Did you make any progress on this? Interested to see any results. I want to do that on my front struts and the bottoming issue will not be a problem for me because I'm correcting height gain from when I removed the 280Z bumpers. Height gain front was a little over an inch so I will be returning to the height before the bumper mod. Chucks idea of shortening the top insulator mount is interesting. I have a couple extra sets to play with, but reluctant to sacrifice a set. I would like to investigate the perch mod more.

On these injectors it doen't make any difference.

You can make one very easily with two 8mm eye terminals. It is about 10cm long iirc

Here is a better photo

There is a wire with two round eye terminal about 15cm long. It connects under the efm and to one of the mounting bolts. It grounds the afm because the afm is mounted with rubber vibration dampers and rubber hoses. The air passing through it can built up static electricity and effect the circuits. You can see it in this photo

The front bullect connector conects to a Black/Blue strip wird in the harness. It goes to the ballast spade connector in the middle of the ballast risistor. One of the wires with a spade terminal in the middle section of your ballast resistor should be Black with a blue strip. It goes into the harness going to the front of the car and comes back out somewhere between the coil and AFM with a bullet connector. The other end of the condensor connects to a black wire that goes to the M6 bolt on the distributor mount.

The condensor on the californian 77 280Z is funny dubble ended condenser. One end goes to the midle spade terminal on the ballast and the other goes to the distributor. The spade wire goes to a bullet connector to the condenser. Can you trace the two spade wires on the ballast and see where they go? The color 1977 wiring diagram (not original nissan diagram) doesn't show it clearly, but the 1978 does. Note the 78 doesn't use a ballast because they switched to a 12v coil. The condensor wire splices into the coil positive wire.

Here is a photo of the spade connector and how it connects to the ballast.

Here is a topic on injectors

Do you mean speedo or tacho? I can't see how the coil would influence the speedo, being a mechanical driven device. Can you also give some details about the car. Your user name is 240Zadmire, but the photo is clearly a californian 280Z. Going by the inductor terminal block left of the coil. That spade terminal goes on the ballast resistor for the coil.

It just makes it easier to fit them to a couple of injectors, but it doesn't effect the function of thr connector. Any EV1 connector will fit. If originality is not an issue then I would stay away from the original EV1 connector. They had a difficult spring release mechanism and are a pita toget off the injector. The ones you have in your link and the ones I posted are the quick release "squeeze" type connector and must easier to remove.

Yes. They will fit the original 280Z EV1 injector. I used something similar to these https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/fuel-injector-connectors-and-adapters/ev1-fuel-injector-connector-for-plug-tpi-lt1-ls1-ls6-5-3-5-7-6-0-rc-tre-ev1-pigtail-wiring-clip/ They are shorter and give a little more room to click them onto the injector.

The standard kits with have the two bearing in the adapter plate. Those two bearings are generally the ones that give most of the problem. Note: Some kits comes with a larger front counter shaft bearing for the 71C transmission. All the synchos and bearings, with exception of the front counter shaft bearing are the same for the 71B and 300ZX, 200SX 71C transmissions.

That is a piece of bearing cage on the drain plug magnet. Most probably from the counter shaft (sometimes called cluster shaft) bearing in the adapter plate. If you want to rebuild the transmission, I would strongly advise dismantling it first to asses the condition. A rebuild kit could be enough to restore it to good working condition, but it might have a lot of other damage where a replacement transmission would be the better option. If you want a parts list, see link in downloads section.