EuroDat

Would a simple diagram like this help clear it up?

Yer. That would be a right balls up. Swapping the 1.25 for a 0.3. Another thing is we keep saying 77 and 78, but as far as I can make out the change happened in August 77 ot there abouts.

I thought the wiring diagram at the back of the 77 pdf was incorrect. It shows the black link in the rear fusible link houder. It makes sense that the black link (1.25) would be in the front holder for the fuse block. Ps. Captain, Those link holders look new. Very nice. It's appears to be confussing for Courtesy Nissan as well. I quoted my build date and VIN number, and they sent the set in the photos.

The 77 manual is where I found the differences, and the carpartsmanual website. If you look in the 1977 pdf in the download section here you can find the description of the different colors on page 501 or section BE-6. They are different to the wiring diagram in the back on page 680. The parts list in carpartsmanual has two descriptions. 1st. (Pos 5& 6) http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/wiring/engine-room-(from-aug-76) 2nd. (Pos 18 & 19) http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/electric-unit-switch/section-1/280z

Back in 2014 I purchased a set of fusible links from my local Nissan dealer. They sourced the parts from Coutesy Nissan. Wayne is buzy with an update of his electrical diagram and this was a point of discussion. Im not sure if they changed the colors, but the set I received is: 1x Black p/n: 24161-A0100 (YAZAKIFLWX-1.25) 1x Green p/n: 24161-28500 (YAZAKIFLWX-0.5) 2x Brown p/n: 24161-Y0100 (FTX-0.3) In (brackets) are codes on the link insulation. The brown have a different number compared to the manual,. They are brown instead of the original red. That could explain the different part number. Refering to the parts manual en Waynes color electrical diagram. According to the parts manual Pos 19 is the two (outside) links A and C with a value of 1.25 Pos 18, link B and D have two values, which doesn't make sense, 0.3 and 0.5. That corresponds with one brown 0.3 and the green 0.5. Did nissan get this mixed up? Looks like I should have two blacks for A and C, one green for B and one brown for D. That doesn't match the three reds and a black on the diagram. Could be just color changes over the years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks Eurodat

Yes, I left everything (Ballast resistor) intact and bridged it over so I could use a 12v coil when I did mine. The coil in the photo was the old resistor coil, whicjh I changed shortly after the photo.

Looks familiar. Neat workmanship. Btw. It will work on all of the 280Z TIU systems up to Aug 77, it only needs one pickup. After Aug 77 they changed the terminals to a plug connector.

I have to admit, it has some neat body molding work, just not my taste. If you want a porche, save up and buy one. I'm not into using a datsun or what ever to clone an "exclusive" sports car.

Crape. That looks like something out of that old series Logans run. Mmm, I might be showing my age with that statement

I don't think you will get it off in any usable condition. They knurl the shaft (like Zed said) before they mold the plastic gear to it. Well that was the old brocken one I had on the fs5w71c transmission. Can't see any reason why the earlier units would be any different. Can you use the Z speedo adaptor? If the cable fits, would be the easiest option.

If you have any questions. Feel free to ask. Most of the parts in my list were for my 71B, but will fit the 71C. Main difference is the selector control section and the front cluster shaft bearing. The bearing kit will have all the main bearings, front gasket and rear oil seal. Optional are the synchro rings (Baulk rings). I ordered all the parts through Nissan with the exception of the Omega rear extension bush. You may not need these parts, but I would reccomend replacing all the seals and o-rings. Most of them are not included in the bearing revision kit. See photos for the bearings, synchros and rear extension bush.

I found my document with all the part numbers. It's in 2012, so the prices won't be valid and some parts are now nla. Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf

Hi Odinspeenbone Welcome to the forum. As you probably already noticed, plenty of willing members to offer advice where needed. Looking at your photos, I would rebuild it. You mentioned in your first post, you found a tooth or a piece of one. Most probably from the reverse gear. The reverse gear can look very ragged, and still function well. Can you post a photo of the piece and maybe locate where it came from? Points to check before going forward with rebuild. - Look for cracks in the gears. A small chip will be ok, but cracks and signs of shattered teeth are a red flag. - Syncho rings. Was the gearbox changing gears without grinding befoe the bearing fell apart? If not measure the rings against the specs, see manual for guidance. The external teeth look OK on the photos, but that is not what makes a good synchro ring. The small grooves on the inside are important and the wear is determined by measuring the distance between the synchro cone and the gear. Note: Be carefull running your fingers around the inside. The small grooves can be razor sharp, especially on new rings. If the synchros are within spec, you only need a bearing kit and seals. - Once it's all dismantled, check the shafts are straight and within tolerance. Bent shafts can caused the transmission to jump out of gear. Didn't do it with worn bearing because the worn bearings had enough play to compensate. - Use a good quality GL-4 transmission oil suitable for brass synchro rings. Redline MT-90 or the GM transmission oil are commonly refered too. The GM part numbers are AC DELCO USA p/n: 88900399. GM USA p/n is: 12377916. I can post the part numbers for all the seals if you want to order then individually. Best would be to order a bearing kit and the rest of the seals, o-rings separately. A kit like this would be what you would want for the bearings. They also sell bearing kits with synchros, but I have had poor performance from the aftermarket rings and endd up sourcing the rings from Nissan. DTS-BK133 $129.89 http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan_f5w71_overhaul_kit.html

