EuroDat

Where I work we use hundreds if not thousands of o-rings in the processing equipment. The most common standard is AS568A and BS-1806, but its a big list. Still site will give you and idea of the common standards, but it doesn't end there: O ring sizes including metric and International standard O-ring sizes. I will look first thing tomorrow morning. If I cant find the info, I can calculate the o-ring size again, but then Ill need some more info. A quick How To in measuring odd shaped o-ring grooves. Chas

I mean the two o-rings and if I remember correctly, they are the same size. I thought I may have taken photo's of the internals with the size written next to it, but I seem to have rebuilt it without taken any photo's of the internals:stupid: You can never take enough photo's. Thats a lesson I have learnt the hard way. Chas

Bob, I have a AFM with type: A31-625-000. Its a JECS. Most of the AFM's for the 280Z have A11-600-000. The ZX can have A11-618-427, A11-639-800 and no doubt more changes over the years. The 3 Auto trans 280ZX's I have seen have A11-604-420 The turbo model uses the A18-000-040. Were does my A31 fit in all that???? Beats me. The photo's are made on a smart phone a couple of years back and not all that clear because of the poor lighting. Chas

If you follow it in the photo IMG_0074 it goes under the High-Tension leads behind the dizzy to the temperature guage sensor. The PO has been playing with mine too. I don't know why he cut it and rejoined it or maybe the wiring at the sensor was damaged and he replaced it all the way back to there. He also replaced the injector conectors and done a rough job connecting the wiring back together. Im slowing restoring all the front wiring loom. A lot of the wiring around the inlet manifold is hard and brittle where it goes into the terminals. Chas

You are right Captain. I was half replying to a PM, but I couldn't send photo's via the PM system. What I meant was there is no ground to the manifold/engine in the EFI harness. The EFI system doesn't need it because the sensors all go back to the ECU and the ECU has a direct link to the battery running along the firewall just under the the bonnect. Ifollowed the ground in the wiring diagragm. It seems to splaice off, but its hard to locate it in the car itself. Chas PS: Ill have a dig for the o-ring for the fuel pump and post back the size.

Looks like he used the original 280Z grill under the bumper for the lower two runners and build it up with 4 runners from a 240Z grill. I like the neat and tidy result. Chas

I took some photo's of my EFI manifold with the ground wire connecting to the frame for a fellow member. This is the only ground I could find. The EFI harness doesn't have any grounds and seems to rely on this wire for grounding. I think mine is still the original ground wire. Chas

Hi Captain, I changed the o-ring because the house o-ring was leaking and noted the sizes somewhere in all that paperwork I have been collecting over the years. Ill have a look when I get home. Its been two years and no more leaks so the size I used must be close to original. Chas

Im not sure where the mounts are positioned on the 71 bumper. The fiberglass bumper has long slots which give you plenty of room for adjustment. I still had to set a 15mm offset to reach the slots. The original bumpers don't have as much "adjustability" and require more thought when making your brackets. The offset in the bracket will be a lot more if you don't modify the frame. If you do go with the original brackets you will need to remove the 280Z bumper shock supports and the front turn signal mounts. Then you need the 240Z grill and turn signals under the bumper. You won't need the valences, the air-dam replaces them. I was toying with the idea of fitting the 240Z valences with a BRE spoiler, but the front subframe drops down too low and prevents mounting the center valence section. It was tempting to go with the original 240Z mounts and Tamo's work makes it all the more tempting, but for now I opted for the "quick and dirty" reversable approach. Thats why I made my own brackets. I might go the full mod with the ss harrington bumper, but that is a bit further down my to do list. Chas

A good standard upgrade for the clutch is to go with the 2+2 clutch. It has a 240mm clutch disc compared to the 220mm original and can 700plus lbs of torque. The original is somewhere around 550 lbs. You will need the 240mm flywheel though. This way you keep the original light clutch pedal feel. Chas Edit: the turbo model 280ZX had this clutch as well. They are a bolt on upgrade including the flywheel.

I made my own after inquiring about them and getting a quote for shipping them to Europe. Se my thread. I think I still have the paper template somewhere. Planning on making them out of SS304 once I finished with fitting the air-dam. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48611-fitting-240z-bumpers-valences-280z.html Chas

That E-bay unit looks like the P/N 26740-10W00 used in the 720 trucks up to the late 80's. It has the datsun/nissan symbol on the lens where the early model P/N 26740-89902 doesn't seem to have it. Last year you could still get them through Nissan for $40 all be it with some searching. Now the NOS seems to be getting harder to find.

Wow. I have three. Best investment I every made considering I picked the last one up for €25.00.

