EuroDat

The high revving doesn't scare me that much. It sounds like an air leak or sticky throttle linkage. Both problems can be fixed with basic tools and a little coaching. Overheating is something that can be a little or very big problem. If I was in your situation, I would start with simple things like the rubber hose with the dodgy tape repair. Remove the hose carefully and clean it and let it dry. Check all the cracks and seal then up with silicone sealant. Let it dry and put it back in. It will do for testing until you get a new one or one in better condition. Thats your next sucess /potential air leak solved. Next the heating problem. Remove the radiator cap and get the engine hot again. Check for bubbles escaping from the radiator. It a sign that the head gasket is leaking or cracks in the head. Its not 100% but its a good indication. If thats ok then it could be a faulty thermostat. You can remove it easily and test it in a pot of water. Warm it up and see when it opens. You will need a new thermostat housing gasket to re-install the thermostat. Try to keep things simple and move step for step forward. Good luck. Chas

Zed head has covered a lot of ground. Trying to follow this thread and one thing stands out. TOO MANY problems at once. Try to concentrate on one problem at a time. You mention that you are not up to speed on the technics of your car. Calm down a bit. Even the best of us don't try to tackle all the problems in one weekend. Better to solve one, celibrate and move on to the next. It won't be long and you will have a reliable DD. Look at it this way Problem no. 1: Fan belt keeps falling of. New fan belt, Now you have solved dat problem. Problem no. 2: Pick one and work it through. Relax, Sounds like you have a lot of energy and the will to do the job, try not to freak out and give up on it. Good luck Chas

I have had a similar problem with another car, but could just as easy happen to a Zed. The master cylinder builds up crud inthe cylinder bore over time. If you rebuild the brakes without doing the MC you can have problems withthe master cylinder. The piston get stuck when they got all the way to the bottom of travel and stay there. You don't notice because you are pumping brakes with a vacuum less booster. It just feels harder and different than normal. This could be your problem. Its also not a good idea to run it with a "dirty" mc. It will probably fail soon after bleeding because the rubber cups are now most likely damaged by the pitting and grime in the bore section that was normally not wiped clean by the rubber cups. Good luck Chas

Yeeeer, You said it Zed:D:D:D Chas

Another point about the clamps. The original Nissan clamps are stainless steel and excellent quality. If you replace them I would try to get original nissan clamps? The ones from MSA and alike are also good and will do the job fine. See the first link in my post #2. Just my 2 cents

The purpose of a drain hole would be to allow the water that found its way in escape. Not saying its the best solution, best would be to prevent it getting in in the first place. You mentioned that you jacked the rear of the car up and water came out the front of the rail. That means its been trapped in there for some time and could take months to evaporate. Its a bit like the floor pans. Once water gets in there and can't get out its going to make the situation a lot worse. Draining it won't stop the rust, but when the weather clears it will dry quicker and slow the rust progress down a little. The undercoating in your photo looks like its starting to crack and lifting in places. Thats when the rust proofing turn into a rust enhancer. When it starts to lift away it can leave bare metal exposed to the elements. The cracks allow water in and hold it there causing rust. Eastwood sell kits (rattle can with a small hose) to spray chassis and frame internals, but this will only work on a new or repaired rail with no rust. Once rust takes hold its very hard to stop. Thats my experience with Fiats 127, 128 and pre 70's Holdens. If you think Zeds are bad for rust, Fiats are up there with them in the top 10 list. Chas

Welcome to the club. Just reading through your intro and you are saying a lot, but not much at the same time. Please don't take that the wrong way. You mention that your father had a 79 ZX, but you have a Z. 280Z maybe? That makes a big difference when it comes to details. Its a good idea to mention your car model, year and maybe build date in your singniture. The revving and high idle your experiencing sounds like an air leak after the throttle body. The torn rubber connection you described is not uncommon. You can temporarily tape it until you get another. I would sugest downloading the FSM and getting firmiliar with the EFI system in your car. XenonS30 XenonS130 - S130 Reference Don't forget to download the Fuel Injection Supplement (aka Bible) As for the alternator belt jumping off. Check the alignment of all the pulleys and check for free play in the alternator bracket (with the belt off). A new belt tensioned correctly will probably help a lot. Don't know how old this one is?? Word of advice: The tone in you thread sounds like you are frustrated with your purchase. Its an old car and will always need more care than a modern day car. Even new that required more attention than todays low maintenance vehicles. They can be very reliable, but just require more attention. Second: It its frustrating you. Stop and do something else for a while and I dont mean search the internet for clues. Something entirely non related. When you come back with a clear head, things general make more sense. Works for me. Goodluck Chas

