EuroDat

Yep, Darrel is spot on. Looks just like mine. Chas

I know what you mean. I have a garage full of that kind of stuff. Generally find it a day or two after I ordered a box of what ever it is. Its those moments when you think; Ill put that up there so I can find it next time and WTF..... That box should be a lifetime supply, if you can find it again when the bulb blows;) Steve, Your LED is on steroids. I ordered the 5 SMD version because I thought the 9 wouldnt fit. The 9 SMD is almost double the light. The 5 is 29mm so the 9 must be at least 5mm longer. It must be a tight fit under the lens cap? Chas

I searched for LED BA9s and found a couple here in the UK with the same lamp and dimmensions. The BA9s has a 9mm body. The locating pin is straight and measures 11mm across. Total length is 29mm which is a little longer then the one Im using now. Its 26mm. I ordered one set and Ill see how it goes. Should be here between christmas and new year. Chas

Found these on ebay 5LED White Car bulb 1156 BA9S SMD FREE SHIPPING | eBay They are multi LED, using 5 SMD's, so they should give a better light spread. Ill order a set and see how they turn out. Chas

I wonder how mush light the LEDs produced. Its hard to compare them to a normal bulb because they are more directional. The 32* would give a powerful narrow beam forward where the 90* has a wide angle and the light would be more dispersed and less powerfull. I made some lenses for the inspection light, but shipping makes it so expensive to send and its 3mm to high fall under a letter. Im now playing with a 3mm shorter version, but that might run into trouble with the larger bulbs. I might order a couple LEDs (32 & 90) and see how they work. Chas

I googled the number and found this site List of automotive light bulb types - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. I think the my docket is wrong, so I checked mine in the car. Its a BA9s 12V 8W which is the miniture bayonet. Found this site for the LED's: BA9s LED Bulb - 4 LED | BA9s and BA7s LED Bulbs | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs The BA9S-W4-90-12V looks like it might come close to what you want and they only cost $3. Chas

I changed mine and the new one is just as bright as the old one or so little difference I have not noticed it. Im now using a R10W - BA15s 10 watts. Thats what is on the docket. Chas

Hi Lenny, What you are doing certainly has WOW effect. All the option are better than what I have now, but if I had a choice I would prefer 3a with yellow highlight than "compile" or "send" The ECU should update the flash in one go. This is like releasing the Zed from the dark ages without giving it a complete brain transplant, by that I mean installing a Megasquirt system. Great work your doing. Chas

The FPR is the "wrong" type for your car, but that doesn't mean it will not work. The extra inlet just needs to be plugged properly. The 5/16" (or 8mm) bolt can leak and cause a fire and your car wont survive. IMO I would start from scratch and do all the FSM/Bibble checks again. That way you know were your at, you might just find something the mechanic missed and you will have a much better understanding of how it all works. BTW That plugged inlet is screaming for a pressure gauge so you can check your fuel pressureLOL Chas

Congrats starting the engine. At least you know what you have before you start your rebuild. Now you'll be able to sign up as a mechanic for Bathurst next year. Mery (not too hot) christmas and good luck restoring in 2014. Chas

I use a little amount of red rubber grease (vegetable based grease) for the threads. Since then I have not had problems removing brake lines. Mineral grease doesn't mix well with brake fluid and is bad for the rubber. The red grease is also use on all the rubber compounds in the brake system. I have'nt used brake fluid to lube the threads before. DOT 3 Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it will absorb water. If you use it on the threads, won't it attract water and speed up corrosion in the fitting? Chas

Don't know about the lawnmover cable. It might be easier to take a walk around the pick and pull and find something similar to the Z. The cables often give up because the heater valve is seizing up and the high resistance eventually destroys the mechanical linkage. The heater valve doesn't look like it will last too much longer. If you choose to stay with the Z heater, you can still find NOS units or after market units for the 240Z and the 280ZX on ebay and I think MSA sell them too. The 280Z valve is hard to find these days. While the heater core is out, you can reverse flush it with a garden hose. If its really blocked, you might need to get it professionally cleaned. The cores hard NLA, so if you need a new core, your only option left might just be the Civic swap. Chas Chas

I found a flywheel from a 2+2. The standard flywheel wouldn't fit for several reasons. Main differences are: -The disc contact surface diameter is too small 225mm instead of 240mm. The inside contact surface diameters begin the same. -The 225mm pressure plate wont bolt up because the dowel pins are in the wrong place and the 240mm pressure plate has 9 bolts holding it down in 3 sets of 3. The 225mm pressure plate has 6 bolts in 3 sets of 2. -The 225mm flywheel also has holes just outside the 225mm diameter, but still inside the 240mm diameter. They are for balancing. The flywheels are the same weight before I had mine lightened. Edit: The throw out bearing collar is the same as my 280z collar, but it is different for the 240z. Clutch fork are all the same except for the early 240Z with the adjustable slave cylinder rod and return spring tab. Chas

Im using a 280ZX clutch in mine. It just happened to be available with the close ratio gearbox. Its a 240mm clutch used in the 2+2 instead of the standard 220mm. Really like the feel of it.

