EuroDat

Sorry to hear your trip ended with no car as a result. I don't think I would have been so polite. I spent 2 1/2 years casually looking as far as Germany and one in the north of France. Captains post sounds very firmiliar. Goodluck searching and try to be patiant;) Chas

What is the difference between the pre Sep 1971 and later Tokico version other than the bleeders on the other side? I changed mine about two years back because the bore was pitted and a kit wouldn't fix it. BECK/ARNLEY 0722694 from rock auto. I changed the tanks to keep the original look. A piece of advice: I dismantled mine before installing it. It still had some machining filings from fabrication which would have reduced its life span considerably. Its worked perfectly since, no leaks

Sarah, I have a crack in the paint that looks similar, but not as big. The car has been resprayed (thick coat) over the original paint. I left a screwdriver on the frame in front or the AFM and closed the bonnet:( It could be caused by something like that from inside. Sure doesnt look nice. Looks like some sort of repair work underneath. Sucess searching this weekend. Chas

That transmission never came out in the US or Canada. You could try a PM to Alan T. He might have one in a PDF version. You are probably goinv to run into trouble getting parts for the synchros. The C transmissions had the porche type steel servo. The W type was with the bronze alloy warner type. Japan would be the best bet for parts otherthan bearings and seals which you can source locally. I think they started using the B (two piece housing) version from 1972 onwards until they changed to the W type. The A type was the 3 piece housing. Chas

He claims 500hp and that is going through a 71b transmission out of a 280ZX. If it does hit 500hp, that tranny is not going to like it at all. Nissan chose the T5 for the 280ZX turbo for good reason. He probably put a lot of time and thought into his project, but its not my taste. Best of luck selling it. chas

Have you given a single post hoist any thought? It would give you better acess under the car and they can be ordered in a semi mobile unit. http://www.aaq.net.au/shop/detail/autolift-167251-single-post-lift/ Chas

Looks like you, kurby and orrangatang are all having issues with delivery. Seems like the engines are worth the effort, just frustrating that the service isn't up to scratch. Good luck with it, hope it comes soon. Great build btw. Chas

What ever the reason for the difference in rocker arms, Datsun factory or dpllc, the wear patterns are just damn scary way out on the side like that. Lucky you caught it before it done too much damage. Disappointing that this happened to start with. Goodluck getting it back together. Chas

Hi Leon. You might want to pm olzed. He is a kiwi, but I havn't seen hem posting for a couple of weeks. He probably hasn't seen your post. Enjoy your trip. Chas

Like nix240z said, just resolder it. Don't use any soldering iron that uses an open flame. I've done it before not on a Zed, but it was similar. I washed out the tank first , as a precaution, and cleaned the area with a wire wheel and I used a mates plumbers soldering iron to solder the joint. I had that car for eight years after that and it never caused any problems. Chas

Here are some photo's of my egr and the plug and plate fitted to the manifolds. I didn't need it here to pass emmisions regulations so it was easier for me to delete it. Chas.

Yep. Its the EGR pipe. Mine broke in exactly the same place, just before I decided to delete it. I have some before and after photos of the fix. Ill post them tonight. Chas

I take it you are "fair dinkum" asking these questions. The dial you are talking about is probably the "Shut/Open" vent under the steering column to direct air to the drivers leg area. It should be connected to a flexible tube about 1-1/2" in diameter, but that may have been removed by a previous owner to gain access to behind the dash. It might be a bit more social to explain who you are and what model S30 you have. Oh btw welcome to the club. Chas

Hi Tamo, I like you circuit diagram. Clear and easy to follow. There is omly one thing I would add to it. More for safety than anything else. Please don't take it as knocking what you have done. I like it a lot and may just follow your steps. I see you are using one 30A fuse to power the high and low beam circuits. I would prefer to use two seperate fuses. Just don't like the thought of cruising down the road doing 140kmh and all of a sudden have to "feel" my way in the dark. Looking forward to seeing photos of the finished work. Chas

