EuroDat

I first had a 20k ohm pot, but its adjustment was so course I couldn't fine tune it easily. After that "fail" atempt, I ordered a 2000 ohm pot and two 4700 ohm resistors. Coupled them all in seires (the resistances add up giving me a total of 11400 ohm. In the end the 2000 ohm pot was enough and its now adjusted to about 650 ohm. You could try a 10k with a 4700 resistor in series and if its two touchy remove the resistor and tune with just the pot. Chas

I don't know if the temp resistor will compensate enough, but with flat tops you're going to be in the mid 10's CR depending on head gasket thickness. It won't like standard pump gas much. Chas

I have been playing with my AFM the last couple of days. The air temperature sensor was shorted, so I fitted an alternative thermal couple. After that I calibrated the spring using the procedure on the atlanticz site and it ran very lean after that. So lean that I couldn't correct it with my varible 2000ohm resistor in the water temperature sensor circuit. In the end I took it out on the road and kept decreasing the tension until it started running to rich and worked out a point in between. The spring is about 125grams compared to the 148grams on the site. The resistor is now set at about 650ohms. Ill post some photo later if you want. Also have a video of the spring working with engine reving. See my thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/51993-faulty-air-temperature-sensor.html Chas

Quick Status update. I found a thermal couple for a floor heating system I had left over from our central heating. It has a quicker response time than the water temp sensor and the same resistance span over the temerature range. Thats comparing the water temperature sensor (out of the engine) with the thermal couple using a hair dryer. Its a little different in shape and I had to make a plate to get it to fit in the AFM. Its now glued in the plate and drying. Only thing left is to trim the cable to length, fit the crimp termanals and install it in the AFM. That will be tomorrow. Here are some photo's to give you an idea what I mean. ZED: I checked the wiring and couldn't see any damaged, so it looks like its in the sensor itself. Thanks for the tip on removing the sensor. I managed to get mine out undamaged so I could compare it to the AEG sensor. Mine looks pretty scruffy, but it works and came out in one piece. Bart: Trying to fix the temp sensor first before replacing the whole AFM and these things are not so common here in NL. Chas

That screwdriver trick is often mentioned in older factory service manuals. Its even shown in our FI Bible on page 36LOL Ive used it at work on a homogenizer we use for cell breaking. The young guys thought I was crazy, but I found number 4 vavle had something in it and it did, an o-ring. That shut them upLOL You are right Sarah, The mechanics stethoscope is 10 times better, but if you don't have anything else a screwdriver will do.

Hope its not your cam. If its running rich, it could be the spring tension in the AFM. I have seen a "performance" tip where they release a vit of the spring tension to add more fuel. If someone has tempered with it like that, it could be the cause. A lot of the ECU drift problems gennerally cause lean running, but the spring is one of the exceptions. Chas

Last weekend I had trouble with water in my fuel tank, so I started cleaning the fuel system and did some other checks while I was at it. The engine had developed a hesitation and sometimes backfiring. The fuel pressure was ok so did some further checking of the throttle switch and the AFM using the EFI Bible. The throttle switch checked out ok, but the temperature sensor in the AFM was measuring 4ohms. According to the manual is should be reading about 2500ohms at 20degreeC:disappoin As a temporary fix Ive fitted a 2250ohm resistor to simulate 20degrees C. We are having a very mild winter here atm. I don't think the sensor is available anymore, if it ever was available. Now I have to find a more permenate fix or wait for Lenny's Hellfire and goto MAP or MAF:bulb: An alternative would be to fit a temperature sensor used for the water temperature and wiring it in the back of the terminal block. You could fit it in the flat section on the throttle body side of the AFM. The sensor has the same temperature/resistance curve, but I don't know if it would have the same response time. Chas

I would change the MC. An old MC is often pitted and corroded in the sections where the piston seals dont reach. When you bleed the brakes the seals will be damaged when they move over this corrosion and fail shortly after. If Im bleeding the brakes with an old MC, I use a vacuum bleeder. That way I don't have to push the pedal to the floor and damage the piston seals. The rears wheel cylinders are generally hard to bleed. Sometimes leaving it settle a couple of hours and try again can help. That lets the air accumulatein sections instead of small bubbles through the hole system. Chas

I read in a Holden HT Monaro workshop manual (very long time ago) that the bushes are designed to rotate a maximum of 22degrees in both directions (up and down). I can't remember the figures on the car itself, but the suspension travelled a less than that, so I believe there is a certain amount of safety margin built in to compensate for differences in vehicle road height. The Monaro had more travel down than up and in a lowered car the effect would increase the downward amount. Therefore if you had a suspension with say 30degrees movement and the road height at the rest position was at 18degrees (18 down and 12 up). Tightening the bushes in the down position (suspension hanging) would mean they are under a lot of tension when the car is at rest on the ground. Not good for the bushes. Driving over bumps, causing small amouts of movement upwards, would send the tension over 22 degrees and damage the bushes. If the suspension reached the bump stops it would have then 30degrees on the bushes, way over the limit. If the bushes had been tightened at rest position, they would only reach a maximum of 18 degrees downward movement. I don't know what the figures are for the Datsun S30, but the bushes would probably have similar figures. I think the inner and outer diameter of the bush would also be a determining factor. A larger distance between the inner and outer ring means more rubber to flex and a greater rotation radius. Chas

