EuroDat

I think it could be wear in the outer cable, knicks or sharp bends in the cable. This can cause the inner cable to briefly bind and as a result you see the speedo jump went it releases. The long cable tends to act like a spring. You noted a behaviour change with the new cable. Thats why I think this could be your problem. Lubricating the cable and trying to keep in as straight as possible with gentle bends will help. Diff Ratio: The 240Z had a 3.364:1 and the 280Z had the 3.54:1 R200. If you are still using the original diff you will need a yellow pinion drive for the speedo. If its black you have the one for the 280Z with the 3.54 ratio. This is not causing your bounce problem. It will mean the speedo won't give the correct speed. Chas

Better ot have a wheel alignment. The PU bushes have probably corrected sage and/or wear in the original bushes. The geomentry has changed and repositioning the steering wheel will not correct that. The rack should be centered and the tie-rod ends adjusted accordingly to give you the correct (equal) amount turns to lock. Chas

Here is a video on just that problem and how this guy got around it. I think the problem is in the cable length, but having never done this mod I can't verify that. Chas

I have an account on Hybridz and Zcar and managed to survive reativly unscaved so far. I don't post much, but what I do I tripple check for noobiness before hitting "post". Hybridz is so unforgiving. Here I can babble all I want and seem to be ignored or tolerated, Whatever it is I like it here. Chas

Nice video. When you watch the section around 1:26 you have to ask yourself who was craziest, the drivers or the public. The car slams into the tree and they don't even flinch. Certainly gives another meaning to diehard fans.

Did you end up fitting a pressure gauge in the fuel system? That would show any problems with the fuel delivery. If it stops, just pop the hood and check the pressure or run the gauge out and tape it to the windscreen during during your test runs. Any gauge capable of reading up to 50psi will do the job with a tee fitting to tap into the flex line between the filter and the fuel rail. Fuel pressure is normally betwwen 25 and 36psi depending on manifold vacuum. Chas

Quick update Steve, I can't find and more discrepancies in your hazard, brake light diagram. Not that Im much of an expert on 240Z wiring, but Ill let you know if I find anything. BTW. Thanks for posting the link, it helped clear up some things Chas ColorWiring240Z1971Early_TerminalBlockExample09-mar-2015.pdf

Mine is the same. It runs perfectly without the resistor installed. I don't know if it ran without it before I did the GM HEI module mod.Not sure what to expect with a 280Z running aZX dizzy??? Chas

Steve, I wasn't assuming. Mine was wrong that simple. It was the two flasher cans with bullet terminals. They should be 90° corner twin spade terminal, if that description makes any sence. I have found some differences between yours mine and some original datsun wiring diagrams around the hazard (four way) flasher can. See jpeg. You are using a (LY) Blue/Yellow wire, but the wiring diagram states (LW) Blue/White I ended up just following the diagram in the 71 supplement. Maybe that is not the best route, but the more I looked the more variation I found. So Im now just using the that wiring diagram and the dash layouts in that same supplement. Maybe we can help each other, but I suspect your will be doing more of the helping Chas

Thanks Steve, Great info. Your circuit diagram reveals some mistakes I made in the terminal blocks. Chas

Hi Tamo, I see another small fault in the 77 wiring. The first red fusable link (counting down from top of diagram) is spliced into the main link (black fusablelink) wiring. It should go to the combination switch, terminal nr 6 High beam circuit. Its an independant circuit for safety reasons I think. It would be one of the last two links if you wanted to get the physical relation in the diagram. Its in the second block with the two red links. Looks good so far and it looks like you are enjoying it as you go. This mod seems simple to do, but in reality you need to consider a lot more than just changing a gauge. What you are doing looks well thought out. Chas

Can't se much on the photo. You need to clean it as best as possible, take it for a run, get it nice and warm and check it again. My drain plug was leaking until I used sealant on the threads. It was probably leaking because I didn't want to over tighten it. They can be a pita to get back out. Chas