Yes, I have given up trying to figure that out. Datsun/Nissan had 4 different part numbrrs from 12-1974 through to the last S30 in 78, but JECS seemed to have used their own numbering system when you look at the MSA site. I have four units and I have run three of them om my car and they all worked fine. I had to jig the fuel switch to run two of them. It might be a case of parts swapping and JECS just keeping track of it that way. Or minor improvements for emmisions etc. The 22680-N4202SV is the Bosch unit and I have seen it referred to as the A31-000-050 I have a A31-000-427 (p/n:22680-P6600) from a European 280ZX na from 1981. Those numbers don't show up anywhere on the two lists for US models. So if you look at the 280ZX na version as well, the list is extensive.

It's a bosch unit. That is a Bosch symbol next to the "+" symbol. I think OHMIC desrcibes the type of contact used to measure resistence and therefore vane position. "Generally the term "ohmic contact" implicitly refers to an ohmic contact of a metal to a semiconductor, where achieving ohmic behaviour is possible but requires careful technique" https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohmic_contact

The three bolt pattern version is most probably the early bosch type. Or they are using 3.0L Alfa, Mercedes, Pergeot, Opel AFM's as cores.

The ONLY website I can recommend for doing any kind of adjustment to the afm is atlanticz. Many thanks to @240260280z for putting in all the effort and sharing. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ One piece of advice. I have four of these afm's, all from different years 1976 to 1982 and only one was off (given some tolerences in meassuring) when I followed the steps mentioned in the "water calibration". The glue on the screw was also clearly tampered with. Someone had played with it before. Do the water calibration CHECK before you start adjusting. Btw: Contrary to what some people my think, this is not aperformance adjustment. It will make the engine run in tune, but decreasing the spring tension to mislead the ecu won't give you more horsepower. If you have problems with "ECU drift", there is a modification in the temperature sensor resistance to compensate for that. The only real differences I know of in the 75 to 77 AFM's is the blow back valve in the early version/Fed version. The very early 12-74 to 06-75 are actually Bosch units. Some photo's of one of my afm's and the calibration check.

Yes, it will work. All afm's before Aug 1977 will work fine. Like zKars said, the ones after July 1977 on the 280Z and 280ZX don't have the fuel pump switch. Thay also have the seven pin connector, but miss two pins.

I have seen this document before. Page nine has the most compatable injectors for our 280Z. The 116, 117 and 118 will bolt in. 105 is a comon replacement for a lot of the 11* numbers 116 are from the Alfa spider 2.0l and US beatle with AJ motor etc. 190cc/min @3.0bar 2.4ohm 117 In the bosch catalog replaced the 116. Why I don't know. It was then replaced by the 105... 118 are for Jaguar (p/n:ULC2691) 190cc/min @3.0bar 2.4ohm 119 are for Porche (p/n: 92360610900) 200cc/min @3.0bar 2.4ohm. It also fits a lot of Alfa Romeos, Land Rovers, Range Rovers, Opel Commadores, Kadets, Mantas etc the list goes on. Replaced by the 105. You can find a lot of this information on the Bosch site in their catalog. http://www.bosch-automotive-catalog.com/en_GB/product-detail/-/product/0280150119 If you google any of those numbers you will find NOS stock. That is how I came across a set of bosch 116 injectors.

I have never seen one or heard of anyone seeing one. It seems to coinside with the change to the N47 head. My guess, it's probably prep werk, but never made it further than that. The developers probably thought, "if it becomes a problem, we can offer it as an option or do a recall, and the harness will be ready." I think trying to find one would be like trying to find a woolly mammoth;)

I have wondered about this sub harness option as well. Those same wires are in my harness too. I thought it might be for the AC, but my Californian car has AC and no optional cooling fan. Could it have been an option for the cars sold with the tow bar? Or maybe the developers thought the N47 heads would have heat problems in certain areas with lead free fuel and exhaust liners generating more heat? I am yet to see one or even a photo of one. A while back, I toyed with the idea of running a 280ZX fuel injector cooling fan from this circuit and using a delayed shutoff relay. I have the fan, but it's way down on my to do list.

I was wondering when the tractor would show itself. LOL. What! No snow chains on the three wheeler?

Before this thread gets nasty. The op posted photo's of a set of 280Z quarters. They are quarters for a 280Z or am I missing something. No recess or indentation for the 240Z bumpers. The 240Z quarter recess around the bumpers could be transplanted to these. The section around the bumpers is generally less rust prone, I beleive.

In the original post are two 280Z quarters. Which year 280Z? They changed about half way through the 280Z series. They might have been when they changed the bumpers. Not really fare comparing them with 240Z quarters. I don't know what 280Z quarters are worth, but they probably won't fetch as much as 240Z panels. Won't be far behind them in price either. Can you read anything on the white label on the last photo? Just because it's black, doesn't guarantee it's nos. Still look really neat. Goodluck with your sale.

First pass. Wow that stripper really does its job. Looking good.