EuroDat

From what I have heard about Scarabs, they can be ordrred as a kit where you could build it yourself or you could have Scarab modify your car. I think Scarab wasn't mass producing these cars, but they were "custom" made to order and the customer could select mods to suit their our desires. I can remember seeing a post with an ad where you could order a V8 kit from Scarab for a Ford or Chevy V8 iirc and you supplied the engine. That would leave it open to all kinds of engine configurations. If that is the case, it would be near impossible the difine a Scarab as a particular model and option pack. And a "real" Scarab would only be valid with the original documents stating the options the S30 received. @Randalla I think it's a great project you have going here. Even if it has a fuzy history.

Chris, you might do yuorself a favor by leaving it alone and let Matt have a look at it. You still have other work to do, which you are very good at. I look at it this way. I could spend a lot of time and frustrating effort doing it myself, or get someone that knows what he is doing do it for me, then spend my time on the stuff I can do. Oh and it has taken me years to figure that out. Im a hard learner....

Looking great Mark

Hi All. I ordered the connector plug from vintage connectors. http://www.vintageconnections.com It's the connector plug that connects the main harness to the efi harness under the dash. Very efficient. Ordered the connectors on the 25th and they came in today the 31st. They shipped through USPS which also kept the costs down low. I should have my exhaust fitting for the O2 sensor welded by tomorrow. All goes well I can try to start it up over the weekend.

Most probably due for a change. I changed it 5 years ago and the new fluid was a greenish colour. Should have replaced, or striped the master cylinder down and shrub the inside clean, when I did the slave and hose. So many things on my to do list atm.

Thanks for the offer Munters. I sent the link from Vintageconnections to a friend with a celica. He wants to place a an order and I will try to order a connector there. In the mean time Ill use simple crimp connectors to get it running. If the vintageconectors don't work out, I'll send you a pm. Didn't have much time today, but managed to clean up all the wiring and wrapped it in a simple spiral wrap to keep it tidy and allow easy access. Finished the relay and fuse block and made a bracket to mount the ecu and fuel pump relay /coil driver. I was hoping to mount the new ecu in the old case, but that proved to be too much trouble. Eventually the kick panel will be fitted with an enlarged hole to check the ecu indicator lights and cover up the mess. I disconnected the TIU since the coil driver will take over. The coil driver is going through the original harness and connecting via the old ECU blue trigger wire in the photo above. Stil have a couple of things to do before starting: Distributor advance and phasing, and fitting the new exhaust system plus welding in the O2 sensor fitting. Tonight I'll play with the maps and download them tomorrow so it will start and run.

Sounds like age is catching up on your fuel system. I would replace all the rubber hoses to, while you are at it. Remember it's running at a reasonably high pressure and a leak can spray a lot of fuel in a short time. If a fire starts, it's generally the end of it. Would be apitty after the body work.

That sucks. I thought you had it beat. I wonder what is wrong inside. Probably the order of assembly. Another good reason for a simple piece of paper with instructions..... Good luck with finding a suitable replacement.

I took some photo's of the progress I made, the last couple of days. 1. Pipe with air temperature sensor to replace the AFM. 2. MAP sensor to replace the AFM function. Testing position of the O2 sensor. I wanted to fit it in the EGR port, But there was not enough space between the manifold and the firewall for this type of O2 sensor. TPS. It was already fitted last year, but now it's wired and the ECU is reading the signal when I move the throttle. Realy and Fuse block to power the ECU.

Thanks @munters for the offer. Btw: It is the 6x 6.3mm spade, non-latching connector plug. @ZupThanks for the link. I had forgotten about them. Browsed through their website and found some other connectors and a couple for a mates Celica. Im glad I don't have to hack it off my harness. I would like to keep it, kind of just in case.....

Mmm thats funny. Mine is backwards and the original, I replacdd as well. I can remember it binding a little when I tried it the other way around, so I checked the old one on some photo's and mounted it the same way. It's still a mystery to me why it's shaped like that.

Your top photo where it is facing towards the front has it in the right direction. It should be leaning forward at the top, if that makes sense. I can post a photo of mine later. I'm not sure why they made them like that. Maybe someone can explain why? Your bracket turned out nicely. Looks straight, and no distortion from the welding, which can happen easy on thin metal like this. Trim if up a bit and a coat of paint and it will look neat.

