EuroDat

Also handy to buy enough hose so you can tape the gauge to the wiper arm and view it through the window while test driving. You wont need it at this stage, but later it could handy to see what it does when driving.

Hi Dc, Thats the tyre size your quoting. Sort of depends on how wide the rims are and the brand of tyre also makes a difference. Are you using rolled fenders, car lowered etc? Basically not enough information so someone can give you any sort of reliable answer. Chas

Site, I have no idea what that RC39 means, but I have seen it somewhere else in a thread or maybe even on my transmission. Just can't for the life of me remember where:ermm:. I do some digging through my photo's. I didn't know they started noting that information on the ID plate. Does the 2+2 have the close ratio 71B or the earlier ZX transmission? The diff would also be something to grab. If its the same as the couple, which I think it is, it will be the 3.9:1. When coupled with the close ratio, it would give the Z some extra spice off the mark. What also would be a good buy, 2+2 has the larger 240mm flywheel. Its a bolt upgrade on the standard 220mm clutch. Makes a great upgrade and maintaining the standard clutch feel. Great for the missus and still plenty of grab. Chas

Bart, That sounds like good news. Hope it solves your problem after all the effort you have put in trying to find it. Chas

Im not sure what you mean here, but you only need a pressure gauge that can go upto 60psi and a T-barb to tie in between the fuel filter and fuel rail. The FPR you have is the later version which has one inlet and one return to tank. The early version has two inlets and one return to tank. None came with a gauge to measure pressure. Motorsport! Fuel Pressure Regulator, 78-83 Z/ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Chas

I didn't realise nissan made the turbo AFM with a A31-624 part nr. I thought they started at A31-630. Nice of them to throw one somewhere in between all the NA units. Some people go with a Toyota Cresseda AFM and transplant the 280Z NA electronics onto it to get the bigger AFM. I don't know your AFM cna be calibrated for the NA. Interesting subject... Chas

Its the dowels thats more than likely holding it together. Just a small amount of corrosion (aluminium oxide) will freeze up the dowel pins. PB blaster of ATF/acetone mix might get in and loosen it up. Be carefull using a hammer. The extruded areas extending out past the block are tempting targets, but are also prone to cracking and breaking off. Better to use a drift or something that will get closer to the engine block. Try to hit close to the bottom section of the left side of the engine block and the top section above the starter. That is the general location of the lower ring around the bottom left bolt and the top dowel. Chas

According to the manual, the pedal height should be 220mm from the floor. My pedal is about 205mm and the free travel is about 15mm. Im running a Close ratio ZX 5sp with a 2+2 (240mm) flywheel and clutch, so its a bit of a mix of several models. Im not exactly according to the manual, but it changes just fine with a smooth pedal all the way to the floor. That depends a lot on the pressure plate you are using. The clutch pedal should always return to the stop position. If its not, the MC rod is holding it back or the anchor bush is seizing up. I take it the pedal moves freely. Is the M/C rod mounted in the top hole? The M/C rod should be fitted in the top hole which is forward of the centre line of the pedal arm. The second "lower" hole is back towards the driver and used for the return spring. If these are switched, you can adjust the M/C rod out fully and still not reach the pedal stop. It does make a big difference and could be the cause of your troubles. Other simple tests you can do are: 1. Measure the clutch fork to the front of the bell housing: Should be around 110mm. 2. If someone depresses the clutch pedal. The york should travel to approximatly 125mm. Its about 15mm +/-2mm of travel at the end of the clutch fork. Given everything is adjusted right. The 110 and 125 could be a little different with your clutch. 3. You should be able to push the fork about 5 - 10mm into the slave from the rest position. This will give it enough travel to compensate for clutch disc wear. 4. Air is the system can cause a lot of probelms, but from your description. I think, if it has some air in the system, its not the primary cause of your problem. Chas

Asking which is better is a loaded question. You will get a lot of pro's and con's from both the 280Z & 240Z groups. In the end all the negatives you mentioned are changable. I ended up with a 280Z because it was absolutly the best rust free Z I could find. Its an ex Cal car that has been in a heated garage for the last 25years. Since then Im doing my best to make it look like a 240ZLOL. I have changed the front bumper and the above bumper turn signals to 240Z and the back will be bumperless soon. Not sure if Ill go so far as to change the taillights. There is nothing stopping you from putting a L28 and 5sp in a 240Z. The SU's will work on the L28, might need larger needles and the later ignitions and alterators are readily available. Rust was my driver when looking for a Z. They all have it somewhere, just have to look long enough. The website Steve linked is a great source for information Chas