Im in the same process, but Im going at it from the other direction. Already fitted the fiberglass bumper and now getting ready to fit the Xeon air dam. Mine came with zero instructions. I opted for the 240Z model to close up the gap under the bumper a bit. Its been on hold for acouple of months, but Im planning to start shortly so it will be ready for driving in April. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48611-fitting-240z-bumpers-valences-280z.html Chas

Hi Lenny, We have a Cubify CubeX at work. The price tag is not for the hobbiest. Filiment is expensive at €150/kg and I think you can find better printers for less money these days. We bought it to make test parts for a high shear centrifuge. Mixed feelings about it though. They are always getting cheaper. Cubify's software is not so user friendly and it doesn't seem to have the adjustability like MakerBot and others no doubt. It will be interesting to hear your experiences. Chas

Hi slam, Here is a link to Blues Atlanticz club tech tips. Its a good read and gives you an idea what your up against. Tech Tips The FSM is also has a good description on how to dismantle the from suspension. See link XenonS30 Chas

Lenny, Great news. I just keep dreaming of the possibilities with the Hellfire. Something I have always envied about the guys with modern ECU systems and their chip tuning bla bla. Sucks only having a thermotime resistor to play with. Chas

Spent the last week on the engine bay wiring harness. Cleaning all the terminals and replacing the rubber insulators on the connectors. So far I have made the following for the front harness: 5x Large round rubber (XB39) fits plugs for wiper motor, 2x Headlights, Voltage regulator and a spare connector near AFM. 1x Small round with square hole (XB36) fits A/C vacuum solenoids 3x Small oval shape (XB15) A/C Dryer, L+R front side indicators. 3x Small round with triangle hole (XB2?) A/C Relay P/N:25230-N4205, Front turn signal indicators. One of my fusable link bases has suffered from overheating in the past and melted around the spade terminals. The other block is perfect which will make for a good master to copy. That will be my next challenge. Chas

The rubber washer should fit over the metal cylinder of the rubber bushing. That cylinder will be clamped against the hub by the thick metal washer locking it into position. I think the rubber washer is a dust cover and might be more cosmetic than practicle. Why is the inside chamfered? I can't think of any reason, maybe to compensate for any conical form of the rubber in the bush. Some rubbers have a cone shape and extends to the outer section of the inner cylinder. I hope Im explaining that right. Chas

There are probably a couple of aussies drooling over the Kenmeri 73 C110 skyline coupe that stays in the background. It doesn't come completly in view, just a couple of teasers at 1:40 in front of the black 280zx with gold bonnet and again at 3:24 next to the red 510. When I was a kid, a friends father had one. Can't remember if it was a GT, probably not. Most people think they are ugly, but I still like the coupe. Indeed strange to import a Z to Japan. A bit like importing a Chevy from the UK or Australia back to the US and then leave it there when you go back home. It looks like it might be the best 240Z on the lot. Chas

I had one side that was loose before I started dismantling it. The square nut (aluminium colour in your photo's) was tight, but the welded nut turned. I think the nut was not tight enough before welding. I used a very small dremel drill with a thin cutting disc, about 1/2mm thick and cut between the nut and cap end until I was through the weld. The nut tightened about 1/3 of a turn past the weld. The other side was tight and didn't need dismantling at the weld. Chas

Hi Captain, Great write up and the photo's are clear BTW. This thread is worth moving to the Tech articles section IMO. Its going back 2 1/2 years, but I remember mine was loose. If you look at your first photo in post 7, your threaded end remains suspended in the air. Mine would fall down. It actually had a millimeter or so play in it. By chance I discovered I could turn the welded lock nut, all be it with difficulty. It was welded, but still turned. I think that is what caused the excessive free play. It was then I decided to cut the weld with a small dremel cutting tool, since it couldn't get much worse than it already was. If I couldn't fix it, I would still need a new one. I retensioned it and tested it with a spring gauge according to the FSM specs and tacked the weld with a stick arc welder. Looking at your unit, I wouldn't go that far either. You don't seem to have any problems there. Interesting about those grease port plugs. I can't remember mine sticking out like that. Someone in the past may have changed the originals after damaging them when greasing the rack? Keep the posts coming:cool:. Chas

Thats a big difference in size. I didn't know they changed the size over the years. After seeing that I went out to the garage and checked mine. It looks tight, no gaps, I must of been lucky and got the right one, I guess. Chas

That is an interesting read, by that I mean post #21 in Southbend. The rest of the thread seems to be a rant over his clutch not performing to his expectations. I never knew it was called a marcel spring btw. Ive learnt something today:bulb: Datsun probably increased the size of the marcel spring in the S30 model over the years. I can't remember what the compressed distance was on the 240Z disc. We clamped the two in a bench vice to measure how far they compressed and measured them. The monaro clutch compresed a lot more. Chas

Thats a great link you posted Zed Head. Clearly shows all the inner workings of the clutch assembly. I didn't think the cushioning plate made that much difference to the "height of" engagement. It was more the duration of engagement and not just an on / off engagement like you get with performance clutches which don't have it at all. I beleive the centre point of the diaphragm spring has an effect. If you get the chance to compare the (240Z with the 280Z) model pressure plates, you will see the fulcrum point is a little further towards the outer section. I think Datsun did this in there general move to "refine" the car and slowly move away for that sports car feel the 240Z had. The 280Z pressure plates have the same clamping pressure, but then engage at a higher point and have a softer pedal. The disc in the early 240Z series 1 had little cushioning effect. Going back to the early 1980's. My best friend had one and the clutch engaged low. We had the clutch out several times and if I can remeber correctly, we were surprised at how little cushion effect it had compared to the monaro 350GTS I had, but we were told that was normal. I wonder if putting the 240Z pressure plate in the 280Z will give it that effect. They both have the same clamping pressure.