EuroDat

Chris. You're a master zed restorer

The bumpers are very different . The early pre august version does not compress as much as the later version. Thatis way the shockslook a lot shorter in carpartsmanual, the bumper does not push in as far. That being said, you can change a later model 280Z back to the early version if you have all the parts. The bolt pattern for mounting the shocks are the same on bothversions. So if you have all the components from a early model it would work. The bumper components are not interchangable. The shocks, chrome section and rubber ends are all different.

Found some photos I made for someone wanting photos of the horn mounting position.

IMark, If you need photos of the 77 bumper shacks, I can take as many as you need. I still have the old bumper and shocks, but no ends. Gave them to the Captain. Jai could have it all for free, but shipping would be out of this world.

Here are some diagrams and photos of different attempts to lighten a flywheel.

In regards to your clutch and flywheel setup. The fidanza and 240mm clutch is a good setup. The 240mm pressure plate is a little heavier than the standard 225mm and the extra lightness of the fidanza compensate nicely. I'm using a lightened flywheel out of a 280ZX 2+2 with an oem style 240mm clutch. A F5W71B close ratio and a 3.7:1 diff. I like the combination. I don't know what had the biggest driving effect, the diff or the flywheel because they went in the same time. Lightening a flywheel is not as easy as one would think. You can take a flywheel down to 11ibs and it will repond less than one taken down to 16lbs. Its where you remove the metal that makes all the difference. To get the best effects you will need to mill the outer sections and that costs a lot to a point where you would probably be better of with the fidanza.

I this photo you are looking at the piston. Going by your remarks it looks like you have not removed the piston to check if everything is clean inside and free of any machine filings. I would do that before going any further. You can push it out buy removing the two mounting bolts and pumping the clutch pedal slowly to push it out. When the piston comes out, disconnect the hose and clean the slave cylinder. Don't re-use the fluid that comes out as it could contain contaminants. A lot going on in this thread. Also refering to Zed Heads comments: This thread started with a new leaking slave cylinder. That is the first issue that should be addressed.

His last photos are of the early (pre 73) type slave cylinder. You can see the tab next to the hose used as an anchor point for the spring. That early type slave cylinder does not have an internal spring. The rod should fit with the lock nut and dome nut on the slave cylinder side of the clutch fork. If that is not the case then there is an issue with the geometry. The first thing that comes to mind is a mis matched throw out bearing collar and pressure plate. These days it is a common probleem. Or the clutch fork has popped out of the spring clip and now not seated properly in the pivit ball in the bell housing. @Wally You now have the correct slave cylinder for your clutch fork. I would remove the slave cylinder and check the clutch fork is working correctly before going any further. Remove the rubber dust boot and check the pivot. If that is ok I would think about correctly the position of the nuts. Maybe cut more thread on the rod? To adjust the push rod: Adjust the nut until no free play. Push the clutch peadal in two to three times to settle everything. Adjust nut to remove any free play. Then back the nut off 2 full turns. Lock the nut using the thin lock nut. That will give you about 2.5 to 3mm play at the clutch fork - push rod. The bearing - pressure plate will then have about 2mm free play.

Can you post some photos of the new slave cylinder. I'm not sure I understand what happened: "It felt like the rod broke through that inset, round black cup a little" Maybe the piston seal was damaged when the piston was fitted into the cylinder bore.

HI Jeff, The size is not any standard O-ring size which makes it hard to find a supplier. You could try an AS standard o-ring. The AS568 standard is very common in the USA. Ask for a AS568-119 (23.47x2.62mm). The cross section is a little bigger, but the o-ring also has a slightly smaller ID which will compensate. If the cross section is too thick and you can't fit the adapter without damaging the o-ring an alternative would be one size smaller AS568-118 (21.89x2.62mm). When you stretch the o-ring out to ID 24 it will reduce the cross section size enough to fit. O-ring Standards Overzicht.pdf O-ring sizes.pdf

It should be 24mm ID. O-ring are measurdd by inside diameter on a general rules. I have an international o-ring list. It might help with finding onethat comes close. Like @siteunseen said close is good enough as long as is is not too small.

