EuroDat

The Maxima would be a good option, but they are getting harder to find these days. The clamping force is OEM spec and you can get an aftermarket performance clutch to match the 240mm clamping force. A collegue (after restructuring has left the company) had a 260Z and he used a performance clutch (I cant remember the brand) and it was slightly heavier than the 240mm pressure plate. That was just feeling the two, we didn't weigh them, regret that now. Would have been usefull information. His clutch pedal was a lot heavier after he installed it. My pedal is the same as when I had the 225mm clutch and that is what I wanted to keep. Now I have a heavy duty clutch, but you don't feel the difference. Chas

The 810/Maxima (L24) flywheel is interchangable. It weighs 8kg compared to the 10kg the Zeds use. Its also a 225mm disc flywheel. I use my car for street use and don't rev it very hard. The lightened flywheel is the best performance mod I could do with my 280Z running L-Jetronic EFI. Certainly made it zappier around town. The flywheel is now a little lighter than the Maxima flywheel Chas

The flywheels are different on two points: 1: There is a groove in the surface just outside the clutch disc contact area on both flywheels. On the 225mm it starts around 228mm which is in the contact area of the 240 clutch disc. The groove is too deep to machine out. 2: The 240mm pressure plate has 9 bolts holding it down and the 225mm has 6 bolts. The 6 bolts will line up on the 240mm flywheel so in theory you could drill the other three holes in the 225mm flywheel to fit the 240mm pressure plate, but then you would still have the groove to deal with. The collor for the 280Z/ZX 2+2 is the one you want for the 240mm pressure plate. Its 4 mm shorter than the normal 280Z collar, but longer than the 240Z series 1 and the later 240Z / 260Z collars. Chas

Just to add to the info on the flywheels. Both the 225mm and the240mm flywheels will fit. The pressure plates are not interchangable. I have heard (NOT confirmed) that the 225 will fit to the 240 flywheel, but why would you use a 225 pressure plate on a 240mm flywheel? The general rule rates the 225mm clutch at 550lbs and the 240mm at 725lbs. There is a thread here with a sketch on how to machine these flywheels showing where and how much to cut. If you follow the sketch it should drop the weight from 23lbs to about 15-16lbs.

It will work, but there are some things you need to consider before you do that. The differences are: Early E88 head (Jan to Aug 71) has 42.4 cc chambers, Later E88 have 44.7cc or 44.8cc. N47 has 44.6 so you will see a little difference in CR if you have an early head. Note the L28 has dished pistons. Thats why its chambers are simmilar to the E88. You will need to notch the cylinders to use the N47 head because the inlet valve will hit the top of the cylinder. The N47 has 44mm instead of 42mm in the E88. You will also need an exhuast manifold with round ports. The E88 has square ports and the N47 changed to round. The N47 uses a liner in the exhaust port for emmisions. Why do you want to change the head or is it because of the exhaust manifold? Might be easier to just get another manifold. Chas

Somewhere in August 76 they changed the rear wheel cylinders to the one that fits both sides. Your car is most probably just after the change that month. The fuel tank sender changed from front to top entry in July 76, so you should have the same as the 78 model. You are probably finding information in the 76 FSM is refering to the pre July/August model. It might be better to use the FSM from 77 for those sections. There are a couple of sites were you can download them like Datsun Service Manuals - NICOclub or XenonS30 Chas

Hi Jeff, I somehow missed the l in html on the end. It should work now. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48611-fitting-240z-bumpers-valences-280z.html Haz, Excellent work on the dash. Looks good. Chas

Thats a really nice job you are doing HaZmatt. Its going to a great looking Zed when you're finished. Here is a thread on the 240Z bumper conversion. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48611-fitting-240z-bumpers-valences-280z.htm I made mine reversable for now, but will probably go the way Tamo did in post #8 & #11. The photo's in those two posts show whats needed to fit the bumpers correctly. You wont be able to use the 240Z valance panels because the crossmember drops down to low in the 280Z for the larger radiator. The easiest way to correct this is to fit a Xeon Airdam or retain the original valance with 280Z grill/indicators and modify the lower grill to fill the gap under the bumper. Looking forward to watching your progress. Chas

I would like to see some photo's when you get them. $90.00 is a good deal for custom made. Im thinking of buying a set of HEL NIS-4-005-X for my 280Z, but all the photo's on the internet show banjo fittings. My intentions were to just replace the hoses and leave the original piping in place.

