EuroDat

I think 45psi would improve the spray pattern and atomization. I noticed it as well when I was bench testing my injectors. They worked better at 3bar which is a little less than 45psi. With the higher pressure you will probably reduce the return flow because you are approaching maximum pump pressure and the impeller will start to cavitate and loose efficiency. That will probably give you a little less cooling capacity when your not flushing as much fuel across the rail. Would be fun to have a system that gave your the possiblity to play with some settings and experiment. Chas

Not sure what went wrong there, but its in the "Tech tips & How to" section of the forum. You can find it on the second page under the title "Datsun Paint Codes 1969 - 1983. Maybe your body shop can cross reference the codes? Here is the link again. Maybe it works this time. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/43248-datsun-paint-codes-1969-1983-a.html Chas

Blue posted this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/techhttp://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/18449-280z-fuel-pressure-regulator.html-pubs-howto/43248-datsun-paint-codes-1969-1983-a.html on colour codes. The Ditzler p/n might help. Chas

There is a photo in the second post in this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/18449-280z-fuel-pressure-regulator.html showing the FPR with the vacuum hose attached in the centre of the photo. Chas

You will not get 36psi with the vacuum line connected to the FPR. When the engine is running at WOT and under heavy load it would get 36psi for short periods, but thats when the manifold vacuum is very low. To check the true fuel pressure, you can remove the vacuum line to the FPR, then the pressure should increase to 36psi. If you run it for long periods with the vacuum line disconnected it will run rich because the ECU won't compensate for that. The system is simple and the ECU opens the injectors based a 36psi pressure difference accross the tip of the injector. The FPR simply varies fuel pressure according to manifold vacuum and maintaining 36psi pressure difference between fuel rail and inlet manifold. Chas

Love the R&D. 150% is a tough test. Chas

His secret to cheap shipping is most probably to send it in a flat bubble envolope. If he can keep it under 1-1/4" thick, he can send it as a letter or printed matter. That way he dodges the custom declaration procedures and can reduce the shipping costs. Once its thicker than 1-1/4" it goes up to about $20 to $25 in postage alone. They look good, wonder how good they fit? Chas

Ive seen people fighting with pullers and getting frustrated trying to get the spigot bearing out. I use a round steel rod and grease to "punch" the spigot bearing out. Fill the hole with grease and use a round rod that fits inside the bearing. Its important to get it fitting snuggly to stop the grease escaping to easily. If its too loose, tape the rod with electrical insulation tape to increase the diameter. You could also use a long bolt and grind the hex head round until it fitted. Push the rod into the grease and give the rod firm hits with a hammer. That forces the grease behind the bearing and pushes it out. You might need to repack the grease and repeat the process. Once its out, clean the grease off and fit new spigot bearing. Chas PS: Yet another zombie thread. Its been sleeping since 2005 and the numbers of posts have doubled it the last 2 days.

I think a combination of the 280ZX cooling fan and a sort of heat sink on the fuel manifold piping. Something like you see on nitrogen or oxygen tank heat exchangers, but then to disipate heat rather than absorb it. Anything that will disipate heat and increase the efficiency of the fan will help. That and the auto priming function on superlen's digital ECU;) Chas.

You could try a cooling fan from the 280ZX models. I have seen a 280Z fitted with one and the owner was happy with the results. Where I work we use Armaflex on all our steam lines. Its nine mm thick which could be a little thick and bulky looking. If you grab the insulation, it is marginally warmer than room temp and that is with steam at 150degC. Its easy to cut with a stanely knife and you can glue it with contact cement. http://www.armacell.com/www/armacell/ACwwwAttach.nsf/ansFiles/Armacell_UK&ROI_Product_Catalogue_Digital2013.pdf/$file/Armacell_UK&ROI_Product_Catalogue_Digital2013.pdf#page51 Maybe your local heating and AC specialist has something similar. Chas

Hi Steve, The 9 SMD LEDs came in today. I tried one, but its too long by about a millimeter:(. Don't want to force it, but I could see it pushing the bulb looking through the clear lens I made a while back. I might make a longer lens when I get the rubber insulators done. Chas

