EuroDat

Found the other thread. And my thread

George, Hat off to you and your team for the work you have done on this car. Really impressive workmanship. Grats becoming a father. Oh and finding time for your hobbies is always going to be hard, if my experience is anything to go by. Next question: footy or cricket?

Like the ingenuity. Isn't there an energy drink bottle with a dome end that fits? I think there was a thread on that somewhere here as well.

Well, I have never done the swap, but I have spent a lot of time researching it and seen a couple of conversions on a 240Z and a 260Z. If you go power rack & pinion, you have some real options, but the main two imho are: 1. The subaru forrester or impreza. Around 2000 they changed the ratio lock to lock. It was about 3.5 and dropped down to 2.7. Ill have to dig up my info to confirm that. The 240Z and 280Z have about 2.7 lock to lock. There are some mods to do to the cross member mounting points. The Subaru racks are a little different shape for the rubber. You also need to replace the inner tie rods with Volvo S80 or Toyota Celica. The lower control arms need to be repositioned 12mm further outwards to correct the steering geomentry. The subaru rack is 25mm longer. The celica tie rods will help correct this, but not enough. If you don't do this, bump steer will be a problem. Its also an opportunity to raise the anchor point an inch if you lower the car that much. Then you will need chamber plates or shortened lower control arms to correct camber. Next is the pump and the 2000 onwards GM type II pumps seem to match the subaru rack nicely. 2. The BMW M3 series E36 is preffered because its also a 2.7 lock to lock. Can't remember what needs to done to fit it. The cross member need some modification to moutn tge rack and clear the engine mount. Ill dig up my stuff and post it later.

Hey Mark, Which method power stering are you planning to use, the Subaru rack & pinion or the electric system like grannyknot? Nice fab work by the way. Chas

Aaarh, Bonding with the son in law. So, he has past all the other tests and now he is allowed to work on your Zed Mark, Good to see you back at. Enjoy.

Hi Greg, Im with Diseazd. Are you sure he used the "correct" L28 valves? The early N42 and N47 heads had 2mm shorter valves. If you use the valves for a P79 of P90 they will be too long and need grinding. That will only be the start of your problem if he did that. That was the trick with using a P90 on a NA engine. Grind 2mm of the head, shim cam towers and valve springs 2mm and install N47 valves (2mm longer) to correct all the geomentry.

Filling the gaps should help a lot. That free movement is what causes most of your problems. The shear strength of 4x M10 bolts should handle the +/- 300lbs on the rear. The more flex in the rotisserie the more the shear force on the bolts will change to a pulling force and then it depends on how strong your threads are.

The bumper mounts should not be any problem if the rotissorie is rigid. Any flex in the rotisserie will be transferred to the mounting point on the car and like Patcon mentioned, it's made of two pressed metal layers. They will flex and you could distort that area if the rotisserie flexes too much. The connecting brace going to the front section of the rotisserie can help stiffen it up, but the rotissore also needs to be a solid contruction.

If you drive modern cars a lot, the Z will always feel wierd at first. Depending on what you want to do with the car, you could think about power steering. You can use a Subaru rack that bolts in and run the pump where the AC compressor would mount. Or the eletric option, but need to check if its legal in the UK The car looks great. Good luck with the insurance. Pitty that went bad. Dulls the enjoyment a bit when you have to chase after stuff that wasn't your fault.

I have a lot of ZX engine parts too, because a friend found an old clapped out zx and used the block and head in his 240Z. Kicking myself now for not taking the exhaust manifold and down pipe. Also have a lot of parts from a 280Z 75, but left that manifold because it was for the N42 with square ports. Ill be running the injectors in 3 groups of two, 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4. 1 pulse per revolution, 2 pulses per firing. Because I'm using low impedance injectors, they will be wired in series. If I go to the o-ring (EV6) injectors with high impedance then Ill need to use all 6 drivers. I won't be running sequential injection. Need a trigger wheel for that and if I go that route I would like to try a sensor in the backing plate measuring drill outs in the flywheel.

I noticed that yesterday as well. Never knew the 280ZX had a smaller throttle body. I haven't measured them yet. I'm basically using the ZX unit because I can work with it in the bench vice and leave the car alone. Unfortunatly I don't have any exhaust manifold to play with, so the xar will be off the road when Im working on the Lamba sensor.

Thanks captain, I might take you up on that. Im bound to run into a brick wall somewhere in the project.

Hi Chris. The software is in the download section. If you make an account you can download everything for free. I made some screen shots of the software. It wasn't connected to the ECU so it doesn't show the maps I have in it now. Should have loaded the simulator to give a better picture of how it looks. There is also an Android app for the ecu, but no apple yet. I have been picking bits out of the files of different vehicles (more than 80 in a Zip file and even more on there users forum). Im using one from a Nissan 300ZX (Z31) 6 cyl, but it had a wasted spark ingnition, so I used one from an old toyota single coil 6 cyl and plotted the 280Z distr. advance curve.

