EuroDat

A little background into the transmission code and what it means: IIRC (FS5W71B) F = Floor selector (R = Remote selector) S = Special overdrive top gear. No "S" than its a direct drive 1:1 top gear 5 = Number of forward gears (3, 4 and 5) W = Warner Synchros (C = Servo type synchro "Porsche type") 71 = Centre lines between Main shaft and countershaft (others 56mm, 63mm) A = Suffix number (Version: A, B, C, E & H).

I think its the difference between electronics industry and automotive electrics. Like the way we see resistors as a zig zag and in the electronics world I see it mostly as a rectangular symbol We use these symbols where I work mostly for loop sheets and such. http://www.circuitstoday.com/electronic-circuit-symbols

Just for the info. The "A" transmissions in the US were 4 speeds and they changed over to the "B" somewhere in August 71. The A transmission had a three piece housing with detachable bellhousing The B transmission had a two piece housing with integrated bellhousing.

Im guessing you mean a type "B" transmission out of a 280Z or a 2+2 which is commonly known as the Wide ratio FS5W71B. The ZX Close ratio is a nicer spread, but you will find first is very tall and slow off the line it you couple it to a 3.54 diff. They work better with a 3.70 or 3.90.

Over here is a normal battery symbol. The one in the diagram is for a 4 celled battery.

Ain't that yhe truth. And it seems like the seller has a sixth sense telling him you're desperate and will eventually pay whatevrr he asks.

I would use the original OEM u-joints because they come with different sizes circlips. That way you can set the tolerances correctly. A loose (end play) u-joint with cause vibrations. Remember a propeller shaft turns a lot faster than the half shafts. Like Zed Head mentioned, you have the early pre 74 propeller shaft with replacable u-joints. You can tell by the large diameter cups and there are no burrs on the outside to hold the cup in place. You should see a circlip on the inside. They also look like after market, judging by the shape of the end cap. You can find the OEM part numbers for the circlips on www.carpartsmanual.com under the 240Z drivetrain section. The circlips only cost less than 20 cents IIRC. Less than $10 and you have enough combinations for both u-joints. Make sure you use the same circlip on opposite sides of the u-joint or you will create an unbalance situation. The original diff mount is still available. I would use the OEM. Is he saying the the u-joints and the diff mount are causing the problem? Or is it the diff mount and while you are at it, the u-joints look like they could do with replacing.

Back to my bumper bracket saga. I made a mock-up of the towing bracket with the bumper support to see if my calculations we anywhere close. The angle on the bumper face is a little off. About 5degrees. Might be in my calculations. Yuo can see it in the left image where it touched the bumper. Im also looking at fitting a bracket to mount the horns. Its the vertical line just behind the center bolt.

A while back he had their Canadian address on the site, but now it's mentioned nowhere. Might have removed it just the that reason. I contacted them about two years back and a Tina replyed via e-mail. They seemed friendly and eager to please. Thats just going by the e-mail contact. Still $250 US doesn't seem bad and they offer lots of options in colour combinations. White or gray housing plus white, grey or black rubber and the clear, smoked or amber lenses of course.

Has anyone had any experience with this company and their products. I have seem good reviews on other "niet datsun" forums, but can't recall seeing them mentioned here. http://klearz.com/240z_turn_signals $250 for a clear set 240Z front turn signals complete and $260 in amber.

Here are some photo's of the moskups when I was trying different prototypes. The bracket for the bumper follows a similar line as the original bracket on the early 240Z. It wouldn't be much more work to add the bumper brackets to the towing bracket.

You could use a washer under the screw between the coil and resistor to make a better fixing point. The resistor should be wired in between the positive terminal on the coil and the power supply. Can't tell if its connected properly by the photo's. Does it start and run?

It would be easy to add the extra bracket for the bumper. Im using a modified 240Z grill that goes the full width of the opening and all the way down to the air-dam. A bumper bracket from this location would not work or I would have to shorten two bars. That is why Im using special brackets from under the 280Z turn indicators. These brackets work with or without the 280Z indicators. If you retain the 280Z grill, it would work fine from this (280Z bumper shock) position.