Try Steve, I believe he makes all the grommets in the thread you linked with exception to the throttle bellows. See Steve's thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/garage-hobbyist/49264-240z-fuel-brake-line-insulator-sets-steering-rack-expansion-reservoir.html The throttle linkage bellows can be purchased at MSA, Blackdragon and other 240Z specialists. Chas

Hey Siteunseen, I think the one in the photo is the static type and its the second link you posted. I have seen them over here on a couple of volvo p1800 with D-jetronic systems. One of the guys lives in our street and his won't keep pressure longer than a day. He can't believe mine holds 1.9bar after 6weeks. Guess my check valve and FPR are in good condition. Your fuel rail looks great, certainly cleaned up the manifold area, even with the zip tyes on the FPR. Tomohawk's looks top with all that bling bling. One more thing to add to my "to do list" Chas

Sounds like one of the two sections "might" still has air in it. Thats why the shuttle in the switch shoots over to one side setting off the brake light. Pumping the brakes will compress the air and build-up pedal. The switch will then return to its normal center position. In your first post you didn't mention how you adjusted the rear brakes. The E-brake can be used to adjust the rear brakes, if its working properly. Get someone to apply it several times to see if you can hear clicking in the drums. Thats the adjusters ticking over. If it doesn't do that, then there is someone no working right in the back brakes. If the adjustment is way off, you will also need to pump the brakes rapidly to get pedal. The MC may not have enough capacity in one stroke to push the shoes out to the drum. This could also be contributing to your problem. Thats way I think it might still be air, but this could also be your problem. Another test you can do is to remove the switch from the switch unit (don't remove piping) and check which way the shuttle is moving. Its hard to see, but you can use the back end of a small drill bit to feel which direction the shuttle goes when someone pushes the pedal down. It will push the bit towards the front or back and then upwards 1 or 2mm. The direction front or back is what your trying to determine. The direction it moves towards is the section causing the balance issue. That will narrow it down to front or back. Goodluck and keep at it, you will get there. Chas

You might want to start reading up on the 71B if you decide to go that route. Nissan had three versions in the 280Z/280ZX. A so called "wide ratio" in the 280Z and two almost identical (5th is different) "close ratios" in the ZX. They also came in other models like the 720 truck series, which had three versions. This thread is running atm and will give you a good starting point. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/52177-gearbox-id.html Chas

Great video, thanks for posting. That number 34 must of been a PITA, specially with that stunt down the end of conrod. Brings back memories watching the A9X, XU1 and the old XA Falcon doing laps. Didn't see any XY GTHO's or HT Holdens, getting rare these days. My father used to race motorcycles on the mountain, very long time ago. I might still have a couple of photo's somewhere. Chas

Just to be clear. An adjustable FPR is actually a static pressure regulator. It will maintain a static 36psi across all engine conditions because it doesn't have the vacuum servo to compensate for vacuum in the inlet manifold. Adjustable being in this case, adjusted to a certain static pressure. The ECU on the other hand is expecting the FPR to adjust fuel pressure to follow the vacuum in the manifold that way maintaining a 36psi pressure difference across the injector tip.

Going by the number you quoted from the Tag Id plate, its a T5 from a late 82 or early 83 Turbo 280ZX. The ZX turbo came with two versions. The first one (code E) had Ratios 3.50, 2.14, 1.38, 1.00, 0.78 and reverse 3.76. The second version (code J) had ratios 3.35, 2.08, 1.38, 1.00, 0.78 and reverse 3.15. There was a third version released in Germany for the last 4 months of production, so Im guessing it wont be that one:bulb: The code E has a very low first gear. Both are not really close ratio when compared with the 280ZX N/A 71B transmission which is 3.06, 1.86, 1.31, 1.00, 0.77 and reverse 3.03 You should be able to check which one it is. You keep quoting the casting numbers, but they don't tell you much in the end, nothing really. The ID plate and the ratios are the only way to find out which one it is. Identifying and Assembling a T5 5 Speed BTW Your mustache bar is mounted upside down.