If you're changing the injectors, I would also replace the o-rings. They don't cost much and fresh rubber can prevent a vacuum leak. Its also a good time to replace any worn out hose clamps. Motorsport! Fuel Injector Hardware - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Motorsport! Fuel Injector O-Ring, Large, 75-83 280Z-280ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Motorsport! Fuel Injector O-Ring, Small, 75-83 280Z-280ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

I have been driving for a couple of days now and its still running much better. I must admit I was not to eager to drive it after all the problems, but now its brillant. My faith has returned. The engine revs hard to 6000rpm and sounds better than before. Not sure if thats due to the new coil or HEI module since I had to changed them at the same time. I think most of my problem was in the TIU. Once everything has proven itself, I will make a tech article maybe after I upgrade to the flame thrower. If anyone is interested in a base plate I made a simple drawing. Its on scale 1:1, but all the measurements are there so if the scale gets messed up it wont matter. Chas BasePlate001.pdf

I think the waves I posted came from Bubba's Hot Rod shop, but I cant find the thread anymore. http://www.lindertech.com/bhrs/chev_..._elec_conv.htm I think it was in a mopar forum somewhere. He was one of the threw that made sense in that thread. Interesting that the Z reluctor looks similar to the original GM units.

Her is an ebay seller with some photos that might help Datsun 240Z 1972 73 Choke Cable Lever Mounting Bracket | eBay

Welcome to the club. Reading your description of the problem Im wondering if your master cylinder is assembled correctly. I have read threads on this forum and other forums where people have found the internals fitted backwards or in the wrong order. Nothing missing, just a question of poor quality control at the factory. An example could be the primary cup on the front piston is fitted backwards. I take it you rebuilt the calipers per FSM instructions, but the MC was new and you probably fitted it without dismantling it. You mention that you bled the brakes. How did you do that? Im wondering how it bled seeing it doesn't build up any pressure when you pump the brakes. Maybe a vacuum bleeder? Did you check the adjustment on the rod from the booster? It could be pushing to far out and not allowing the pistons to return and open the resivoir holes. Vacuum bleeding can still bleed it like this, but not completly. There will be air trapped in the mc. Another probable cause is a huge amount of air in the front system, but then you wouldn't get any peddle hight. This can be caused by fitting the calipers to the wrong side. Check the bleeder is at the top of the caliper. Its an easy mistake to make because it all bolts up perfectly. Goodluck Chas

This is work related and a bit off topic, but I still think its worth mentioning. We had Electomotors with grease nipples to gease the bearings in our water treatment plant. The technicians greased them in there rounds with 3 grams of grease as per manufacurers instructions. These motors where installed in 1998 and were all replaced by 2002 mostly due to bearing failure. I had them replaced with motors that had sealed bearings filled with Hi-temp grease. Nearly all (14 of the 15) are still in use today, but some are starting to develope signs of bearing wear that shows up in the vibration analysis we do every six months. These motors run all day every day for Purified water, WFI, and Cooling / heating medium systems. My conclusion; A sealed bearing lasts longer because it does not get contaminated by dirty grease or when someone pumps in to much grease and pops the dust seals allowing dirt and other contaminates in. Common causes for bearing failure is contamination or undersized / underrated where the pressures in the bearing increases above the design limit and causes it to overheat at which point the grease fails to lubricate and it fails. I think lubricating them could reduce there life span more than increase it. Like John said in his post, most rear wheel bearings last the life of the car or at least 100,000miles without relubricating. Chas

Holy crape. Thats about the longest first post Ive seen on hereLOL Welcome to the club and forum. Like you already mentioned, there is a lot of info here to get you started, but if you're in doubt, don't hesitate to ask. This forum is friendly than others. You could also try Carl's zhome website the Z Car Home Page Its also a great site to find information. Atlantic Z is another for tech tips and plenty of photo's Tech Tips Cheers Chas

