EuroDat

Those E12-80 matchboxes are available also available in bosch, lucas and other European manufacturers. A bit like the efi system which is esentually a copy of the bosch jetronic. I have nos spare Lucas and a boch units still in their boxes.

If the brake light comes, you have a pressure differential between the front and rear systems. See screenshot brake switch. Could be a couple of things causing it, but if you can't find any brake fluid leaks at the wheels then it's likely the master cylinder leaking back into one of the reservoirs or back into the booster. That or air in one system.

One other thing about your fuel system. You replaced the leaking fuel cap. Maybe it was "leaking" for a reason. He removed the carbon canister and that is actually the vent for the tank. In you photo it is clear to see he blocked off the pipe with a rubber cap. You need to restore the carbon canister function.

Reading through the thread again. Everyone's covering a lot of ground in a short time. I'm with Site and Zed on the usefullness of the fuel injection test kit. If you want spend money, subsribe to this site. Money well spent. You will help the site and the members are all willing to help with advice. You could be right on a bad fuel pressure gauge. A new one will set you back $5 to $10. Replacing it would be a good idea. I think I would concentrate on one thing at a time. Before buying anything, except fuel gauge, I would try to get the fuel pressure adjusted to spec. The fpr seems to react to vacuum correctly so you should be able to use it. Check the specs for the injectors are correct etc. What concerns me is the low pressure. If it is really so low it could be to compensate big injectors. The origjnal injectors are 185cc, but you could have larger capacity injectors. Can you get a really close photo of the injector with part number?

I do that if I want to crank the engine and I'm on my own. Also have a couple aligator clips with a button swicth so I can work on the manifold side and crank it from there. The fuel pump: To run the pump you need someone in the car to hold the key in the start position. You don't want to crank the engine endlessly. Same procedure, remove the wire with spade terminal fron the starter. Get someone or do it yourself to turn ignition key to start and hold it there. That will run the pump, but won't crank the engine regardless of oil pressure or afm vane position in the pre mid 1977 models. Don't try to prime the pump with everything intacted. Disconect the hose after the fuel filter or directly after the pump damper and let the pump free flow first. Note: If it has been sitting for a long time it could be full of air. You will then have a difficult time getting pressure. These pumps don't like pumping dry, and you can damage them quicking if you ae not carefull. A dry pump will never build up enough pressure to open the fuel pressure regulator and create a flow to prime the system. 1. I would diconnect the wire (with spae terminal) to the starter motor. 2. Disconnect the fuel line after the pump and run it into a container. 3. Hold key in start position and let fuel run into container for approx. 1 minute and check fuel quanity. Should be about 2 litres. 4. Connect the fuel line and then disconnect the fuel line after the filter. Hold key in start position again until fuel flows. 5. Fit a pressure gauge in the line after fuel filter (see photo of efi bible) and run pump again using key in start position. You shouls see 36psi. 6. Stop pump and see if system holds pressure. I'll post a leak down test for that later if you want.

Congrats on getting it running. Hope you are still having pleasure driving it.

You can order the hex head bolts through your local Nissan dealer. I paid €0.68each two years ago. The part number has changed a couple of times which makes it harder to find. P/N: 08360-53014 or 01121-02981 I don't mind ebay sellers trying to make a buck by parallel selling. He is not too over priced ($14 to Nissan $9.85), but it's the shipping we have to pay to get it to Europe that bugs me.

No. It's the little spade terminal next to the large M8 stud terminals on the solenoid. It is the wire that activates the starter. This photo might be clearer.

The fuel gauge should read a maximum of 36psi with no manifold vacuum. Test and adjust the regulator with the engine off. To run the pump just remove the spade terminal from the starter motor and have someone hold the key in the start position. That will run the pump without cranking the engine. Once you have done that start the engine and check the pressure. Idle should be around 32 psi. If you flip the throttle the pressure will rise close to 36psi briefly, then drop down to lower than idle pressure and return to idle pressure.

The fuel pressure regulator looks like it can be vacuum adjustable. See black plug on the top. The way it is now, it will give too much pressure and rich running at idle for sure. The hood should have an emmisions sticker saying catalyst if its californian.

Btw. An easy way to run the pump is to remove the spade terminal from the starter motor and turn the key to start. That will override the safety feature (oil pressure switch or flow switch in the afm) without running or cranking the engine continuously.

I would prime the fuel pump by removing the fuel line either at the filter or at the punp damper and letting it pump into a container. These old pumps don't self prime easily when the tank is under half full and the FPR won't allow flow until it reaches 36psi. A good time to do a flow test as well. It should pump at least 2 litres per minute. If it doesn't replace the filter, if you haven't already, and check the screen in the pump inlet. It often gets clogged up.

I noticed he has a gauge as well at the front of the engine. Can you tell us what the pressure is at idle and if it changes when you rev the engine?

Stone gaurd. Thats what I remember them by.

I went for the Type 1 fibreglass for the 240Z since fitting the 240 valence is not possible with the lower 280Z frame. Looks neat with the modified 240Z grill.

You are in a bit of an unknown. Can you ask the neighbors son what he did to the engine? The standard EFI doesn't like changes and it looks like he a played with the engine. He has changed the fuel rail and I can not see the fuel pressure regulator. I'm sure it's not there because the vacuum ports on the manifold are all blocked off. Maybe he installed a static fpr? That will give you an overfuel issue at idle for sure. The FPR should change the line pressure so the pressure between the injector pressure and the inlet manifold remains a constant 36psi. High vacuum equals low line pressure. A static fpr will keep delivering 36psi too high for idle. He also installed extractors. Not saying extractors are worse for economy, but not in combination with a stock ECU. These old ECU's don't handle changes all that well and can't compensate. The unknowns are: Did he play with the AFM vane spring adjustment and is the cam still original? He removed a lot of other stuff like CSV and AAR, but that stuff is there for cold start. If the tests are on a warm engine you won't need it.

I'm not sure what is going on, but hey, it runs the way it should. Thats the main thing.

Do you mean the old original TIU? That can happen. The HEI can activate at a different point in the reluctor wave form which will effect the advance. My timing was different when I went from TIU to HEI, but not as much as what you are experiencing.

Strange to see such variance in the two HEI units. Are they the same brand / manufacturer?

If you rebuilfd the transmission I would recommend using Nissan parts where possible. See parts list I used in 2012. You might have some trouble sourcing some of the parts, but most ar still available. The bronze bush in the rear extension for the propellor shaft yoke was never available through nissan. Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf Identification FS5W71B.pdf

Yes. Make a note on witch direction you need to turn the distributor, remove it and correct it with the course adjustment. Have you checked the vacuum and mechanical advances are returning to their start postitions?

Better to remove the distributor to adjust the rear screw and then do the timing again.

Good to hear you found the problem. Your timing issue is probably a incorrsct positioned distributor mounting plate. The distributor has two adjustments. The one you use on the front side of the distributor and the other is at the back. The back one is hard to get to and under the distributor. It's an M5 with a 8mm hex head. See photo. Please note the plate in the photo is for a 280ZX and looks a little different to the 280Z version

When I first started testing I used a elcheapo HEI from Alliexpress for 10 euro. It worked, but gave up after a week testing. It could be the HEI.

That is a strange problem you are having. I have had nothing like it, except the reverse red and green wires stopping it revving past 2500 - 3000rpm. If I had to guess I would think it would be something with the HEI, but never heard of one going like that. What brand HEI is it?