EuroDat

You wont be able to calculate the engine number using the data from other cars built around 9/70. The problem is datsun used these L24 blocks in other models at the same time. There will be massive gaps it the number because batchs went to different assembly lines. The link siteunseen posted is a good place to start looking. It will give and idea where your engine fits in the timeline. At best you can varify it possably came out of that car OR a vehicle using the L24 built in the same general months as the zeds on the zhome site. If you study the list a little you can assume they picked engines at random from the stock pile. The numbers don't always increase with the VIN which makes it impossable to say your engine should be between two known VIN/engine serial nr combinations Can the PO give any info on the subject? Why was the plate remove (Most likely because he changed the engine) and if the engine was removed where is it? Maybe original receipts or documents showing the engine number. It would be worth some effort to try and track the original block down. Your car is not technically a low numbers car, but it is what is commonally known as a series 1 and with matching numbers it will increase value. If that is not important to you, but you want to replace the plate anyway, Banzai make them. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php Btw what is the engine number? Welcome to the club Chas

Mine is stock except for the GM Hei module and the temp sensor tweak. I have had it on a dino 2 years back at a local shop that builds rally subarus. I have spent the last two years trying to get it back to factory specs. Crazy thing is, it felt great before the dino run. Since the dino run I have done the injectors, all the injector conectors, fuel pump seals, petronics flame thrower ignition module, petronics coil, checked and calibrated afm, temp sensor tweak and clean all the ecu harness terminals. With the lightened flywheel, close ratio 5 speed and the 3.7 diff it is so muchmore enjoyable to drive. Im happy with the "stock" setup and like Zed head rarely go above 5,500rpm. A lot of people think there engine is producing what it should according to specs, but mostly over the years wear, ecu drift, poor adjustments and simply old aged parts slowly reduce the power that you don't notice it or you bought the car already like it. In the end you have to decide what you want to do with the car. Read a much as you can without getting lost in the jungle, so to speak. Thats the problem I find with the internet, you read so much that you get confused or read so much contradicting information that you can make your mind up. Chas

If you want to read up on the stock EFI system. There is a guy Paul goes by the name Braap on hybridz did a great write up on it. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/?hl=braap Enjoy. I did. Chas

Yes the P90 has better quench and the runner design was improved over the N42. Does it make it worth all the extra work to use it on a street driven car? I would think only if the N42 is in worse shape than the P90. Changing to a P90 head because it breaths better and keeping the stock EFI is not going to give you any real noticable hp gain. You still have the intake, throttle body and AFM restricting everything. The Turbo intake, the P82 will flow a little better than the N/A intake, but you still have the stock ECU holding you back. If you change the EFI for carbs. A four barrel won't be all that much of an improvement. The L6 runs lean on cylinders 1 and 6 and rich on 3 and 4. The old SU's or tripples would be a better alternative. That would give you the freedom to modify the engine a lot more. To add to your reseach above. The 280ZX came with the N47 in the early days up to about mid 1980. Cheers Chas

Yer, The BCDD should reduce the high vacuum in the high rev range during decel when working properly. The high vacuum will suck oil past the valve guides and rings. If you give it full throttle after that you will probably see a puff of blue smoke out the back. Goodluck hunting down your problem. Chas

Like Steve and Zed Head already mentioned. Reasonable HP gains and standard old basic ECU don't mix. The ECU doesn't compensate much and basically the only tweek you can do is the temperature sensor. You will spend a lot of money and get very little results. It could turn out to be such a dog to drive that the wife refuses to drive it. The standard N42 (Fed) or N43 (Cal) exhaust manifold performs goed on a stock system and a header will not add much more to it. I would probably stick with the N42 head and exhaust manifold. Have it rebuilt with new steel seats and get the ports matched to the manifolds. If the heads is untouched it will have silicon/bronze seats. I think the biggest improvement you can make on the standard setup is a lightened flywheel. You can get the original lightened or go the safer route and buy a fidanza 143281. They cost around $300 if you look hard. Replacing the fan with an electric unit will also help a little and reduce the fan noise. Thinking further: Depending on what top speed you want. A late model 280Zx 5 speed close ratio and a 3.7 or 3.9 diff out of a Z31 300ZX will improve driver enjoyment. The lightened flywheel, 280ZX tranny en 3.7 diff certainly improved my 280z. Chas