Your setup is now a little different from the original setup. You have a 71 clutch fork with the later version slave cylinder. I would remove the external spring and adjust it like I described above.

You shouldn't be using the external spring with that slave cylinder. They changed the slave cylinder design in the 73 model 240Z. Up to 73 they used a external return spring. In 73 they went to a internal spring (in the slave cylinder) and it didn't require any adjustment during the life of the clutch disc. How to adjust it? Adjust the push rod until all free play is gone. Then screw the ball headed nut another two turns. Lock it with the lock nut. Check it by pushing the clutch fork into the slave cylinder. It should push about 10 to 12mm. When you let it go it should return and have no free play. Another thing. You will most probably have to shorten the push rod or cut more thread to get to a range suitable for the slave cylinder. If you want to keep the external spring do this. Make a plate out of 2mm steel to fit behind the slave cylinder mounting bolts. Bend it at 90 degrees directly behind the slave cylinder. The spring can connect to this bracket. I have a drawing if you want to do this. Once you have done that dismantle the slave cylinder and remove the internal spring. It will now work like the early version.

O-ring size is 24x2.5mm (ID x Cross section). NBR or Viton material. O-

Yes, totally agree with @Zed Head The quality of these after market parts is low, as is the assembly of said parts. It sounds like they damaged the piston cup seal during assembly. Whether the cup seal lip caught on the side during assembly or machine sworth damaged it you will only know by dismantling it. If you take it back for another, make sure you dismantle the new one and clean it properly before use. Ask them for some grease suitable for EPDM rubber, it is usually red in color, to lubricate the seal when assembling. You are using a spring on the fork. Is the slave cilinder for the 240Z or the later 280Z version. You can't use a spring on the later 280Z versions because they have and internal spring and the two springs work against each other. You can use the adjustable fork with the later 280Z version, just needs a little attention on how to adjust it properly.

Looks very nice indeed.

I think you mean 5th to Reverse. The reverse lockout was developed to stop people hitting reverse when coming back from 5th to 4th gear. That is one of the reasons reverse gears are zo badly chipped in the ealy model 5 speed.

I'm no expert at rust repairs, but the floor does have a degree of structual rigidity and riviting the patches may compromise that. @grannyknot has done a couple of S30 restorations and knows more about this than I ever would. Maybe he can enlighten me at least.

My wife took my 280Z for a test drive once and I doubt she will ever do that again. We almost missed the driveway. When she finally parked is and rattled of your top ten plus "stupid car has no power steering". Her last remark was; I can't beleive you wasted all your time on that...

Does it make any other noises. It still could be a broken transmission mount or front engine mount. The knocking you are hearing could be exhaust pipe banging against transmission cross member.

A couple of photos. One of the old brewing house (no longer in use) and a filler carousel getting a new main center bearing

That is a nice system you have John. I don't think there is any true bolt in system. They all need tweeking somewhere. I have an abart system and it will need some mods to connect to the down pipe.

This is a photo of my original mustache bar washers.

Indeed, could be a mix up with the mustache bar. According to the parts manual they changed in 73, but after that they should be the same as the ones in my photo. I also have a 1977 280Z, but can't garantee originality. You can search for parts on this site. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-suspension/21

Hi @280zxSpectrum Don't be too offended by the comments on this forum. It's just some members having a little fun. It's known as "posting to a zoombie thread". I made the same misstake on another forum and the admin, name starting wit T and ending with D gave me a trashing. Anyway, welcome to the club. Once you get use to us, some of us can be a little like the two old guys in the muppets, you will be fine. I see on your profile you are a brewer. Hobby, boutique of commercial brewer? Just being curious, I work for, dare I say, Heineken.