Well the TIU in back in and the engine is running fine again. I had one little glitch. Managed to get the reluctor wires mixed up and the engine would not rev past 2500 rpm. I remember reading about this somewhere and after checking found the green and the red wires on the wrong terminals. One of those Homer Simson "doh" moments:stupid: Next step is a small strip across the resistor so it looks stock, but the resistor then has no function. Ill post some photo's later. Chas

The last I have heard is that the np valve is now nla. I managed to clean mine up and reuse it. The switch just needed a set of o-rings. Its been 1 1/2 years and they are still working fine. Chas

Hi Zed, I was thinking along those lines as well. Cooling should not be a problem in the car. For now Im running the el cheapo and I have a spare. The coil is a 40kv with 0.6ohm. It was the closest I could get without special ordering. Good enough for R&D and normal driving. The link you posted has some good alternatives. I was looking at the Accel 35361 and the Flame thrower. Chas

You must be using a slave cylinder for the Series 1? After June 1972 they changed to a non adjustable version and matching clutch fork. Nothing like a simple fix / big result to make your day:love: Grats Site Chas

I have done a little research on the HEI Modules too. Not to say Im any kind of expert, far from it. More like enough knowledge to be a little dangerousLOL The Mopar guys seem to be very fond of the HEI module and there is plenty of good and bad information on their forums. What I have found on the net and through talking to a Buik guy in the street behind us. The GM HEI is considered one of the better modules, but it is also a lazy module and can run with a higher ohm coil, it just won’t go to current limiting control. To get the best out of a HEI Module you should use a 0.5 or lower ohm coil. That way the module will use its current limiting abilities and produce the best spark. Here is a good example of what a low and high ohm coil will do to the HEI's performance. I think this could be some of the problems people are having with poor performance and not revving past 5000rpm. If my mod goes well I am planning to use the Pertronix Flame thrower HEI and (stock looking canistor) Coil. With a bit of luck Ill have the mod done tonight and test drive tomorrow. Chas

Why are you running two proportioning valves. Is the original still in place and an extra aftermarket in the rear line? Your pedal problem could be the reaction disc in the brake booster fell down inside the booster. Or the rod adjustment to the master cylinder. That can cause your problem. Some aftermarket mc are not put together correctly. Should check that as well.

The only switch you need is the reverse switch which has two green wires going to it. The turbo models had a completly different Borg warner T5 transmission in the manual models. Chas

Yes, I used a white heat tranfer paste we use at work for pt100's in thermowells etc. If you look closly at the photo under the wiring dagram, you can see a white smear after wiping away the excess paste.

I made a simple wiring diagram of the setup Im now building. Its a little different around the resistor. Im using a 12V coil and bypassing the resistor. The wire from the ignition switch is connected, but doesn't have any purpose atm. Thanks to Wayne (wal280Z) for the awsome effort he has done with the color wiring diagram. Some photo's of the work in progress. Chas

I posted this in someone elses thread, but decided to start a new one here. It may be useful for other members having problems with the TIU. These systems are getting old and starting to fail more often than not. A couple of months ago I had problems with water in the fuel system. After cleaning it all out, draining the tank replacing the fuel filter the engine ran normal again. When I took it for a drive I was lucky to limp back home with the engine coughing and backfiring. Went through the EFI bible test and found some poor soldering joints on the aftermarket injector connectors and some minor things. It still would not run right once it warmed up. It was great cold, but once it warmed up bang it started all over again. The tacho was bouncing a little, but it didn't seem enough to be the ignition module and it checked out ok. I thought the tacho bounce was due to the lurching forward and stalling of the engine. To eliminate the ignition I changed to a HEI Module (a cheap $10.00 unit to test with) and the engine has ran perfectly ever since. The ignition unit played up fierce when it was hot, but its been running perfect for the last two months. Here are some photo's of the temporary fix to see if it was the TIU. This is the unit I used to do the testing and if all goes well I plan to upgrade to Flame Thrower. Now its up and running my next step will be to install the HEI Module in the old TIU casing. Chas

WOW would never have thought a gear knob would make so much noise. Great to hear you found it:) Chas