Tomo, Maybe this one is oke And cheap? http://www.koraps.com/shop/item.php?it_id=1389163 Chas

It should work. Only problem I can imagine is a shortage of vacuum if you play with the AC controls too much. You could check the size of the vacuum servos on the 280ZX and compare them with the ones in the 280Z. They might be smaller and therefore requiring a smaller vacuum tank. If the vacuum does run low it can effect your fast idle and the engine speed will drop and could even stall. Certainly clean up that side of the engine bay. Its small enough to mount between the dryer and the carbon canister. Chas

Hi Bob, Common mod to get the CR up on the P90 in a N/A engine is to shave the head 2mm, shim the cam towers 2mm and use the valves out of the N47 head. You could do this to your P79 head if the bottom end is in good shape, this could be an alternative with the P79 head. Its not a perfect design with dished pistons, but the P79 is considered the better of the two heads. Chas PS: Might want to start a new thread if you are considering changing heads. It would be an interesting discussion.

He says it would be tax deductable because it will be sold through the school. Was it a school tech project?

Guy,Its probably not the right thread to mention this, but here goes anyway. I was having trouble finding my old threads too. Found them, but its not all that logical, for me anyway. Click on your name under the Classic Z car logo, then "my content" in the drop down menu. Then go to "See the members" and select "Only topics". I found mine that way. Chas

Can't find my photos, but there is a guy here trying to sell one for months, no takers. I didn't think the holley would fit under the bonnet of a Zed. This one is of a patrol L24

If you doubt the ignition box, you could try a GM HEI-Module. Its easy to install as a test unit, just four wires and its up and running. Doesn't need the resistor block. Here is a photo of mine when I was testing the HEI module. The unit was a cheap china made unit (sorry Blue) for $10.00. After it all worked I changed to a Petronics module. Here is the thread on my HEI mod. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49588-fitting-a-hei-module-in-transistor-ignition-unit-1977-280z/ If you follow the wiring diagram in post#2 it would be simple to sutup the module next to the coil on a piece of aluminium plate. Then you can piggyback of the coil positive to the module B terminal and the C terminal to the coil negative. The W and G terminals go to the distributor pickup. You don't need the resistor if you are using a 12V coil. Chas

The holley 4bbl manifold was a common swap on the old Nissan patrols to replace the old single downdraght carb. I have a couple photos of one on a patrol somewhere. Its considered as a replacement and not a performence add on. IMO SU's will work much better. The holley tends to be rich in cylinders 3 and 4 and leans out in 1 and 6. Chas

If its the bearing between the input and the main shaft, just replacing the bearing will only help for a while. There are two surfaces on the shafts that wear too all be it at a slower rate than the neddle rollers. This is what disapoints so many people when they replace the bearings and the transmission doesn't quite sound like new. Often still having mild whining noise. Me included. I fixed my noise by using 13mm thick Armaflex insulation http://novaplus.nl/TI/index.php?item=armaflex-ace-13-99_e--1-rol&action=article&group_id=9&aid=162&lang=NL on the floor and tunnel. Great sound proofing stuff. Chas

Your description is right. Clutch engaged is when the peddle is not being pressed to the floor. If the throwout bearing is seizing (hard to turn) it could be slipping on the pressureplate fingers when the peddle is not being pressed. I would expect it to be making noise all the time though and when you depress the clutch it should protest even more under load. Not being able to hear the noise myself Im leaning towards internal noise in the transmission. It could be bearing wear and that could be causing your selector to vibrate as well. You could change the check ball springs in the selectors to reduce the effects and cure the rattle, but if the bearings are causing it, they will only get worse and you will eventually need to do some sort of revision or transmission replacement. Chas

