EuroDat

If you don't know the condition or history of another gearbox, I would take this out and crack it open. If its only a bearing, then I would buy new OEM synchros and a bearing / seal kit. At least you know the history on this box and it wasn't jumping out of gear or screeming its head off at 60mph. My 2 cents.

I madecsome quick measurements of my old bearings. Looks like Zed Head is right. The cage for the main shaft adapter plate bearing is 4.45mm. If its not noisy, I would at least fit a bearing kit. See photo. Its of a 5 speed, but the bearing in question is the same. POS 29.

Aaarh A lurker. Welcome, I think.... Those pieces in the photo are from a bearing. Its the cage that holds the balls in position. You can see it in the bearings in the photo. Im trying to determine the width on the photo. Could narrow down which bearing it is. Not that it makes much difference, if those pieces are floating around in the transmission, won't be long before you do some real damage to the transmission. Does the transmission make any abnormal noises. Would think you would hear a bearing in there somewhere. I would not drive it anymore with a bearing like that especially a longish rally.

Rossiz is spot on. If you just change the front bumper and leave the valance and grill as is, its a totally reversable modification. The rear on your period 280Z however does require removing the shield above the bumper. Its spot welded to the body and will require a bodyshop to clean it up. I carefully removed mine with a spot weld drill so it can be refitted later. Your car looks in such prestine condition, I would be hesitant to make that change. Its up to you of course, its your car.

Fitted the test brackets today. Thanks to CanTechZ and Grannyknot for the measurements. Their measurements made it easy and took a lot of the trial and error out of it. Here are some photo's of the fitting. The first row is measuring where to drill the hole for the right side bracket. My 280Z has the later valance panel with the strange vertical row of bolt holes. I need to finish some drawing work and then I'm ready to make some propper brackets. If anyone is interested, let me know. I already have three plus myself.

Hope the deal on the gas tank works out. I with your mother inlaw, Im sure you can do better

I was going from my own experience which more than likely will be different for you. I have three spare AFM's and one in the car. They have ALL been tampered with. I tried two of the spares to test them and they were shocking until I calibrated them following the guide on the Alanticz website. Sad really, because I have yet to come across a problem where adjusting the AFM spring would solve it. You can read on some websites how to set the spring about 5mm to 10mm back to increase the "performance". All they are doing is richening the mixture which is most probably lean due to ECU drift or corroded contacts etc. The fist thing I did with mine was look at things (without pulling it apart) to get firmiliar with it all and read as much as I could. BTW. If you suspect a vacuum leak, Fastwomen invented a nice little test to check this. It's called the Yogurt cup test. This is not original thread, but still informative.

A little progress on the rear bumper brackets. I cut out some thin sheet metal "prototypes" to check my measurements. Tomorrow Ill fit the bumper. Then I'll be ready to mass produce this stuff.

That looks like a VERY nice 280Z. Don't see many of them still with the original radio. Thats a good sign it has not been tinkered with too much.

If you are thinking of changjng to the 240Z bumper style, I did (or should say doing) that to mine. Here is the thread on it.

Concrates. Looks like a nice find going by the photo. Same color mine was, light blue metalic color code 305. It looks like a mid year 77 with the accordeon bumpers and the AFM fuel switch. In 77 they made a lot of changes through the year. A good idea to note the year and month in your signiture. It helps others giving advice. From your description, it sounds like someone has been tempering with the AFM spring or a sticking flap. If that is what has been adjusted, it's generally a last resort at fixing fuel mixture issues and almost always a remedy to a symptom. You will learn that as you go along. Part of the experience of owning one of these cars. The link Zed Head posted to Atlanticz is great for information and how to do a lot of fault finding. A good idea to read through the site. Also shows how to calibrate the AFM. What are your plans for her?

My best guess. I dont own a 240Z btw, but I was playing with the wiring diagram. The 2 bulbs with the single red wire are the illumination bulbs. The bulb with the red and the red/black stripe wire is for the main beam light The bulb with the yellow and green wires is for the brake warning switch

Dedication. Not much left of the old Zed. I think 99% of us would have given up about half way through that project.

Thanks Chris. It would give some indication of fabrication tolerances, if any. The dimmension of the bumper bracket would be helpfull too. Just remembered that I have no side mounting point on the 280Z for reference. I'm not sure what the distande from the valance to bumper is.

Thats perfect. Thanks very much.

That exact photo threw me a bit. I have photo's of the 240Z type and that is what those are, but the left one in the photo looks like it's over set (past 90 degrees). I have not seen that on the others photos. I think the footprint of those brackets may be too big to fit the 280Z valance recess. I was thinking of buying a set to see how they would work.

Thanks, I learnt something today. Here they are just called autoventiel or A/C ventiel etc. Schrader is a brand name, a bit like Xerox is to photo copying or Hoover to vacuuming.

Aŕh ok, Ill be the noob and ask; What is a Schrader valve?

Thanks Mike. I came up with 836 with my calculations, but then I found two difeent sites stating 50mm between the bolts with 870mm ctr to ctr distance. I startd doubting myself.... again. If you could find time to measure the rear, I would realy appreciate it.

I need some help guys, I having trouble determining what the distance is between the two outer bolts (Studs) on the early 240Z bumpers and the ones from FutoFab. Im using a fibreglas bumper for now, but it has one long fits all kind of slot. CanTechZ gave me the inner distance, but Im getting contradicting information on the internet (I shouldn't be surprised) about the distance between the inner and outer two bolts. I made a sketch of what I miss. Any help appreciated. Edit: If someone has this info on the rear bumper, That would top it off nicly. Im also buzy with the rear brackets and have the same problem. Thanks FrontBumper bolt location.pdf

Good point. I find the easiest way to test this is with the handle end of a screwdriver via the aircleaner. Remove the air cleaner filter, turn the key On and push the flap open with the handle end of the screwdriver. It takes a bit of fiddling and the right size screwdriver. You should hear the pump run and pressure up the system. You might even hear fuel sissing through the FPR (fuel pressure regulator. Now that is assuming its the early 77 with the switch in the AFM. The later versions had it in the oil switch. The oil switch type has two wires going to the oil sender unit. If it only has a yellow wire with black stripes, its the AFM type.

If you check out the download section, you will find the workshop manual and fuel injection supplement for the 77 280Z. A lot of helpfull information in there.

Hi and welcome to the club. If you have a gauge you can test the system easily. Fit the gauge between the fuel filter and the line that goes to the fuel injectors. What you describe sounds line its running out of fuel directly after starting. That coud be caused by several things. just to name a threw: 1. Fuel tank full of rust and gunk blocking the fuel pickup. 2. Gunk in the pump inlet filter or in the pump if the filter has been removed. See photo. 3. Fuel filter is blocked. 4. It could be running on fuel from the cold start valve, but the injectors are clogged up and not supplying enough fuel to keep running. I would start with those simple things first.

A little background into the transmission code and what it means: IIRC (FS5W71B) F = Floor selector (R = Remote selector) S = Special overdrive top gear. No "S" than its a direct drive 1:1 top gear 5 = Number of forward gears (3, 4 and 5) W = Warner Synchros (C = Servo type synchro "Porsche type") 71 = Centre lines between Main shaft and countershaft (others 56mm, 63mm) A = Suffix number (Version: A, B, C, E & H).

I think its the difference between electronics industry and automotive electrics. Like the way we see resistors as a zig zag and in the electronics world I see it mostly as a rectangular symbol We use these symbols where I work mostly for loop sheets and such. http://www.circuitstoday.com/electronic-circuit-symbols