When I was doing my 240Z bumper mod I noticed the horn mounts are different on the early model. HaZmatt was in the middle of his restoration when I noticed it on his 280Z. He has a 75 model and I have a 5/77. I think its somewhere late in 76 they changed this. Might be when they changed the bumper design. The early design has brackets for the horns. The later uses tabs on the bumper shocks.

It will be 6 or 8mm, haven't decided yet. I used the 2mm plate because it was on the cutter at the time and its easier to modify for testing.

Is the early 280Z tank a bolt in for 240Z?

Fitted the block in place with a couple of tack welds to check if all the dimmensions were good. I made a couple of adjustments and now ready for the final template. I liked Mikes idea with the 370Z design, but ended up going with this idea for two reasons. 1: I can fit it without removing the bumper, air-dam and grill again. 2: Fitting it would be challenging. You need to fit it between the two frame rails. It would have to be a perfect fit to avoid distorting the frame. For example; If you made it 5mm smaller to aid fitting or it contracted during welding, it would pull the frame rails closer together. I would have chose this design if the bolts were on the front of the frame instead of the side.

I can't see the gasket on the air cleaner, but after 45 years it probably wants replacing. There is a thread on this site with someone making the gasket. It was in someones restoration thread, can't remember who it was.

I not sure why they made the slots? Could be to help remove any exhaust fumes from under the rear area? The indent seems to be there since the series 1 240Z, but it changed shape a little over the models. I cant work out why they would change the bolt pattern. It wasn't used on the 280Z and I don't think it was used on the 260Z outside the US.

There has been a lot of disscussion about the series 1, 2 and 3 240Z. The 280Z has similar changes and at first glance August 77 seems to be the change over point. I often see threads getting side tracked about these differences and when they occured. A lot of good inforamtion, but its scattered over a lot of different threads and difficult to find again. This might be a goed way to collect information about these differences and share with other members. To start: Rear Panel Im making brackets for my 240Z bumper mod. The first thing I noticed was the bolt pattern for the bumper brackets. According to the parts fiche they changed around 5/77. Before 5/77 the 2 bolts were in a diagonal pattern, left low and right high. The patterns were the same on the left and right side. After 5/77 the right side bracket changed to two in a vertical line. Why they changed this is a mystery to me. It may be something to do with the 260Z outside the US. They were not used to mount the 280Z bumper. The second difference is the four slots (two long and two small) changed to one long on the left side. I have some photo's of the differences. The green car is a 76 and my red 280Z is a 5/77 (VIN: 403100). Mine is probably one of the first with this later version. This post has been promoted to an article

Thats a shame it didn't work. Would have been nice and given you and others the opurtunity to source new parts for these transmissions. I have had similar problems with the EFI fuel pumps. They look so very identical, but Hitachi changed the dimmensions ever so slightly. The parts that wear in the pumps, Bosch or Hitachi are not interchangable.

A small update. I have not had a lot of time to work on the Zed lating. Work has been buzy as well and everytime I want to make the threaded blocks, someone else was using the mill. Ill tack weld the block to the test plate and test its position. Then I can make a jig to fully weld the bolt with a thicker plate. Found a tow eye the right length. Its from a Renault Clio. The Clio is about the same weight range as the 280Z, so it should be strong enough. It should protrude about 60mm out past the bumper.

I think you can consider anywhere between March 77 and August 77 to be changeover "point". Depends on the parts, but most tend to be around July/August. They didn't decided one day to stop using all those parts in the parts bins along the assembly line and start using the new ones. More likely they just keep using them until the bin stock was depleted. If there was a lot of stock in the bins, that "superseded" part would continu a little longer. The N47 head with a spray bar is a perfect example. Its not mentiined in the documentation, but it exists. The last bits of stock from the N42 or the drilled cam arrived a couple of weeks late. I have a 5/77 with the space saver spare wheel and a flat deck. I think that section changed around July/August with the majority of the changes. Strange to see a later space saver wheel and tilted deck in a 76 model. Can you see any evidence of tampering. If it hss the space saver, which tank does it have? Fuel sender on top or in front?

Paypal or Creditcard - Then I could order stuff as well. Who uses mail order these days and cheques don't work for me either

I have not used him, he doesn't send to overseas customers. I hear from others that the quality is good. Maybe someone with first hand experience will comment. http://zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php