EuroDat

The "proportioning valve" on the early 240Z, mounted at the rear, is actually more like a hydraulicly operated timer than anything else. The cylinder compresses the spring and fills with fluid. This essentually delays the rear brakes and allows the front brakes to engage first. When you let off the brake (pedal) the fluid looses pressure and the cylinder returns. That is when the system is clean and in good condition. Now 45 yeaes later a lot of these valve cylindees are seized in the loaded position and no longer reset. I have never seen one of these proportioning valves apart. Most people change to a willowwood adjustable and replace it or move it to the engine bay just after the brake switch. Can you post a photo of the kit?

Hi asim, Welcome to the club. You are most probably the only member from Pakistan. Regarding your questions about swapping parts. The S30 series, which is the 240Z, 260Z and the 280Z use a lot of common parts and in general very tolerant to swapping parts between all three models. To give you a good correct answer, we need more info on the two cars. Is the 260Z an USA version, and is which year is the 280Z? For example. The 280Z changed the engine cylinder head from an N42 to an N47 in May 1977 which means your exhaust manifold for the SU's will not fit the later cylinder head. The interior is mostly interchangable, but they did change the armrest and move the position of the doorlock on the 280Z. You will come across a lot more small differences along the way, but there are work arounds. Btw, We are very fond of photo's.

Hi Jai. Unfortunatly my family knows all to well what you are going through now. I mentioned earlier in this thread that our 14 year old four legged friend Kylie was not going too well. She took a turn for the worse and we had to put her to sleep yesterday in the middle of the night. She went with the four of us by her side. She has had problems with a leaking heart valve for a while and that suddenly deteriated. She had diffuculty breathing and that was getting worse by the hour. I will miss her a lot.

Love your Mustang. Loks clean and neatly done. I would only have to hint it to the wife and she would be down at the car yard trading the Zed in for a mustang. She doesn't realy like the Zeds. I can't understand why. Either car, I would still be in the garage playing with it.

I think the problem shifting it is in the model. Not many want the 2800ZX (S130) and a lot different to the 240Z - 280Z (S30). The S30 guys mostly want the turboed engine, diff half shafts, maybe brakes. If I was in the area, I would take it in a second, but I'm on the other side of the planet....

Looks really neat Mark. Very nice line even without the final paint it looks impresive.

Well Dave. I just went through a similar drama. I needed to remove the down pipe so I could weld a nipple to fit the O2 sensor for my aftermarket ecu. Broke one stud, the second nut screwed off and the last stud screwed out of the manifold. I had to remove the manifolds, but was very lucky no broken studs. I didn't remove the injectors or fuel rail and the harness was already removed. I took the manifold to work and used an "easy out" with the oxy torch to get the broken stud out. The three new studs Nissan p/n: 14064-N420A are a little different and a little longer than original. They came with brass nuts so they should not seize as easily. I don't get to spend much time on the car lately and this "weld M18 nipple in downpipe step" set me back almost three weeks with the extra work and waiting for parts.

That engine would sell quick. Someone has already taken the injectors, but the rest looks like its there. Like JSM said, You could make easy $1000 buy pulling the engine, ecu and the efi harness and selling the parts or half that if you let the engine go complete. Its an auto so the engine, diff (R180 3.545:1 ratio) and half shafts have had an easier life than they would with a manual. If you don't want to do the work and no one wants to pick it up, you can strip the easy parts. A short list for starters (going by the photos): ECU. AFM (Air Flow Meter) Distributor EFI injector cooler fan (on other side of engine with pipes over vavle cover) Oil pump. Engine bay trouble light Maybe the Fuel pump. (Rear passender side. Stanley knife, pliers, 12mm socket) That stuff will take about 1 - 2 hours to remove and sell easy. It would be a shame to let it all go to the crusher. Hope someone picks it up.

Sorry to hear. We lost our dog some years back to kidney failure. The dog we have now is 14 and starting to show the signs of age. Sad.

Wow. Your car looks like its coming alone very nicely. Like the big exhaust.

Looking good Chris, really good.

I have a light weight flywheel. Its more to compensate for the heavier 240mm pressure plate and clutch disc. I had it lightened in a shop that does that a lot. Mine is not as light as the fidanza aluminium units https://fidanza.com but I didn't want it to be. I think they are a little too light for street use. Not very drivable down low in the revs. If you prefer to drive with the engine mostly in the 1500 to 3500 rpm band then I would not go for a lightened flywheel. A lightened flywheel will help acceleration and deacceleration. The engine will react more to any throttle movements.

its a close ratio "B" transmission. Seems like European prices. It might pay to look a little further. Also depends on who is selling it. We have had some discussions about some vendors on this forum and the experiences some people have had with warranty.