Looking at your post #60. The first photo of the cylinder and piston top show hone marks or should I say manual sanding of some sort on the cylinder wall. This engine has defenitly been pulled down before and it lokoks more like a shoddy job to try and get it going. If its already oversized, the pistons are generally stamped on the top. Its hard to see with all the carbon deposits, but the is a couple reasonably clean and I can't see anything on them. Chas

Thats quiet a jump in compression. Looks like it could be rings. The L-series engines are dam tough for a late sixties, seventies engine and generally go a long time before giving too much trouble. You could very well be suprised and find the bores in good shape and the rings are stuck from sitting so long. Honing or going oversize depends on a number of things. How much lip it has on the top of the bore and the condition of the pistons could leave you with no other option than going oversize, but its been a really long time since I had one apart. If you are taking the head off, take some photo's. A photo can say a thousand words... I would also wedge the timing chain so the tensioner stays put and the chain doesn't slip a tooth. Nice suprise if you decide to remount the head. You never know, it could be something fixable without dismantling too much. Goodluck and looking forward to the photo's Chas

Hi Guys, Did some testing on the car today. Fitted some of the B1, B2, F3, F4, F5 and F6. They clamped up well and look clean and straight. They dont want to be any tighter because that will disvorm the brackets that hold them in place. Not easy getting decent photo's under the car. Only the F6 is not up to scratch. Its too tight and just doesn't look right. Im not happy with it so Ill make a new mould for a slightly smaller version. The F6 was the only one I didnt have any kind of good example to go with and it ended up being 1mm too thick. Doesn't sound like much, but it makes the rubber bulge out the sides. I took some before and after photo's. You can see whats left of the F4 and one of the F6's in the photo's. Photo index: DSC-1818 One of the original F6 DSC-1819 Original F4 DSC-1820 New F5 just in front of sway bar DSC-1821 New B2 on fire wall brake lines DSC-1822 Whats left of F4 and one of the F6. DSC-1823 is the best F5 from the originals. Ill try to get the new mould done this week and make some new F6's next week. Stay tuned. Chas

I don't know much about them. I have seen them on a threw cars. They were a common replacement for worn out flat top HMB-46W, the so called emmision carbs, on the later 240Z (series IV from aug 72) and the 260Z to get them through smog inspections. They are not an improvement when compared to a set of "good functioning" flat top or round top SU's. You will no doubt here someone say something like "my car performs much better now I have the DGV's" but remember one thing that they often forget to mention. They are comparing them with a worn, poorly functioning set of SU's. If you have SU's, then I would spend the money on them and forget the webers. Chas

I wouldn't give up on the L24 so quickly. There can be quiet a few things that can effect a compression test. Your figures: 75 75 80 150 145 78. Have you tried oil down the spark plugs? If its rings, a threw squirts of oil will bring the compression up a lot. You could also have some dirty vavles from staning in the open position for years. A leak down test will tell you where its leaking. It might be worth the effort to start and run and maybe a seaform treatment. If its stuffed what do you have to loose, but the time you spend on it. Chas

Your problem is not unusual for the 280Z. Fuel pressure loss is a common cause of hesitation shortly after start up. If you install a new FPR, I still recommend fitting a pressure guage to check the pressure and the leak down rate when its not running. To find leaks fit the pressure guage betwwen the filter and fuel rail, but leave enough room between the filter and guage so you can clamp the hose shut. This way you can shut the line back to the pump, if it stpos loosing pressure, its the pump or pump check vavle. Otherwise the leak is in the fuel rail hoses, FPR, injectors or cold start injector. Like Fastwomen said, low pressure allows vapour to form in the fuel system and it takes time to remove. There are ways to help reduce this problem, some people have installed a push button switch which activates the fuel pump to prime the fuel system before starting and I have seen a injector cooling fan from the 280ZX fitted to a 280Z. Check the heat shield under the inlet manifold is fitted and complete. That can help deflect heat. Cracks in the FPR are not good and poor leaking vacuum lines wont help your situation either. If the FPR doesn't have the right (enough) vacuum it will provide too much pressure and the ECU can not compensate for this. The engine will run rich, except under full throttle conditions. Making sure it doesn't leak down too quickly is your first priority. Maintaining pressure will help a lot. BTW, My system holds pressure for a long time and slowly drops to about 10psi over about 4 weeks. It took me a lot of searching to get it that far. An old hard o-ring in the fuel pump was the last thing I found in my system causing pressure loss. Chas

