EuroDat

I don't think I have ever seen a NP valve in yellow zinc. I always thought they were untreated aluminium, but mine is a 280Z version. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45461-parts-for-oem-np-valve-and-brake-indicator-switch-unit/

If you go to electronic ignition. You have several styles to choose from. If you use the 280Z models, you will need some extra hardware. - The 77 280Z style uses the external TIU (Transistorized Ignition Unit). The TIU is located next to the passengers foot at the passengers kick panel in the cabin. You could mount that next to the coil or in the cabin. Cabin would be best location. - The early 76 280Z havd a dual timing for cold and warm engine temperatures. You can use this model , but it requires an extra temperature sender to change timing. The alternative here would be to wire it using one pick-up from the distributor and don't use the temperature circuit. - The 78 280Z. Same as the 77, but don't forget to take the TIU plug from the wiring harness and enough wire to solder your wiring to. This TIU uses a 6-pin connector plug, where the older units use a terminal block. You should also grab the terminal block on the inner fender where the wires from the distributor connect. - The 79 280ZX and later. There are some differences over the years, but they essentially work with the TIU built into the distributor. Its a neat compact design and you can still buy recon units from amason, advance auto & others. http://www.amazon.com/Cardone-31-619-Remanufactured-Import-Distributor/dp/B000C46L52/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan%7C67&Model=280ZX%7C875&Year=1981%7C1981&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive Atlanticz has a good write up on rebuilding and swapping then into the early S30 models. You can read up on them here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html I like the 280Z style because you have the freedom to play with the TIU. Its easy to fit a HEI module and if its in the cabin, its dry and cool. The ZX type is out in the elements and heat for 30 plus years which takes its toll. Not saying the 280Z TIU is better, just my preference. The 123ignition is a nice system, but comes at a price. I have heard of problems with the distributor cap on some vehicles and one on this forum so the datsun variant has that issue too. Don't know if its a weakness or maybe a couple of faulty units?

Shipping it fron Oz to Q8 and then to the US didn't seem to be very cost effective to me, but the results are truly amazing. If you look back at the first posts with it on the trailer and now. Good job. Grats.

WOW. I wish I had the talent and patience to body work and skim coating like that. Ill be using this thread as a step by step instruction when I do mine. Im planning on stripping it down, painting the inside and engine bay, then bring it to a body shop to paint the outside. Looks like your four leeged friend has been admiring your work too.

Im sorry if my post sounded insulting, that was not my intention. If I knew my post would have caused such a ruckus, I would not have posted it. A lot of posts after it are not helping you. I have followed the thread daily. I felt your frustration in post 69 "Nothings making sense". You also answered the question I asked back in post 68 in post 70. If one reads the first 20 and last 20 posts, there seems to be little progress, and that would frustrate me. If you follow most threads, people fix one problem and find another, then another etc. That is why I made that comment, this thread seems to be churning around the origanal question. Can you take it to a shop in your area and ask them to check it. When its in the air and you can also walk around under the car, might see something that you're missing now. That would be my next move.

Glad you chipped in 240dkw. That was the thread I was refering to, but I couldn't find the thread again. I was impressed with the work you did to it.

In post 57 you mention you have a 1" difference between left and right although the method is a bit unclear. Are you sure you have two 240Z insulators. They look similar, but the 280Z is 1" higher. That could explain the difference.

Im looking, more like lurking, because I can't help you any. Frustrating that the other end won't send it. Did they give a reason why? I had a guy in Australia wouldn't send me an air dam. He was convinced it would get damaged on the way to europe and he didn't won't the hassle and risk to his reputation. I ended up buying from MSA. The box was beaten up a bit, but the air dam was in good condition. Is your tank that bad. Maybe you can get it boiled and checked for leaks and then treated. I have seen someone here cut a 240Z tank open to clean and repair it from the inside. If you are planning to get another one, you can try anything on this one. You never know, you might rescue it.

I think the backing plates are basically identical except for the mounting point for the hardline changed somewhere around mid 72. Thats when they altered the hardline entry point in the wheel cylinders. After aug 76 the wheel cylinders changed again and the backing plates.

I wish you luck. I really do. Never underestimate them. I had one (drivers side) come out so easily I used it again. The second one took two days with a lot of cursing and frustration. I can fully understand gwri8 comments about starting another language. In the end I ended up taking it to a friends shop. With a big press and two oxy torches it finally gave up and come out of its hiding place. Hardway had something similar with one of his pins. I think he started a thread on it.

Well George, to add to chickenmans post. I think its time you bite the bullet and do something with all the info you have. Come to think of it, I think I posted something similar in one of the other threads. If you keep asking the same questions and don't move on the advice you are given, people are going to ignore you. Even on this friendly site.