Always use the throwout bearing collar that goes with the clutch. If you use the 240Z clutch, use the 240Z throwout bearing collar. Its the pressure plate height that is different, not yhe transmission. If you want a close ratio than any NA Coupe after August 79 will be fine. I find it hard to believe you will notice the difference between the 5th in the 1980 model compared to the 1981 - 83 model. For info: If you do go with a 2+2 it will be the same as the 280Z wide ratio 5 speed. First will be very low with a 3.7 or 3.9 diff. The 240mm clutch will work fine in a 240Z, but it is heavier. You should use a lightened flywheel if you use it. The 240mm has a lot more grip, but keeps a soft clutch pedal like the original clutch. I use one with a lightened flywheel and I like it. I made this table a while back to help me finding a suitable transmission. It might be some help to you looking for a transmission.

A lot of stuff is still available. You need to stop thinking Datsun and look for Bosch components. For the TPS 3-pin plug google "Bosch Connector Plug Kit 1237000039". Should be able to find it for $10. I found a supplier her for €9.95. The 7-pin is available via Motorsports. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17b17/11-3050 Or Bosch LK-7 connector for the 3 Channel Ignition Module https://milspecwiring.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=592 Thermotime & temp sensor: I tried the temp sensor cable kit like from Banzai (I purchased it through my Nissan dealer last year P/N: 24079-U8700), but not happy with it. Very hard to remove the connector once you push it on. Replaced them with the press release variety from e-bay.makes it a lot easier for testing. Cheers

Looks like you have a short through selector stick with a short eared guide. What that means is your selector has a longer section under the cotter pin and the guide ears (where the cotter pin anchors) is short. Common for people to swap these selectors to get a shorter through when changing gears. The problem is it can bind and you need to remove (grind) sections for clearance. It looks like your could be hitting. I can't really see fresh marks on the selector. To check, you can put it back together with cotter pin in place and slide a piece of paper down in there. Push it into 5th hard a couple of times and check the paper for pinch makes. The clearance you need is about the thickness of cardboard used in a Kellogs cornflakes packet. Cliff (siteunseen) posted photo's of the selectors on another thread on this site. Can't find it now. I don't know what the rubber hose is doing on the selector. I'd remove it.

I would remove both and test it. It will be noisy, but you can also see what is happening, if the transmission is moving around etc. If a transmission mount is sloppy, the transmission can move around and all you see is the gear stick jumping out of gear. The console is blocking your view of what is really happening.

If you have the console out. Remove the rubber boot on the floor and take it for a spin and see if it still does it. The boot can sometimes cause this problem, especially if the rear transmission mount is worn and sloppy. Does it clunk when you accelerate and de accelerate. A loose rear cluster gear will often make a clunk sound when it moves back and forth. Compare it with 3rd.

Looking good Mark.

I have a 3.7:1 behind a close ratio 5 speed. The tranny and diff didn't come from the same donor car. The PO did the transmission and I changed the diff. The diff improved the drivability. First was too high with the 3.545:1 diff. I like it.

You might want to check the ratio. The 79 280ZX is a bit odd in the ZX line up. 280ZX 1979 2+2 4 speed R200 3.364:1 280ZX 1979 2+2 5 speed R200 3.7:1 ( also had wide ratio 5 speed like 280Z) 280ZX GL 1979 R200 3.7:1 The coupes used a R180 with 3.364:1 ratio. The 2+2 manuals went to the 3.9:1 in 1980 and all NA manuals (coupe and 2+2) were 3.9:1 from 1981 - 1983.

Chris, I agree the 240Z is less reinforced in places, but I don't know if a 240Z or a 260Z would have been much worse. The reinforced door deflected some of the impact, but lets face it the improvements made to the 280Z are marginal compared to cars these days. And it was an S10, a bit like getting hit by a concrete block travelling at 60mph. You have luck on your side surviving such an impact in an S30. Ive weighed up the risks and try to reduce them by avoiding places were accidents occur often and drive outside peak hour when it is not so buzy. The rest is just luck I guess.

Bart is right. There is a lot of stuff that will be hard to find in the future. Things that don't seem important now could very we be worth their weight in gold, so to speak, in the future. Things like the steering rod uni's, rear brake drums, steering rack, even the bolts holding the fender along the bonnet edge are special for that area (thin heads) and often lost in careless restorations, like my PO did. It would be a bare carcass if I could get my grubby little hands on it, but then again Im a self confessed hoerder Over here that car would be considered a restorable project. It's a totally different market over here. It would never end up in a wrecking yard in such a "complete" state.

You need to go back. You forgot to get the the center valance panel. Seriously, it is getting hard to find good examples and that one, although not in clear view in the photo, looks in reasonably good nik. The horns look good. Grab the brake proportioning vavle and brake switch unit. They and both NLA and those maybe salvagable.

Your question: What is this thing and is it important? That is the EFI Main relay on the 78 model, (after Aug-77). Yes it is very important. It looks intact, but the contacts could need cleaning. If its not working properly that will be a source for the EFI not working for sure. The EFI fuel pump relay is rectangular in shape. See photo (Photo is not mine, but from another thread here under "1978 Z - Fuel pump control relay")