I forgot about the sunroof. Thats a definate improvement. The Mach 1 looks like it will keep you occupied for a while. Did it come with the missing parts (front bumper, taillights) in the car? Goodluck with it. Chas

Hi Jan, Is the notacable noise in neutral with the clutch engaged or disengaged? The throwout bearing should not be noisy when disengaged. The bearing is then unloaded and bearly touching the pressureplate fingers. It would be more likely something like the center needle bearing (in red circle) between the input shaft and main shaft. You could remove the dust cover around the clutch fork so you can hear it better. It may help localize the noise. A possible oil leak source is the locker pin (see red outline in cross section) for the selector rod. Its between the breather section and the o-ring seal on the selector rod. I used silicone sealant around the housing and over the ends of the pin to cure my small leak there. One other thing you could try to help fix your rattle is the check ball springs on the selector rods. They could be worn and weak allowing the selector rod to jiggle and vibrate. The two side checks (3rd,4th) (rev,5th) are easy to remove, but the one up top is harder to get to and get out. You could try a set of new springs or shorten the exiting springs and add washers to equivalent to the amount removed. Shortening the spring makes it firmer. It would be easier to buy a new set of springs. I replaced them P/N:32830-20100 in my transmission and they only cost €1.00 ea. The new ones were a couple millimetres longer indicating that my old ones had saged a little. Maybe something there will help Goodluck Chas

Jan A couple of other things you can check are: The bolts in the rear transmission mount are not too long. If the mount starts to sag and the bolts are long, they could tap the top section and cause the noise during certain frequencies. Do the brass bushes have any excessive play on the internal diameters. I know of one guy having this problem with new brass bushes and changed back to plastic and the noise went. Sounds like its getting better. Just in 1st and 3rd sounds bearing related and maybe a little mis alignment of the gears. Chas PS: The guy on hybridz had an oil leak and found the excessive play in the yoke. It wasn't causing him vibrations, not even sure it was causing the leak, but it could vibrate if it started clicking up and down on the shaft splines. Some oil leaks come from the pin above the selsctor rod. Its not sealed which was probably a source for his leak.

Awesome work Haz. That chrome trim turned out really neat. This thing will too good to drive when you are finished😁 Chas

Hi Bart, The car looks great " bling bling" Thats back luck on the bumpers. Hope they get it right next time around. Sounds like poor preperation. I had something similar happen to me on my old fiat 127. They were "new" aftermarket bumpers and looked great, but started rusting through the chrome after about 18 months. Since then Im suspisious about cheap chrome and considering the harrington stainless steal bumpers for the Zed. Ill have to come see the Mustang when it touches down. Googluck Chas

Weak flow to the rear wheel cylinders sounds like rust and slim buildup in your system is the likely cause. The brake system has various small diameter holes that can get partially blocked specially after sitting for so long. I agree with Pop's Z. The brakes are too important to take any short cuts. I would clean it out and replace anything and everything in doubt. Chas

Sounds very much like a worn extension house bushing. There is a guy on hybridz that had a similar problem. It was leaking oil all the time. He had a worn bush in the extension. He was also having trouble with after market stuff being out of spec in new condition. Something to be aware of if you are buying parts to fix the problem. Can't find the thread right now. I think you are refering to the backlash in the diff when you rotate it in neatral. You are turning the driveshaft to the diff right? Slight rotation is normal and shoundn't be causing this problem. Chas

I think he means "drag it home behind your car" It probably was made by scrabb, who ever that is ::Its amazing that some people think; If I buy this and leave it in the paddock unprotected for ten years, it will improve with age. Might have been a good project when he parked it. Shame.

Sounds like your muffler had some coolant in it and took some time to boil out. Hope thats all it is. Good to hear its running again. Ready and Looking forward to the summer Chas