A little more information/history would help. Like; Has it been sitting in a barn for 14 years. Do you have any experience with old cars? Etc. To get any kind of response from an engine, you will need Spark, Fuel/air and compression. Basic things to start with are: 1. Does it have spark? Pull a spark plug and check it for spark while someone turns it over. 2. If it has spark. Spray starter fluid (Aerostart) down the air cleaner while someone tries to start it. If it fires, you have a fuel/carb problem. If it has been sitting a long time, it could have a lot of junk and old fuel in the fuel system. The tank and fuel lines will need cleaning. The filter should be replaced. The carburetors will need attention too. Chas

I have heard of some people removing the dowel to adjust the valve timing. One guy in our club here in The Netherlands did that, but he had access to a dyno and spent a lot of time fiddling with the engine. Its not my speciallity, but it doesnt look right to me. Maybe the PO did something along this line to correct chain stretch and play with the timing? Chas

Might be a good idea to put the model and build date in your signature. I just noticed your first post again "getting the 78 running". The 78 has the FPR with one inlet (N47). If one is blocked??? That must be the return line or the vacuum line. Either way its getting to much fuel pressure and that will make it run rich. The fuel injector is in simple words an on/off valve. The size (in the process industry we call it the Cv value) of the injector is based on the pressure drop across the tip. Google "Cv pressure drop" or "Cv values" in metric its called Kvs and wikki will give you a good read on the relationship between flow and pressure. The FPR maintains the pressure drop across the fuel injector at 36psi. The ECU does all its calculations based on this and if its out of spec, it will effect everything the ECU does. BTW: The two inlet version (N42) was used upto juli 77. In August 77 they they changed over to the fuel rail in your model. Chas

Might be a good idea to put the model and build date in your signature. The 78 has the FPR with one inlet (N47). If one is blocked??? That must be the return line or the vacuum line. Either way its getting to much fuel pressure and that will make it run rich. The fuel injector is in simple words an on/off valve. The size (in the process industry we call it the Cv value) of the injector is based on the pressure drop across the tip. Google "Cv pressure drop" or "Cv values" in metric its called Kvs and wikki will give you a good read on the relationship between flow and pressure. The FPR maintains the pressure drop across the fuel injector at 36psi. The ECU does all its calculations based on this and if its out of spec, it will effect everything the ECU does. BTW: The two inlet version (N42) was used upto juli 77. In August 77 they they changed over to the fuel rail in your model. Chas

Can you take some photo's of the fuel rail and that kind of stuff. You mention one side of the FPR is blocked off. Maybe there are other things wrong as well and a photo can say a thousand words.

Nice work:love: I did a similar job on my 280Z taillights when I fitted my ambers lenses. Didn't think of painting the inside though. Thats a good tip. I couldn't find the original sealer and ended up using white "paintable" sealer, but it seems to be vunerable to water. I was afraid the silicone would be a one way ticket and never come apart. The reason was my lack of faith in my homemade lenses, but they are holding up fine. Chas

Is your mechanic using the FSM and the EFI supplement? He would have also done better testing the fuel pressure after the FPR to see if it was working at 36psi. He "cleaned the AFM" but did he do the tests in the FSM? It sounds like he is using his knowledge of other EFI systems to work on this one, but the Datsun system is a early system and you need to take that into account. Here is a link to the manuals XenonS30 Chas

Chris, Looks great. should do the trick nicely. when I read he had 100 photo's curiosity got the better of me:bunny: Chas

Pitty you have to sell. Reading what you have done so far, you are giving it away. Goodluck. Im afraid thats the way it goes. Like they say: The cheapest way to get a fully restored Datsun is to buy someone elses project. For 20k after they spent 30k on it. Over her it would be gone in a flash, but then it would never go so cheap. Here is one to compare, but its far from a daily driver. Datsun 240Z 1973 Benzine - Occasion te koop op AutoWereld.nl Just looking at the price and the photos is enough to see what I mean. Chas

Pitty you have to sell. Reading what you have done so far, you are giving it away. Goodluck. Im afraid thats the way it goes. Like they say: The cheapest way to get a fully restored Datsun is to buy someone elses project. For 20k after they spent 30k on it. Over her it would be gone in a flash, but then it would never go so cheap. Here is one to compare, but its far from a daily driver. Datsun 240Z 1973 Benzine - Occasion te koop op AutoWereld.nl Chas

Thats indeed a rare find. There wasn't many of them around to start with. Does the face from the later units fit?