If its still running original pistons, it will have 7.4:1 CR. The P90, P90a and P79 (P79 is NA head in the 280ZX) all have the same chamber capacity 53.6cc. The turbo engines used dished pistons like the 280Z to reduce the CR. Thats why going for the N42 is a good bolt in option (Except for the Silicon/Bronze valve seats need to be replaced with steel). Im using a A31-626-000 on a NA unit. The AFM you have should work alright. There are lots of different part numbers for the ECU. They did small changes to them quiet a lot over the years. The 280Z started with A11-600-000 I think and they ended somewhere around A11-639-800 in the NA 280ZX. Chas

IMHO Since your setup is a mixed up combination of turbo and non turbo equipment, I would go back to NA. Its the most logical IMO. The steps you could take to to it are not that hard and you might come out in front pocket wise Find a N42 head. It has the recesses for the injectors, but you will need to get the valve seats done. That head will get your compession back up to standard 280Z CR 8.3:1. The NA engine in the 280Z had the N42 block with the same dished pistons (10.9cc). I wouldn't go looking for an E31 head. They will bolt on, but they are getting hard to find which means $$$$ and you will need to do the work with replacing valves, and valve seats. It wont get the high 240Z CR with the dished pistons. You will actually get a CR around 8.6:1. Still good, but there are alternatives. The N47 on the Maxima (Not the 280Z) would be much better and will increase your CR to just under 9.1:1 which is where the E31 was on the L24. Don't compare it to the N47 on the 280Z. It has "closed" quench chambers and doesn't have the exhaust port emmision liners. You will need another exhaust manifold which is stamped N43 for the N42 head or N36 for the 260Z will also fit. It should have square ports. Fit your injectors (Green are JECS N76, I believe. They NA injectors) and inlet manifold to the new head. The AFM you have is for a NA engine Finally: Sell the turbo and P90a head to recoupe your costs on the other head. Its the route I would take and I think it would make a nice stock engine and a lot less hassle than what you would go through trying to find all the parts you need to get your current setup running right. This is considering the bottom end it still in good servicable condition. A compression test will tell you more on that. Chas

Hi Ron, I think the #3 (on yours and my transmission) is a quality control reference for the casting blocks used to make the housings. No idea what the NMCA means. I can't prove it isn't Nissan Motor Co. Australia. Maybe someone here knows more about it? Chas

It only has one spur on the left side which dates it to somewhere between 1980 and 1983 280ZX. Im not sure of the month they changed in 1980. You can do a simple test to check the ratios. Remove the spark plugs and jack up one of the rear wheels. Start with the engine at TDC timing marks and mark the postion of the drive shaft on the rear of the transmission. Turn the engine 3 full revolutions and line it up on TDC. If the mark on the transmission/driveshaft almost line up, then you have a close ratio 81-83 ZX transmission. If its about 1/6th of a revolution off the mark then you have the early ZX. Ratios 280Z.- 280ZX (close ratio) 1st. 3.321.- 3.062 2nd. 2.077.- 1.858 3rd. 1.308.- 1.308 5th. 0.864.- 0.745 I think the 79-80 ZX had a slightly different first gear ratio, but is more or less the same as the 280Z. Chas

The rear of the transmission helps tell you which version it is and then you can work out the ratios. The FS5W71B had three different version through the 280Z up to the 280ZX. Take some photos of that area and post them. Here is an old thread about the different extension housings. It will give you an idea what to look out for. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/49070-transmission-id-quiz.html Chas

The connector on the drivers side is for the washer bottle pump. I also took a photo of the back side of the AC relay connector. The blue/white strip is next to the yellow and blue in underneath. Might help you with locating the wires and refitting them. Unfortunatly our models are a couple of years apart and they differ too much for me to help. Im afraid you will have to study the wiring diagragm and trace it step by step. Chas

Maybe Im not looking at it right, but are you splicing wires with AC relay connector? Thats the small three wire connector with 1 blue, 1 Blue with white stripe and one yellow wire. Your AC relay has one wire going into it. Maybe just something with the models 75 versus 78. Im cleaning all my connectors in the engine bay at the moment, new self made rubber cups etc and now Im buzy with those exact parts. Here are some photo's of the system in my 280Z 77 model, all be it some what disnmantled atm. The big black box (left in photo 1087) is the voltage regulator. The AC compressor relay is the yellow zinc coloured relay to the right. Im probably not helping, but just interested in the differences between the two models. Chas

What Mark is suggesting is probably right. The transmission doesn't seem to be in all that good condition. You probably have a badly worn extention house sleeve and maybe some wear on the yoke which is giving you that excessive vertical movement. The transmission could have run low on oil in its past life or it has a lot of miles on it. Either way it doesnt't sound like a good candidate for rebuilding. Chas

