EuroDat

Things to consider if you don't want to spend a lot of time working on the car and still want a 5 speed. Look for a 5 speed out of a 280Z or a 280ZX 2+2. They are both "wide ratio" FS5W71B transmissions. It will give you a first gear that is fairly close to your 4 speed. Still high, but close. The 280ZX Coupe "close ratio" FS5W71B will feel like you skipped first gear and started off is second. Try that with your 4 speed and see how it feels to start off in second gear. The next step would be to look for any 240Z, 260Z or a the 280Z after 77 with an automatic transmission. They have a 3.545:1 R180 diff and it is a direct replacement for you 3.364:1 R180. The 5th gear will still be taller than the original 4th, improving highway fuel economy, and give you better off the mark performance. They are the quick and easy mods. I can post an excel file on the ratios later when I am home if you want them. If you go "close ratio" then you will want to change the diff to something like the R200 3.7:1 or 3.9:1, but that is a more involved mod.

That is correct. You also need to make special brackets to mount the top section. It is actually better to make a grill out ot the 280Z grill parts and the bars and top brackets from the 240Z. I extended the grills I made to fill the gap under the bumper. I am thinking about redoing mine after improving the design on the last two. If you go to page two in my thread, from post 28 onwards, you can see the alterations. You could also use the Skillard grill. I sent my brackets to a couple members so they could fit those grills. If anyone wants info in that, just send a pm. https://skillard.com/products/datsun-280z-front-grill-with-turn-signal-delete https://skillard.com/products/datsun-240z-front-grill

If you need any tips, info or photos, ask away.

Grill: Yes, Bug will need some modifications. Valance: No 240Z indicator: Possible. With air-dam. To fit a 240Z grill you need to remove the 280Z indicators and preferably the supports. The two outer sdctions of the valances will fit, but the valance center section is too high and hit the frame section undrr the larger 280Z radiator. If you use an air-dam for the 240Z, you can fit the 240Z indicators. The air-dam is low enough the cover the frame and doesn't curve back like to original valance. If you go this route, don't forget to get the two 240Z wiring harness with lamp socket. They ard different to the 280Z and the sockets won't fit. How do I know all this. Been there, done that..... Here is my thread on it. Success.

Welcome to the club. The number on the transmission doesn't mean much. It's the batch number for the transmission housing. They probably could track components with that number back then, but that information is long gone. If it's a manual 4 speed, then you will have a F4W71B transmission. The original 5 speed is FS5W71B and often referred to a the "wide ratio" 5 speed. Chas How to identify - F5W71B Wide and Close ratio transmission (2) (1).pdf

Not sure what you are referring to: Use original bumpers? You could, but it's just hard finding a good set of 70-72 240Z bumpers. They are getting harder to find, in good condition. For as little as $500 you can have a new aftermarket set. Or fitting 240Z bumpers: The 280Z frame mounting points are different to the 240Z. You can not use the 240Z mounting brackets. There are brackets available to fit 240Z bumpers to a 280Z. I make them for starters.

For the bumper conversion you could buy a set of after market bumpers from futofab or acompany in Vietnam are selling them too. You will need an airdam or modify the 280Z grill. Check this thread for the Vietnam bumpers. Someone here is selling a set on this site atm. www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60079-ss-bumpers-from-vietnam/?tab=comments#comment-549680 I converted mine to the 240Z bumpers and fabricated my own brackets.

I know what discussion you guys will have when he gets his P plates ?

To be honest, I thought life would get in the road before you would get this far. Dedication, nothing less. Congrat George.

If you plan to "stay somewhat stock" I wouldn't spend to much time trying to figure out how to fit a 6 speed. It's just not worth it. Look for a 280ZX coupe with a "close ratio" 5 speed and grab the R200 diff while you are at it. The 5 speed in the 280ZX coupe is known as a close ratio and the diff has 3.7 or 3.9 to 1 ratio which makes a nice sporty combo in the S30 models. You will need to find a donor 280Z for other parts. The diff in your automatic 280Z is a R180 with 3.545 to 1 ratio. It will work fine, but it's a little high for the close ratio and slow of the mark. It's is the standard diff ratio for the "wide ratio" 5 speed in the 280Z and 280Z 2+2. See document for the different FS5W71B transmissions. How to identify - F5W71B Wide and Close ratio transmission (2).pdf

My personal preference would be, fill it to the bottom of the filler plug. If the oil level is low and not splashing around as much, it won't be splashing around the gears either. I would be a little more concerned about everything getting enough lubrication. Fingers crossd for your repair. Pulling the transmission to fix a leaky O-Ring is a right PITA.

There is a thread about the Kia sportage seals. I have them on my 280Z for a couple of years now. Very happy with them and only $12.50 each from KIA in South Korea. See post 134 and 135 for my comments.