Hi Christopher, I would be more inclined to do more trsting than replacing. That way you know you identify the problem then fix. If you change something, itmight improve the situation indirectly and you think you fix it, but it comes back again later. A simple pressure gauge (0 tp 50psi) in the line after the fuel filter is a great tool to test fuel pressure. Save you the cost of a new FPR. You can also check if the FPR is holding pressure and giving you the right pressure. Static pressure should be 36psi, but that will drop when the inlet manifold has vacuum. You can do a lot of testing in the manual. Do you have a copy of the FSM and thr fuel injection supplement (bible)? You can downlosd then here XenonS30 Chas

Regarding the headers. Always quote the head you are using to the supplier. That way the supplier knows the type of ports you have and can sell you the header with the correct mating flange. You can find the head type cast between nr 1 and 2 spark plugs. Chas

The early Zeds had the engine number stamped into the identificationplate on the car. That way you have the chassis number HSL30-....... and engine number for that vehicle. The 240Z clutch will fit the L28 no problems. It only becomes a problem when you start mixing the parts. Both pressure plates will bolt up to the flywheel, but they are different heights. This is compensated by a different length throwout bearing collar. They are both 550lb pressure plates, just the 280z is flatter in appearence. If you can pick up a L28 with the 5sp, would be a nice swap. Chas

You can drop the L28 in the 240Z with little trouble. One thing you should note is the manifolds could be different. Depends on which year the 280Z was. Early 280's had the N42 head and the later had the N47. The 280Z engine blocks are all N42. In the N47 the exhaust ports are round and fitted with emmision liners. You will need a header to suit or the L28 exhaust manifold to match the head. If you plan on rebuilding the L24, I would just use the standard L28 exhaust manifold for the time being. Is the L24 a matching numbers engine? If it is, you should at least keep it for possible resale. It will add value to the car even if its not installed. You have not mentioned it, but just in case. If you are planning to use the L28 clutch, you will need the throwout bearing assembly for that pressure plate. Often left in the transmission. Your bearing collar will be to short and stuff up the clutch fork geomentry and you won't fix it with a longer push rod in the slave cylinder. The fork will probably hit the opening in the transmission housing before the clucth disengages. You don't want to find that out once everything in back in the car and all running ready for a test drive. Chas

Hi Bob, Im still have to make the last moulds for the small (single) fuel line insulators 1/4" & 5/16" and I want to check how all these fit on my Z. Cured the first batch today so I might have time tomorrow to fit them and take some photo's. I having a bit of trouble trying to figure out how many are needed on the differeny model 280Z's They changed the lines around the tank area in August 1976. Mine is a 77 so I know what needed for the 77. The parts manual is not very clear, so it will require some input from pre aug 76 owners. I made some quick sketches to give people an overview of what goes where and how many are required. Chas

I just remembered the Zhome website from Carl Beck has a great Colour Gallary. 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery Its a good overview of all the US Z colours. Chas

Yep, We like photo's. I use the playboy reading;) The Color code 216 is called Polar White. That is the original (grubby, after years of service) colour in the engine bay. Looks like they painted it Light Blue Metalic 305. There is also a Sky Blue 510 Non Metalic that looks similar, but its hard to tell with photo's. It lloks great on the photo's Chas

For me its been a pretty rocky 2013/2014. We lost a close friend after a long illness between christmas and new year. Certainly brings things into prospective. My goals for 2014 are: 1. Pay more attention and consideration to the family and friends around me. 2. Less stress. Leave my work at work. 3. Just enjoy life in general, with my Zed of course. 4. Loose some weight and get out on my mountain bike more often A happy and enjoyable new year to all club members.