After doing the STI diff swap, the 240SX tranny swap should be a sinch;) You will need the 71B front section, so going back to the 71A while you build the 71C is a good start. Keeps you mobile. Im not sure I understand what you mean by flange on the transmission. Does it have a flange like the diff? It shouldn't. They (71B) normally have a splined yoke that sides inside the transmission. If its flanged, like the roadster 5sp, then the splined section must be an integral part of the driveshaft. If you can feel any movement, specially if its clunking when you move it up and down, its not good. The movement in the input shaft, which is caused by the clearances in C3 bearings over a long distance, is removed by the spigot bearing in the back of the crankshaft. The driveshaft yoke does the same thing for the output shaft. The outside of the yoke slides into a white metal sleeve and its probably worn. The 5sp 71B has a replacable sleeve still available through Nissan, but the older 71B doesn't have the same sleeve as far as I know. Not having seen the inside of a 4sp 71B extension housing, it could be machined out of the housing. Maybe other members could confirm that. Chas

I agree with Blue. The 71C with the B&M shifter will be noticable improvement. Note: there are basically three different 71C's that I know of. The 240SX has the reverse synchro and the 200wide gears. It is the preffered version, but the other version of the 71C will work just as well. There is a model in the 200SX that has a wierd shifter group. I have one out of a 300ZX non turbo, but haven' got round to fitting it yet. See the links Zed head posted in post 2 for info on changing to a 71C. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/parts-swapping-s30/47057-thinking-swapping-300zx-5sp-into-s30-280z-will-fit.html Chas

Good to hear you fixed your voltage problem. IMO half the fun owning a Zed is working on it. My buzzer sounds like its on its last death throughs before giving up all together, but its been doing that for 3 years now and still going. It really attracts attention when someone comes for a ride the first time. You get questions like "is that normal?" I have grown to like it. Chas

Hi Captain, I have some photo's of during the rear suspension rebuild. If its not clear, let me know and I will take some more photo's of the area. Chas

Hi Captain, I was having trouble with posting yesterday. I did see your bump and posted 4 photo's, but something went wrong there too. I post again after I finish here. This all took place a little over two years ago when I was doing the rear suspension and I seen the fuel leak at the pump head and went into that "while Im at it" syndrome. I had good pressure so my plan was to just do the o-rings. That ended up in o-rings, all the hoses, the clamps and a coat of paint the freshen it up. I noticed the different sizes in the grooves and took some measurements on the back side of the paper. See photo. I only had a set of the old non-digital type verniers at home. Shallow depth measurements are hard to measure, so my measurements could be a little off. I normally take fillet into consideration when measuring so the 1.5mm could be just a question of tolerances in my measuring:rolleyes: or from the factory. The inlet cover o-ring is the larger diammeter. Looks like I got that mixed up on the front page. I found the receipt for the o-rings and I ordered one size: The 33.5x2.00mm NBR 70A Part nr. 85000814. Strange that they make two different size grooves. The pump is German made so it could be DIN3771 standard used for the original o-rings. I know that in the seventies Germany used their own standards a lot so I don't think it will be an O-ring from the AS, BS or Le Joint Francias standards. Linear method: Where I work we use the linear length method to measure o-rings in odd shape housings like Lobe pumps etc. We use our standard elastomer suppliers for FDA/USP validation reasons. Some pump suppliers won't give the sizes, just their part numbers. To get around this problem we use a very thin plastic wire (a bit like plasti-gauge). Run that around the inside diameter and overlap the ends. Then cut though where it overlaps with a stanly knife. Remove it, lay it out and measure it with the calipers. Then use pye to calculate diameter. Chas

Just to clarify. I used the same cross section 2.00mm because the depth of both grooves was the same and o-ring squeeze should be between 20 to 30% depending on material and hardness (often noted as Shore A or Duro). Chas

Hi Captain, I posted this morning, but for some reason it didn't work. Now 8 hours later I see it. I found my notes and the old o-rings for my pump. You are right I noticed a difference in the groove width. The depth is 1.5mm for both, but the groove by the motor is 0.5mm wider 3.0mm. The o-rings I used are 33.5x2.00mm and 34.5x2.00mm. They are both according to the JIS B4201 standard. Numbers S-34 and S-35. I ordered them at a local rubber supplier "TechniRub Vizo". See photo for the workings. I did this when I was changing spindle pins and suspensions bushes. Probably why it faded into distance memoryLOL Chas

Yes, They will need to be NBR / Nitrile material. Most plumbing rubber is butyl (of course there are exceptions) and will work but have a shorter life expectancy. Chas