If you are using the same pressure plate and collar that came out of the 4 spead set up, than you should not have any problems with the height. If the slave cylinder is not leaking and moves in and out freely, than there is no need to replace it. Can you check the fork travel? It should be about 16mm, give or take a couple of mm. If it's less than 12mm, you will most likely have issues with disengaging and gears grinding like reverse. You should be able to push the slave cylinder rod into the slave cylinder about 10mm. If you can not do that you need to do some adjustment checks. Two things can cause that. 1: The clutch fork is not seated on the pivot properly. 2: The master cylinder in not adjusted properly and not returning far enough to open the resivour port. It's not likely to be your master cylinder because it was ok before the tranny swap. Other items that can cause your problems: - Dry input shaft splines. The clutch disc can not slide along the shaft and away from the flywheel. This causes the disc to drag on the flywheel and feels like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Well one side of the disc is not disengaging. Did you try the clutch disc on the input shaft splines before fitting the transmission? - A dry binding spigot bearing (bronze bush or sometimes a ball/needle bearing in the back of the crankshaft) will cause the same problems. It's rare and doesn't happen often. Both these problems will need removing the transmission to fix. I would leave this as a last resort. Try all the easy stuff first.

Sounds like you might have a problem with the clutch release bearing collar. Did you use the one on the 4 speed or the one that came with the 5 speed? There are several different lengths available for the Zed transmissions and easy to mis-match to the wrong pressure plate. They match the pressure plate and not the transmission. A mistake a lot of us have made at one time or other. You can check the position of the clutch fork. Should be about 110mm from the front of the transmission and the fork should travel about 16mm +/- 3mm. So 110mm and with clutch pedal depressed 126mm. If you have the wrong collar, the tranny will need to come out again.

0.03" is acceptable. The front bearing is not a prsss fit, so you will always have a little movement in the clearance and the C3 tolerance in the bearing itself. Like Mark said, the pilot bearing/bushing in the crankshaft aligns the input shaft. Check it before you fit the transmission. If it is a bronze bush, lightly grease it before installing the transmission. If it is a bearing, it should turn freely.

I wonder why some people do this. Is it because they want to prove it's do'able or simply more money than sense?

It took him 13 minutes to tell us he drove the car for 26 days in the last 7 months. Sell it, move on. Another youtuber asking, please subsribe, please follow me. Thats when I DON'T....

Yer, I noticed that as well. It's three in your screenshot and the color diagram. Looks like the color changdd in the branch off in the loom. Thats (not) great for tracing wiring.

Hi Joseph, The write-up on your site looks good, and clear so most will understand. If we can determine the month when Nissan changed over to the three brown wires, that would help most people with the 76 model 280Z's. We all keep saying 76 and 77-78 model, but that could be interpreted as December - January. All the information I read points to the change taking place in July - August.

If the outer striking rod o-ring is leaking, it will be hard to find something that will cure it. You might be able to reducd the leakage to an acceptable level. The striking rod inner seal is a simple lip seal. It should be easy to find and Nissan still sells them. ID:14mm, OD:20mm Width:4.2mm. Have a look at the list I attached in post#2. The first section in the list is the "Transmission Shift Control" and lists all these parts with sizes and Nissan part numbers. Chas

Unfortunately you can't fix the leak without removing the rear extension housing. That means dropping the transmission out of the car. It is leaking from the Striking rod O-ring seal. The O-ring size is 24x2.5mm (ID x Cross section) and is also the same size as the O-ring on the speedo adapter. The O-ring 32710N has a Nissan p/n: 32830-20100. The o-ring has probably hardened over the years and no longer providing a good seal. The rear gear set for 5th and reverse churn up the oil and splash around. That is why it leaks even though is high up on the transmission. See parts list in attachment for the O-ring. Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf

No problem at all. One of the good things about this forum is we get to discuss issues like this. I find it interesting reading and I have learnt a lot about these fusible links the last couple of days.

I think I see what Zed head is saying. If you look at the drawing, the number 5 points to the rear two fusible links and the front engine side link. Number 6 points to the fender side link. That all makes sense now we know the layout is 3 brown links 0.3mm2 and one black link 1.25mm3. Looking at the table, I read Key number 5 is one link with 1.25mm2 rating and key number 6 is three with 0.3mm2 rating. When you look at the documentation, you find a number of inconsistencies or mistakes. For people that know the cars and worked out the problems it's not a issue, but for someone new to these cars, it's confusing at least.

Just reading this now and see I made a typo. I should have went to bed about 30 minutes before that post. I meant August 1976, or I believe the change was around that point. That would mean there are cars built after August 76 with the 77/78 fusible link layout.

I remember buying an air dam for $190 and shipping was $285, because it was oversize. I received an e-mail stating the air dam was in the ciuntry and I had to pay €14.95 administration costs before they would process it, which I paid. They then sent me an e-mail saying the taxation office wanted 21% tax for the air dam, shipping and admin charges. Back then the Euro would buy $1.31 so I had to pay something around €78 in taxes. That air dam ended up costing me a little under $600. I think at least 40% of my restoration costs go to shipping alone.