Here are an overview of the things I have gathered for this project. I was thinking about fitting the Spitstonic into one of my reserve ECU's, but I'm since then changed my mind. Ill just make a bracket to fit it where the old ECU was mounted. The link http://www.spitronics.com/shop/index.php shows basically the kit I ordered, plus a coil driver, fuel pump relay combo and a idle controller. Still waiting for the modulator vale to come in. So far the kit set me back about €250 and then €78 for the Lamba sensor, new LX507 reluctor pickup and a bosch VW golf TPS. Still not sure what I will do with the AFM. It's not needed, but I could rig it full open and leave it for a retro look or remove it altogether. My biggest problem atm is my exhaust pipe. I need to weld in a plug for the Lamba sensor. Removing the downpipe with probably mean fixing broken studs etc.

Chris. As usual, your talent in fabrication is a treat to watch. Keep it coming.

I have heard of this upgrade a long time ago. I think iirc it was done with the maxima rear disc brake setup. I think he kept the original proportioning valve as well. Can you give more details on your setup and maybe photo's. Does it work with the 14" wheels when you turn down the rotors? A lot of "upgrades" won't work with yhe 14" wheels. Im always carefull calling them upgrades. Poeple say the brake so much better, but then they often compare it to a clapped out original system that needed a rebuild anyway.

Today I was busy making a brackets for the TPS and the ECU. The throttle body is from a 280ZX and I plan to use it on the 280Z. Ill take more photo's tomorrow in the daylight. TPS Mounting block Rev2.pdf

Hi all, Some time ago a fellow member Lenny was in the process of making an aftermarket ECU which would be a bolt-in replacement for the standard ECU. It was a great idea and I was hoping it would be a success. Unfortunately Lenny was sided tracked and the project stalled. I like the retro EFI in the 280Z, but I would like to have something tunable and it’s getting harder to find good functioning parts for the 280Z. Now for so something I never thought I would do: Fit an aftermarket ECU. Now how to go about it. Which system should I use and should it be a complete swap or partial swap????? The choice soon came down to 3 systems. 1: The LinkECU G4+ Atom or the G4+ Storm. http://dealers.linkecu.com/atom 2: Spitronics Mercury 2. South African system for 2 up to 12 cylinders with lamba sensor. http://spitronicsuk.co.uk/category/install-guides 3: Perfect power XMS5B. German system for 4, 6 & 8 cylinders systems with lamba sensor. https://www.perfectpower.com/index.php/products/stand-alone/xms5a Megasquirt was not in my short list because I couldn’t find anyone locally with tuning experience. In the end I chose the Mercury 2 because a friend is using it in a Toyota and getting great results. The technical people at Spitronics are friendly and didn’t hesitate sending HEX files of different systems that would work on the L28. They had some files for a 280ZX and a L28 with EFI. You can also download a lot of stuff from their website. There are so many possibilities on the mercury(like the others) from single coil to coil on plug with wasted spark and injection pulsing twice per revolution to sequential injection. I would like to start simple with my single coil and running my Bosch low impedance injector in pairs on 3 drivers. I’m am now busy making the harness and brackets for mounting the ECU where the old unit was. To do list: 1. Assemble harness 2. Make bracket to mount ECU 3. Make adapter to fit Bosch TPS variable resistance sensor 4. Make bracket and fit MAP sensor 5. Remove AFM 6. Machine plug for Lamba and weld in exhaust pipe. 7. Remove all unused equipment. 8. Tune it enough to run and eventually dino tune. Need to drive it 45km to the dino shop with Spitronics experience. I don't have much time atm, but the car is now in for the winter, so that will give me some breathing space until March next year. I know it's a long first post. I'll post some photo's of what I have done soon Chas

Hi ZedHead, I made a tech article in the download section with the latest version.

The wierdest carburettors I have ever seen. Well Ill be damned, I thought I had efi on my 77. "The basic L28 is carburetted."

Unfortunately not my garage. Mine doesn't have those accessories

It could be a broken diaphram in the pressure plate. That is the dics with all the fingers. It's what applies the pressure to the disc. When did this nasty noise on deceleration start? Going by the symptoms you have described: Slipping clutch, Grinding into reverse and now nasty noise when decelerating. Looks more like a clutch group problem and not an adjustment problem. Clutch plates really don't like slippy in the othr direction: deceleration. Slipping would mean adjusted too tight with clutch not fully engaged and grinding gears would mean adjusted too loose and clutch not fully disengaging. Or it could be worn clutch and someone adjusted it tò loose to try to solve it that way. Do you know the history of the clutch? Checking the adjustment won't cost anything but time and will eliminate that as a posible cause to your problem.

Your problem with slipping in second through to 4th and not slipping in 1st is very typical of a worn out clutch. You generally notice clutchs slipping in the high gears much earlier than the lower gears. Its the lower gearing that helps the clutch in 1st, not wanting to get into the theory of torque and acceleration. If you are happy with the reviews and still want the Exedy clutch, I would just buy it. As to which collar is the correct one, who knows. You won't really know until you remove your transmision. Unless you know all the history of this car? If you put the pressure plate on a flat surface and place the throw bearing with collar on top of the fingers. Measure the height of the tabs for the clutch fork. It should be around 92mm.