Most people change over to the FPR from the ZX models. They have one inlet and one oulet and the return piping is routed around the back of the head. You can use the version fron the 280Z, but you will need to block one of the inlets or pipe it back to the CSV. I think Pallnet supplies his rail with a barb between 2 and 3 injectors for the CSV. Motorsport has both FPR so you can see the difference. Motorsport! Fuel Pressure Regulators - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts There is another member on Hibridz making fuel rails atm going by the name cockerstar. Chas

Hi Chris, The Nissan OEM's are better. In quality of metal and craftmanship maybe no better than top quality aftermarket, but you have the possibility to adjust the amount of end clearance with the different size circlips. I used Nissan on my drive shaft and also purchased two full sets of circlips. See post #15 in this thread. They come in 4 sizes 2.00 through to 2.06mm. Doesn't sound like much but 0.06mm can be a cause for that irritating gear stick chatter. Remember the tailshaft has the potential to be one of the fastest rotating items in the drivetrain, turning up to 120% of engine speed in 5th gear. Chas

+1 on yakhoppers post. Does the frequency of the wobble increase with speed and then go away? It could be balance or a bad tyre. You could try swapping front to back and see if it improves and get the wheels balanced. Has the car been standing for a long time with wheels on the ground. That can cause flat spots which can wobble the wheel at low speeds and vibrate at higher speed until the flat spot eventually goes away. Typical after a winter stop. Chas Edit: If your not used to racks, they tend to be more direct. One thing for sure, if anything is clunking or wobbling in the steering, you will feel it sooner in a rack & pinion car.

Yer, me too:(

I would agree with Mark. Sounds more like a drive shaft problem. Is the rattle speed related or engine revs? If its speed then its a strong possability its in the drive shaft. My tranny makes noise in fifth gear. Forth is so quiet compared to fifth. You don't want to know how much I spent on all the bearings, sleeve and stuff, its a lot better, but still not good. I changed my uni-joints in the drive shaft and the two half shafts. I purchased Nissan uni-joints and two sets of circlips for the drive shaft. The front uni needed 2.00 circlips on the yoke and 2.04 on the drive shaft. The rear used 2.02 all round. Make sure you use the same for opposite side cups otherwise you will set the shaft off centre. 0.04mm doesn't sound much, but Nissan thought it was and I think its important to center the drive shaft as much as possible. I used Moog uni-joints on the two half shafts. If the uni-joints don't fix it, then checking the balance would be my next step. You can check if its bent by jacking one wheel off the ground and hold a screwdriver so it just touches the centee section of the shaft. With the tranny in neatral, get someone to rotate the wheel by hand. If it has any runout its not a good sign. Chas

Hi Chris, That is interesting. Your photo's clearly show brass teeth on the rings on the fifth gear synchros. Like I mentioned, I have read about fibre synchros on the fifth somewhere, but never seen one or known anyone who has. It could be just a myth or in other Nissan models. How did you go with your transmission rebuild? Thanks for posting Chas

Nice photo's Thanks Zed. That answers my question on the 1980 box. I have also heard the 1979-80 "close ratio" transmission uses a fibre 5th gear synchro, but like I said, never seen one or had one apart. Martin. Here are the parts I used in my transmission 2 years ago. The prices are Nissan dealer prices in Holland. I ended up buying a overhaul kit. The parts not in the kit came from the Nissan dealer. Chas

Hi Charles, Welcome to the club. Plenty of friendly members to give advice when needed. Where to start? Maybe post some photos of your new untouched project. We all like eye candyLOL It also gives the members a good idea where you are to start with and then you can get some really good pointers on what to look out for and how to go further. Pay a visit to Blue's Tech Tips. Its well worth the read. Carl Beck has a good site for info on the Z Car Home Page Chas

Hi Martin, I got your PM, but thought I would post here. Of all the 5 photo's, the first one intrigues me the most. The speedo bolt is positioned at the bottom, but the housing doesn't seem to have the same shape like the later 280ZX transmissions have (See centre photo). It could be a 280ZX 1980 version. I have never seen one of the 1980 versions. Maybe someone here has a photo of a 1980 transmission with this section? The PO probably used the shifter out of the 240Z. They are, like Zed Head said, interchangable although some do have a slightly different shape. Another senario although unlikly: The transmission is from the 720 truck series which had this transmission fitted behind the L20B, Z20, Z22 and Z24 engines. It will fit, but he must have used his 240Z bell housing to do it. He would also use his shifter because the trucks had a longer version. This would mean its a wide ratio transmission. there are 3 versions and the later version being the same as the 280Z wide ratio, but Im no expert on the 720 transmissions. This will give you an idea of the ratios used in the 71B. You have to order parts to get it road legal?? What do you want to do to the transmission? If its a rebuild (bearings and seals) then even a bearing and synchro kit for a FS5W71C will work with exception of the front cluster shaft bearing. You don't need to know if its a wide or close ratio for those parts. Shifter bushings, gaskets, seals and shaft nuts are all available through your local Nissan dealer and the bearings can be purchased at a bearing supplier. Ordering a bearing kit from the US can cost a lot more due to shipping. If you need part numbers, let me know. I have most of the original and replacement numbers. Chas