Why don't just buy something like this and make your own mounting bracket. The same power source for the AC compressor can power the solenoid. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Idle-Stop-Solenoid-Rochester-Quadrajet-Carburetor-75-83-Buick-Chev-GMC-Pont-Olds-/331272717308

They seem to have drop the passing feature early somewhere in the 71 model. That was in the US anyway. The 72 didn't have the wiring for it anymore. ColorWiring240Z1971Early_TerminalBlockExample09-mar-2015.pdf

Chris, I would not call them "upgrades" more like poorly engineered bling than anything else. That is when bling takes preference over quality of your brakes. One thing to keep in mind when doing any mods to the brakes. Datsun had a experienced engineering team designing and testing the braking system and plenty of years R&D. Any of us doing an upgrade won't have this support behind us. Test runs in a parking lot won't even be close to the testing the original brakes went through. I rebuild my brakes and fitted porterfield R4-S pads and shoes. Massive improvement on the old pads and shoes. A bit pricey but worth it imo.

Hi ksechler, You're doing a really nice job. I admire your dedication in redoing work until its right. Much feel great tk have her back on her wheels again. Keep the photos coming.

If you can't find one, I have a couple here (bosch and JECS). Shipping is going to be expensive. You need to stop thinking datsun & JECS. Datsun simply copied Bosch, and I mean really copied. There are plenty of Bosch units out there for BMW, Volvo, Jag, Renault, Citoren, Alfa etc and they will fit. Try this link. Its the same as the 76 280Z. https://www.rexbo.eu/bosch/pulsation-damper-fuel-supply-system-280161006?c=100269 Sucess.

Jai, The pressure leak down mentioned in this thread is mostly a problem with hot engines. I don't think you have this problem. I have not seen you mention cranking for long periods when hot. I fitted a gauge and noticed this problem. The pressure would fall to zero in a minute. The hot engine would then cause vapour lock pushing more fuel through the check valve back to the tank. I know EFI doesn't normally suffer from vapour lock, the pressure is normally high enough to prevent it, but my gauge would read 0 psi and then its possible with a hot engine. Sometimes it would take upto 10 seconds to get it started again. When it was cold it would start reasonably quickly, but run really rough for a couple of seconds then run ok. I think that was because the cold start valve had less resistance (bigger hole) and would add fuel atlower pressures. That way it would start ok, but then rough until pressure built up. A lot of searching and I found the check valve on the internet and that solved the problem. Still have a couple spares if someone needs one. It now starts in 1-2 seconds even after sitting 2 months.

That photo has a small error. It would be better to call the " check valve " the pressure relief valve. Its meant to relieve pump pressure back to the pump inlet. It generally relieves at about 55 to 65 psi. When you clamp the FPR return line shut, the pressure you see is this relief valve pressure and not the maximum pressure the pump can produce. The check valve is in the replacable discharge nozzle.

Ill be impressed if that unit comes back to life. Its looks pretty awful in those photos. It will be interesting to see. The tank looks bad, but they generally clean up ok. Just takes a lot of work. Finding a replacement in better condition will be a challenge.

The last I heard someone driving one, a tree fell on it. I doubt this one will see too many miles. http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1092633_tree-crushes-million-dollar-toyota-2000-gt

It might be something with your brouwser. My brouwer (chrome) is ok and the link works fine. That wierd ë could be a keyboard setting. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978

I would have to agree with Zed Head on the noise issue. In racing its not so important, but for a street car it's going to be noisy. There is a thread here with a post about another option made by a company in Australia, just can't find the thread right now. If you are handy you can make it yourself. It basicly uses a front control arm inner PU bush. You need to order to bushes to get the longer section. A section of thick walled pipe (machined to suite the bushes) is welded into the cross member. A U bracket bolts onto the diff like the original and goes over the crossmember with a bolt through the pu bushes. Btw: Great job your doing. Don't see many 260Z around and your project is also specaial in the way you are removing the V8 and installing an L6. Looking good

If it has original round tops, it would also have the early pre-smog E88 or even en E31. If you get a good compression test that would give you an indication on condition. The head and the carbs are worth more than 500. It wouldn't be a bad investment if you had room to store.

I would say 9.8 volts was normal if it was cranking the engine. Sinse the starter is free wheeling, the battery is not under any high load so battery voltage will be a lot higher. The solenoid will need full power the push the starter pinion into the flywheel ringgear. Once its in position the lower voltage while cranking will be enough to hold it there. I think this is your starter problem. From your description it seems like resistance in the wiring to the solenoid. It could be a result of the crossed wire in the HEI setup where the ground and battery wires were switched. The HEI and starter solenoid come from the ignition switch, so I would start checking between the battery and the ignition switch. It could be a fusable link or a bad contact in the ignition switch.

Jai, I have no experience with insurance in the US, but over here repair companies ask a lot more for repairs when you go through an insurance company. A repairer told me he would give me 25% discount if he delt with me directly and not the insurance company.You could ask the repairer what he would prefer and if he will give you a discount.