I use the OEM stuff, mostly because it doen't cost mush more than the others and I know the quality is ok. Engine gasket kits might be a different story and the performance aftermarket kits may be better. Don't have much experience onthe PU bushing kits. I bought minefrom energy suspension and a TC rod kit from MSA. BTW I didn't use all the kit. I left the transmission mount bracket bushes as is and some people recommend leaving the mustache bar alone if the car is a daily driver or just street use. Changing these tend to make the ride harsh. Chas

Site, you should have a read of what Guy did with his engine build. Good reading fodder.http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39741-new-engine/?hl=diseazd#entry357477 cheers chas

Nice engine. The F54 with the webbed cylinders is a strong block. Did the N42 head in aus come with the steel valve seat? Just wondering. Thats the last in the us with soft seat before lead free fuel and the N47 head. Love the coupe. Chas

Anyone interested in a set of sil plates for a S30 2+2? I think they are from a 260 2+2 or an early 280Z 2+2. I got these by mistake, the advertiser thought they where for a S30 coupe. They will only get damaged lying around in the garage. I will post more photos with dimensions. Chas

Hi Tamo, Do you have any photo's of the pulley? Nice photo's on removing the old one. Just wondering how the 280Z pulley fits or do you use another pulley all together. Great photo's. Makes the modification clear and easy to follow. It will be intersting to see how this unit performs. Chas

I didn't realise you had calipaers on the back. Reading the first post "have willwoods front" threw me off a bit. That is a typical problem with modified brakes. Getting the caliper in a position so the bleeder is at the top is not always practical. This means bleeding the brakes will be a problem with the calipers installed. Most people bleed the system with the caliper removed and positioned so the bleeder is at the top. Even a pressure bleed can't get all the air out when the bleeder is not on the highest point. Probably why you notice an improvement compared to the system before. I would expect them to remove the caliper like you did and do the pressure bleed. Good to see its all sorted out. Cheers Chas

2% off. I think thats better the factory. Tyre side is also a factor to consider when choosing speedo pinions. A couple of centimeters in tyre heigh can make all the difference. The advice from MSA doesn't sound all that good to me. "Snugs up against the gear". If the pinion is riding hard on the wheel it can do two things: 1- Cause a lot of adapter wear due to the pinion shaft pushing hard to one side. 2- Break the plastic pinion when everthing warms up and the gear gets overstressed. Sounds like your locking tab is a little short and allowing the adapter to rotate too much. Im not sure if that small amount of rotation will cause that much lateral movement. You can correct it easy enough by removing the locking tab and gently pulling (Don't pull on the cable) the adapter back and re-install it in the correct position. Chas

Hi rossiz, I restart my old thread on it tonight. Im planning on fitting the turn signal in the next weeks. To keep it short, hope HaZmatt doesn't mind, I tried the valence from a 240Z. Thought I could modify it, but the frame is just too low. My solution is to use the Xeon Air-dam from MSA and the turn signals from the 240Z. The air-dam replaces the 240Z valence and it is just low enough to cover the frame and it reduces the gap between it and the bumper. Chas

A failing TIU can often be temperature related. Mine would work great when cold and started failing after driving for a while. It did start doing it once in the garage before I wanted to leave. That was in the middle of summer. I made a tester by using a hose clamp to fix a spark plug to a bracket and bolted it to the strut tower. That way I could use a hi tension lead to the spark plug and crank the engine from the drivers seat while checking for spark with out anyone helping. Yer it always seemed to play up when I was alone. You just need to be creative. If you do make something like that, test it while its working fine. Thaf way yoh will know what it should look like. Chas

How old is the master cylinder. The reason Im asking is old master cylinders don't like being pushed (pedal) to the floor. Over time the section of the cylinder that doesn't get wiped clean by the plunjers gets pitted and corroded. This can damaged the rubber plunjer cups and seize the plunjer at the bottom of its travel. The front section could have this problem. This could be your problem or making it a lot worse. You can tap it with the handle end of a screwdriver and see if you hear it click when it jumps back. Chas

Something freaky about the forum. Double post and can't edit the second one