Guys. I need some help here. Finding problems with information in the manual, but it might just be me looking at it wrong. Differences in the dash layout drawing and the wiring diagram in the 240Z supplement on the XenonS30 website. Some examples: Fuel gauge, Ammeter have four wires: plug in dash layout has 3. Tacho colours don't match. The blower wiring loom???? Any info please Also: If you can check the Wiper motor, Ignition switch, Acc relay terminal blocks for faults would be great. Are all the bullets for the reverse sw, flashers and stop sw. in the right direction? And a update of the diagram for checks. Chas ColorWiring240Z1971Early_TerminalBlockExample06-mar-2015.pdf

Terminus II

I played around with some terminal blocks. The drawing will be longer. Its the only way to get it in and not clutter it up too much. The terminal blocks can be numbered for reference in block tables with wire colour and size. The block table would refer to the terminal block and a grid reference to locate the area on the wiring diagram. Here are some examples. ColorWiring240Z1971Early_TerminalBlockExample06-mar-2015-1.pdf

A quick update and status report. The HEI module is still working fine, although it has not been driven over the winter months. I put the battery back in and started it last weekend with not problems. In my last post I showed a plated mounted on the resistor. That was done as a temporary measure until I ordered a new 6 volt coil. The coil I was using in the testing required 12volts. The system is now fitted with a Pertronix Flame Thrower II HEI Module D2000 in the TIU and a Flame Thrower 45000 volt 0.6 ohm coil P/N: 45011. I made a simple instruction document for anyone interested in doing this swap. Chas Instruction - Fitting a 4-pin HEI module to 280Z 1977.pdf

Thats uncanny. Im now watching the last one where they are now in the town with the two homo guys. I think we are a week behind the states.

I missed that. Blue is right, that is a dead give away the TIU is stuffed.chas

If you want to bypass the TIU you can. Just buy a cheap GM HEI module and mount it on a aluminium plate next to the coil. Disconect the harness to the tiu so it won't interact with the gm module. I would be more inclined to test the fuel system before doing this. A gauge between the filter and the fuel rail. If possible run the gauge out to somewhere you can see while driving. It could be starving of fuel. Chas

I went over to PU bushes and I have had rattles and sqeaks ever since. Im slowly finding and eliminating them. Thinking about it, I think I transfered the flex it the bushes to the frame making it flex more. All this talk about bracing is starting to rub off on me. It might help reduce the rattles in mine and I like Carl's idea for a fire extinguisher. Mine is now where the tyre inflater should be which isn't very accessable. Chas

Bob, Im using the original dizzy. It was working ok, but my TIU wasn't. The TIU now has a GM HEI module in it.

My TIU went bad last year. I had similar issue that you described. Drive 15 - 20 minutes and it would start running rough and stop. After 10 minutes it would come back to life and I could just get it back home. I changed it for a GM HEI module and have not had any problems with it since. Did you check for spark when it started playing up? If you take a spare spark plug witb you the you can hse it on the coil lead to see if its still working. Get someone crank the engine while you test it. Also dothis test before it starts misbehaving. That way you will know what the spark will look like when its working properly. Chas Edit: added link to my Hei module thread. Note I bridged over my resistor because I was using a 12 volt coil. If you use a 6 volt coil then you don't need to do that. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49588-fitting-a-hei-module-in-transistor-ignition-unit-1977-280z/

I used wide masking tape over the cups, trimed it off and folded it over the sides of the cup. Then punched a hole in it with a bic pen.I usd stripe of the same masking tape to hold the cups in place. Thats way the tape sripes look ragged. Crude but it worked. Oh btw Cliff that was fuel I was testing😂

Thats worrying that it doesn't surprise you. Sounds like you are loosing confidence is rebello's build. Seems to me he just has priority management issues which translates to dissatisfied customers, but the quality of his engines are still good. In reality it doesn't matter where number one starts. We are all use to it starting at a certain point. Zed head's point about plug leads being a bit short could be a problem. You can always flip it 180 degrees later. Chas

I used a spark plug, but any grounded 6mm bolt or steel rod would do. My TIU died two years later anyway. Those things are getting pretty old.Chas