EuroDat

Interesting. Thanks fof sharing. Can you post a photo of the new canister set-up?

Looking good Jonesy. Welcome to the club.

I'm not sure what the white "Carb" line was meant for either. In all the parrs manuals, they are capped off. The spare one I have is from a 260Z I believe. Anyways, if it's capped off it should work fine.

It should be ok. The 3 lines are the same on all the variants. Tube layout. Yellow: Distributor vacuum. Green: Purge Blue: Fuel tank White: Carbs. This is for the 240Z, 260Z carb models and also fitted to the early 280Z, but then with a cap p/n: 14964-F1700. The three tube variant part numbers: 14950-N4800 and 14950-P8200 (280ZX) The four tube variant part numbers: 14950-N3600 and 14950-N4200 (early 280Z)

Yeah, but I don't think my wife would let me lose in there, since I have collect a lot of just in case parts over the years, but I can still dream about it....

Btw. Wayne rightfully deserves all the credit for that wiring diagram. I'm just babysitting.

Welcome to the forum. If you need help, this is the place to be. I'm with @Patcon on the poly bushing kits. It makes the ride a lot harsher. I can personally vouch for that and still regret changing certain (mustache bar) components. It does handle better, I give it that, but the ride certainly got a lot harder and anything that could rattle did after the swap. If you do go poly and the mustache bar bushes are in good condition, my advice; look for another mustache bar to fit the poly bushes. Those original bushes are NLA (no longer available) and if your car has 38k chances are they will still be in good condition. They will be one of those hard to get parts in the future. If you want to chance the bumpers, there are some god threads on this site to help you. Plenty of other things to attend to before tackling that. Goodluck and enjoy.

I'm looking at the photo and it reminds me of when friends from Sydney came to visit. It worried him when we parked the car. Especially when the wheel touch the "railing". You can see what I mean on the other side of the canal. I like the way they still don't use any kind of railing. Well, just enough to trip you so you fall in head first?

Hi Charles, Great father son project you have. Looks amazing.

Well that is another possible cause scratched of the list. Eliminating problems instead of assuming will get you there. 190cc will be close enough. More important is that they are ALL close to 190cc. Otherwise you can have lean and rich cylinders.

A goed comparison could be trying to get a goed tune done on your Volvo 1800E with D-tronic fuel injection. Although if I go by my mates troubles he is having with his 1800E, not much better than Barts experience. It could be just anything old over here and you are in trouble looking for any kind of speacialist.

You should be alright with that diff. It was originally for the 280ZX Non turbo 2 coupe. 81 - 83. The 280Z 5 speed had a 3.321:1 1st ratio with a 3.545 diff. The 280ZX turbo had a BW T5 with 3.50:1 ratio with a 3.545 diff You had a 280Z 5 speed ( well, I think it is) with a 3.321:1 1st ratio and a 3.9 diff. If you go to the 300ZX 71C transmission you will have a 3.321:1 1st gear with a 3.9diff. Same as what you have now. If you liked it with the 71B. The 300ZX 71C will be fine but with a better shifter. The photo is two 5 speeds, but are they both widd ratio 280Z or close ratio 280ZX? See "How to" doc on how to tell the difference. How to - F5W71B Wide and Close ratio transmission.pdf

If I were you I would search for a Z31 300ZX Non turbo transmission or if you are lucky a S13/14 transmission. That is the FS5W71C with the 16mm gear and no synchro on the reveese gear. It is becoming more difficult to find in Europe these days. The 71C does have a better shifter mech. Specially with a B&M short through shifter Is it stronger than the FS5W71B? Not much. It does have the heavier bearing on the front of the cluster shaft, but the rest in priciple is similar strength wise. It should be strong enough for the power and torque of the 280ZX turbo engine.

I like when I'm on holiday and say' "I'm from Holland" and I get a response, "Oh that's nice, is that near Amsterdam?"

The problem with the 71C transmission is there are so many variants. I have heard up to 12, and that is not the ratios. I have two and they are different lengths. I am on holiday and don't have much on my tablet, but here is a quick example of stuff I have found over the years. The stuby rear extension has a different selector rod linkage. The external selector is exactly the same as the 300ZX. I know the for sure. Comparing the FS5W71B.pdf

Yes, but they don't have the heavy duty 240SX transmission with the 20mm gears and synchro reverse gear. The 200SX uses more or less the same as the 300ZX with the 16mm gears. IIRC the 200SX has a strange selector set-up. It's been a while since I saw the internals of one. You can transfer the FS5W71B front casing to any of the 71C transmissions. It's a fairly easy mod to do and they are easier to find than a T5 with an L28 bolt pattern.

Thanks for the feedback. Enjoy?

Reply sent

It's a standard looking 280Z pre August 1977 AFM. Definitely not 280ZX. You can tell by the contact switch for the fuel pump. I have one with the same part number. They produced a lot of part numbers for the hole sries, but essentually you have two types for the non turbo model. With and without switch. Like I mentioned before. I would check the calibration by following the steps on Atlanticz, but only adjust it if you get a realy wonky reading.

If the engine is running and you are readin 0.5volts, something wrong with the way you are testing it or your meter is bad. What is the fuel gauge doing. Reading full is a sign of a bad ground which could be related to the pump problem, but not likely. If it's reading empty, then you have most likely a problem with the power supply to your gauge. Sounds like you have two separate problems

Good move and reinstating the carbon canister, replacing the gauge and sending the injectors off for testing. You are eliminating some of the unknowns. Once you get the injectors back or replace them, you can start sorting out you pressure regulator. Test run the pump and adjusg the FPR to 36psi. Then connect the vacuum line. I don't think I would worry about the CSV or the AAR for now anyway. Mine starts easy in the summer and even in the early spring and late autum I can start it and play with the throttle for 30 seconds and then it idles on its own. My experience with these old systems. If poeple start playing with the system, which is very clear in your case, they eventually focus their attention on the AFM. The temptation to play with the spring and ease of access is too much. See link for testing the AFM. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html Plenty of other neat tips on Atlanticz. A good read while waiting for the injectors to come back. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm The other thing I would reccomend is going through all the tests in the EFI bible.

I used my original condensor, but eventually removed it.

Well, you have had a bit of a struggle getting there, but at least you now have a good working systeem. I can't remember having any trouble with the tacho, but I'm not sure if it is accurate either.

That is what I was thinking too. They are normally green in colour. I couldn't find anything on the colour, but they could be turbo injectors. That would make sense of the low fuel pressure.

I'll have a look tomorrow. I picked them up a while back on a local website.