If its lean mixture, you can check the AFM circuits, throttle switch and the temp sensor. They are good sources for backfiring when they go bad. The test you can do with a multimeter and are all described in the 280Z fuel injection bible. In the Test#1 section. If it was running well before you move, good chance its a dirty contact or something along that line. Here is a link to a method to calibrate the AFM spring. Unless someone has played with it, I don't think that is causing your problem. Springs get weaker over time which means the ECU will give more fuel. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html Chas Edit: Dam that car looks good:love:. Impressive job in such a short time. Hats of to you. Ford racing: shame on youLOL

Grats, another good find. Luck is on your side finding these things;)

Hi Bart, The vibration problem is one hell of away to fast track your restoration. All jokes aside. If another set of wheels (mine;)) don't fix it, then I have no idea what will. It can't be in the engine or gearbox because you would feel that at lower speeds in the lower gears with the same revs and you have changed just about everthing that rotates. Chas

I have the same problem. I think someone used a hoist in the wrong place. Nice work Jason. It will be a dam nice Zed when its finished. Ill be waiting for the next update;) Chas

When you say you checked, do you mean checked by following the FSM of FI Bible? The so called bible has a great diagnostic section you can go through with the FSM. Just need a multimeter and some cable to do voltage tests. Only needs a bad connection to mix up the ECU. Here is a link to the FSM and the "FI Electronic fule injection guide" is in the Others section further down the page. XenonS30 Chas

The oversized O-ring is probably made of EPDM. EPDM is used for the brake system, but that material will swell up a lot when it comes in contact with petroleum / mineral oil based products. It kept doing its job until you released it. Don't like your chances of getting it back in;) Time for a new one. The right material is Viton or NBR. Chas

The 280ZX thermostate housing on your engine will work, just need to change the vacuum switch for a thermo switch. It looks like the brown one, but smaller hex head. The housing looks very dirty, but that could be only on the outside. Could be risky removing the switch to fit the other thermo switch. If you can get hold a new one for a 280Z would be safer.

A good place to start is the FSM. You can download it here: XenonS30 Follow the steps in the section EE (Engine Electrical section) Chas

Captain Obvious started a thread on alternative check vavles to solve the same problem you are having. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/51862-fuel-pump-check-valve-alternatives.html Which inlet manifold are you running; webbed or open?

I don't have many photo's of mine down the right side of the engine bay, but here are two which will give you an idea what has been removed on yours. The old voltage regulator should be under the metal beacket that the fusable links are mounted on. You are missing some of the AC stuff on the left side and the idle servo unit on the inlet manifold is gone. I can see an AC dryer on the left side of the engine bay in your last photo. Maybe the PO rerouted a non dealer/nissan system?

Welcome the world of Zeds It looks like a 77 to me, but I could be wrong? Oil sender is pre 78 and the fuel lines along the frame rail fit description for 77 onwards. The vac thermo switch on the thermostat housing shouldn't be there. Did the PO change the housing with one out of a ZX? Looking at all the disconnected wiring under the fusable links indicates he has been playing/removing and modifying stuff there too. All the A/C equipment and the vacuum acumulator for the idle are gone. The voltage regulator is gone or not connected, should be underneath behind the fusable links. He must have done the ZX alternator swap. The fusable links don't look very good. You can buy fusable link sets and new cover on ebay. Dry the water out, replace the links and fit new covers. If they are cleaned, dry and corrosion free they should not give you any trouble. Chas

Did the "burn test" on the "water" out ofthe tank. It wouldn't burn at all so its water for sure. The total was a little over 2 litres, thats what I collected at the fuel filter and tank. A bit less than my first estimates, but still enough to cause the engine to stutter and give up like I turned the ignition key off. The large container I used for collecting the fuel out of the tank has some rust and stuff on the bottom. Looks like Ill be cleaning the tank after all. If it doesn't give me anymore problems I would like to wait until next winter. Called in the tell him about my problem, but he had to many customers and I didn't want tomention it with everyone there listening. I have a feeling he wont care all that much. Also called in on the boat workshop at an inland harbour close by home. The old guy just looked at me and laught, went out the back muttering something, but I couldn't undertand his dialect. He came back with a 0.5ltr cola bottle full and charged me €7.00 for it. He explained that he orders the stuff in 5ltr containers, thats explained the cola bottle. I did catch the brand name Heet, but he was rattling on in his dialect, I could barely keep up. His instructions: Drain as much of the fuel you can and fill it up and add the coke bottle. It wont damage seals, injectors, rubber and stuff like that and it will absorb all the left over water in the system. Chas

Looking good. Must feel good to be making so much "visual" progress. Chas

You can test the rail by removing the FPR and doing a flow test. The pump should free flow at least 2litres per minute into a container. I did one last weekend, but I did it after the fuel filter. There is a photo in the thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/51923-weekend-drive-engine-hesitating-then-gave-up-altogether-water-fuel.html That would save you removing the fuel rail. Chas

The snorkel goes back to the engine bay. Could it be to prevent water satuating the filter when driving in a down pour or close behind another vehicle in rainy weather. The efficiency of a filter will reduce considerably when wet. That corner of the engine bay might be the dryest place they could find. Chas

I would go with the body colour. Thats the way it came from the factory and the way everyone expects it to be. I have the same problem as rcb280Z. My engine bay is 305 light metallic blue and the rest is some kind of red the PO painted. It a hassle to do the engine bay, but eventually I do it and the body the same colour. Welcome to the club. Chas