Well it's been a while, but Im back at it. What I have done so far: - Removed the AFM and made a tube with the air temperature sensor. - Removed the AAR and CSV. Not sure if I want to use a stepper motor like the bosch units in the 2003 - 2009 Land rover of simmilar device for cold starting. - Fitted the map sensor. - Made an adapter to mount the O2 sensor in the downpipe. Getting that welded in on Friday. - Stripped one bolt of the three bolts in the down pipe flange. The other two nuts came off ok and I removed the studs without breaking them. - Removed the TIU. The new ECU will activate the coil through the blue wire that went to the old ECU. - Fitted the Relay (with coil driver). This is an intelligent relay. It will run the pump, but cut off when the engine stops. When the relay see a 5 volt active signal from the ECU, it will run the pump 5 seconds and then wait until it receives a pulse from the coil. Nice and safe. - Wired in the original temperature sensor and distributor pick-up. Thermotime not required. - Dissabled the vacuum, but still need to remove the springs in the mechanical advance. Check the rotor phasing. Ill take some photo's over the next couple of days. So far it's cost me €420 for the ecu kit (ecu, relays, map, air temp sensor, 4 wire bosch O2 sensor & harnesses) + shipping + tax. Extras like heat shrink, 1.0, 1.5 & 2.0mm2 wire, variable 3-pin tps, pipe to replace AFM etc etc has set me back about €100. Looks like it will be a little under €550 ($600) when Im done. I'm currently searching for the terminal connector on the EFI harness to connect to the dash loom. The one on my harness is in good condition, but I dont want to hack up the harness. If someone has an old harness, that has been used for spare parts, and still has this terminal block, I would like to buy it if possible. Here are some photo's of the connector.

Mark, You're going to need therapy when this car gets its first scratch. So much detail, I think I would have lost interest in sanding a long time before starting on the rails.

My 77 280z has the "later" model. I just checked two others I have, one from a euro 260Z, and one from a 280Z, and they both are the "later" model. See photo of spare units I didn't know there were two variations.

Hi Sean, Welcome to the club and congrats on your recent purchase. We all go through some kind of efi problem on these cars, so why should yours be any different. I think its part of the fun of owning these cars. These cars are not that complicated to work on, but you do need to learn some basics about them and ask questions. The biggest issue for us is we don't have any figures to go on. You manually controlled the AFM. I take it you removed the black plastic cover and pushed it open. If so, that would suggest it is not getting enough fuel. Because you falsly told the ecu it was getting more air. it supplied more fuel. A lot of small things can cause these problems. It could be as simple as bad, corroded connections, but it could also be a sensor. I would start by downloading the 1980 EFI supplement from the downloads section on this site and go through all the tests in it. You will need a multi meter and some basic knowledge on using it. Don't forget the note the values and avoid giving info like "I did the tests and they were ok" . It should be 210 to 280 and I measured 225. Check out this site for how to clean efi connections. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

They ask €575 for the last one I seen sold over here. It went quick too.

That is a four speed transmission. The cover plate on the selector rod gives it away. I made this simple guide a while back to help identify the two 5 speed transmissions, wide and close ratio. How to identify - F5W71B Wide and Close ratio transmission.pdf

Hi Kutukutu1, I came across a list I made last year when I replaced my EFI connectors. It is probably too late to be any benifit to you, but maybe someone else reading this later well fing it usefull. Ill post it in the Technical documents later. Bosch EFI Connectors (EuroDat 2016).pdf

Homer Simon moment. . I get them a lot lately

I can remember a thread in the past about someone changing one after a brake upgrade. Philip posted a nice photo of the valve then, but I can't find the thread on my tablet. Ill have to do a search next time I am on the laptop. I would like to see what Philip turns up with. There was a discussion, I think on this site four or five years ago, about changing the spring and then we decided it was not worth it because the valve was not really a proportioning valve, but a delay valve so to speak. Not many people try to repair them. Most just swap them for a manually operated aftermarket proportioning vavle. I pulled my "later" version apart and cleaned it along with the brake indicator switch. It is a completly different design and function.

Good idea Namerow. It might be a tight fit between the valve stem and the spring to get a blade in and cut the line. I was thinking something like that with the circlip, but the circlip here is some bodgy style clip without the eyes. If you were to swap it for one with two eyes you could then use fishing line to compress the circlip, push the spring and circlip into position and release the fishing line. Of course I have never done it, so the technique sounds solid, but reality could prove to be way different.

Ok, Thanks for posting the photo. Thats the kit from motorsport I believe. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21j/24-5556 It's the first time I have seen someone use that kit. Following with much interest;). I can understand your dilema with the circlip.