EuroDat

Lol. You're not blind. It's something that seems to have been forgotten by the designers and thats why there is so much discussion about how to install and adjust it in this thread.

It's not mentioned in any of the manuals. The later 280Z manuals show it on some diagrams, but not further information about positioning and purpose of the bumper stop. Here is a screenshot of the 1977 280Z manual out of the downloads section on this site.

Yes. Holes are offset. Only fits one way.

Looks like you have the o-ring reverse lock out and the o-ring and seal for the striking rod. While you are at it would be the time to change the o-ring and seal in the speedo adapter. O-ring 32710-14600 (24.00×2.50mm) & Lip seal 32709-14600 (14/16×4.2mm). If you don't buy original, make sure they are from NBR or Viton. Not EPDM. Also: Check all the small springs in the selectors and choose the set with the longest free length/strongest of the two transmissions. Trust me, they DO make a difference. The springs under the synchro detent are also very important. They give the transmission that click snap into gear feel. A lot of people spend a lot of time on the synchro ring and forget theses. Great job on painting the trany housing. Looking good

Yes they do look similar indeed. The giveaway on the T5 is the split bellhousing.

It's a FS5W71B close ratio. The speedo bolt is located downwards, one exhaust hanger ear on drivers side and reverse lock out on drivers side. The 71C would have a completely different gear selector on top. The ebay photo above is not a 71C. Looks similar, but it's a BW T5

Wow, I didn't know the handbrake lever could get it to the vertical position. Hope thats not an indication of the degree of maintenance

If it is an 82, it is not a 71C. Most likely a 71B wide ratio out of a 280ZX 2+2 NA or the close ratio out of the 280ZX coupe NA. If he is asking $1000 I would expect the close ratio version. You can easily identify the close ratio by features on the case. If you can find the parts or like Zed Head said a donor transmission, then rebuilding this one might be the cheaper option. Again like Zed head said, this is not a common failure. You could find a trany with a blown centre bearing with the parts you need. Unfortunately the main shaft is NOT the same in the F4W71B. You can use the FS5W71B wide or close ratio main shafts.

1. YES. You should fit a gutter. 2. ? 3. Not sure which transmission you have. Have s look in the document in link. Not sure if this transmission is worth rebuilding with the costs of a new input shaft, main shaft, 3rd/4th hub and bearing kit. Might be better to find snother and pick the best parts of the two and add a bearing kit.

Looks like the needle bearing was the cause of yhe hub failure. Not much help now, but intrresting to know what caused the hub to fail. Why the needle roller cage failed? Could have been a assemble fault. The rest of the transmission looks to good to be normal wear and tear on the needle bearing. Maybe someone tapped the input shaft in with a hammer. I am with John @Av8ferg on this one. Now is the time to look for another transmission.

I think the sizes are as follows. You should be able to find a M12 easy enough or tap the 1/4" out to 3/8" NPT. Temp gauge: M16×1.5mm Thermotime: M14×1.5mm Water temp: M12×1.5mm (for fuel injection control) Water temperature switch: 1/4" BSPT. (Not the same as NPT. Has 19 threads per inch and NPT has 18.)

You can buy a simple thermostat kit and the thermostat switch should fit in the position for the thermotime switch on the 280ZX thermostat housing.-

If you do strip it for parts, I'd be interested in the front housing. Not show how it would go shipping it to Europe with prices for shipping these days.

Cliff, why does that not surprise me Its a little bit my guilty pleasure too. And my wife looks over and sees what Im scrolling through just says, "omg MEN" I just past 10 years and didn't realise it until now.

Before you start hunting parts, can you tell what the marks on the front gears are? I can't get a clear view in the two photos marked in red circle. if the input shaft and front counter shaft gear are damaged, it might be cheaper to source a 5 speed and fit a bearing kit. And I'm saying "Might be!!!" These transmision and parts are getting harder to find so you will need to know what you ned first and then check your options. The hub broke very clean. My best geuss is it happened when you went from forth back to third. The damage was done when you was in forth, but the pieces stayed in place until the gear sleeve slid over to third. It's an interesting failure, one I have not yet seen in person. And now why did the hub go through so much stress? It could be a worn neddle bearing between the input and main shafts causing mis-alignment between the shafts. It would be interesting to see how much wear on the needle bearing and surfaces.

Ouch. Main shaft hub exploded in the 4th gear section of the hub. Don't see that happen much. The main shaft in front of the adapter plate in the 4 speed and 5 speed use the same parts. You should be able to find a hub easy enough. I'm very sure the early FS5W71C uses the same hubs on 1&2 en 3&4 positions. Early meaning the FS5W71C with the 16mm gears. Are those chips in the front counter shaft gear/input shaft? The photo blurs a lot when I zoom in.

You could try this site. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/32609e9000 I think the parts you are quoting are for the later 300ZX transmissions. I think the only insert that fits the early models is the 5th gear. The early 83-84 model 300ZX should be the same as the 280ZX. The one with the 16mm gears. I have ordered parts through Amayama before. All genuine Nissan parts sent from Japan. Took about three weeks to get here in NL.

Sounds like you have the wide ratio FS5W71B which is the original version 5 speed for the 280Z. The test you did with the clutch disengaged (depressed) tells you your problem is inside the transmission. You can determine if your problem is in the cluster shaft or main shaft by driving through all the gears. If a bearing in the cluster shaft is damaged it will be noticable in all the gears except forth gear. The bearings that tend to go first are the bearings in the adapter plate in the centre of the transmission. If could be the adapter plate bearing for the cluster shaft or the main shaft. Check for metal in the oil.

Yes. I saw the nicoclub link, but missed the nissanpartsdeal link. Didn't know that site was still working.

Still available through nissan

For those that want the original part nr. According to my documents it is P/N: 32219-V5260.

Chris. You're a master zed restorer

The bumpers are very different . The early pre august version does not compress as much as the later version. Thatis way the shockslook a lot shorter in carpartsmanual, the bumper does not push in as far. That being said, you can change a later model 280Z back to the early version if you have all the parts. The bolt pattern for mounting the shocks are the same on bothversions. So if you have all the components from a early model it would work. The bumper components are not interchangable. The shocks, chrome section and rubber ends are all different.

Found some photos I made for someone wanting photos of the horn mounting position.

IMark, If you need photos of the 77 bumper shacks, I can take as many as you need. I still have the old bumper and shocks, but no ends. Gave them to the Captain. Jai could have it all for free, but shipping would be out of this world.