EuroDat

I had the same problem. The FSM refers to the compression rod bolts. I could torque them down to spec with no problems, but the two bolts that hold the ball joint to the LCA can't be torque to 61-71Nm (45-50ft-lb). Mine didn't survive it anyway. There was an old thread on our club site here (in dutch) about this problem and the conclusion (after consulting Nissan) was to torque these two bolts to the Nissan grade 7 spec. instead of the grade 9 like the two compression rod bolts. The grade 7 spec is 25-35Nm (18-25ft-lb). That worked for me after fitting new (parts car) bolts. Chas

Im going from memory, its about 2 years ago since mine was in pieces. You are probably not turning the gear selector enough to clear the selector forks. Once you remove the reverse selector plug and stopper pin, you should be able to turn it a lot further to the left (anti-clockwise looking from the rear). It has to be in neutral. Then you should clear the selectors. After that its just like Leon said, a bit of tapping and pulling this way and that and it should come off. Chas

Chris, Now I know where you got that photo. At least that Z had some use before someone gives it a decent burial? Chas

Great work. It will be a gem when your finished. Your pace hasn't slow at all. Amazing. I like the bumperless look too.

Thats a Great write up and good clear photo's. Why done you copy the last post into a tech article?:bulb: It would make a good "how to" for others and here it would slowly be lost in the jungle:ermm: Forum home - Products and services - Technical articles. Chas

You could try a PM too nix240z. He has been making all kinds off rubber parts for his Zed and also sells to members. He makes the hatch lock seal. Don't know about the bumper side anchor mounting. The stuff he makes looks great, high quality. See Post #26 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/garage-hobbyist/49264-240z-fuel-brake-line-insulator-sets-steering-rack-expansion-reservoir.html Chas

I thought it was installed as a safety precaution. If the rack mounts wear and the rack can rotate downward during hard turning or car standing still which requires extra force to turn, you risk locking the steering when the uni-joint jams up against the cross member. If it is installed to stop it twisting. Why do it for one direction only. Doesn't seem logical.... Don't know when they started installing it, or if there was a recall action for the early models??? Chas

Hi Blue, Thanks for the input. I found that mistake a while ago, but still having trouble trying to determine the start of the N47. I've seen March 77 through to August 77. My engine has the N47 and it from 05/77. I am pretty sure its original because I had a factory recall sticker in 1979 with the engine serial number written on it. Chas L-Engine Timeline Rev4.pdf

That turned out to be a neat repair when you consider how tiny and fiddly it is to work on. The Laser does a good job.

I replaced mine after removing the sway bar from the car, because I wanted to paint it first. You can do it on the car, but first disconnect it from the lower control arms and them replace the frame mount rubbers. Don't tighten the bolts until its back level on the ground or on car ramps. Otherwise the rubbers will be twisted and under tension with normal ride height. That will end up tearing them apart. Are you using original type bushes or going to PU bushing kit? Here is a link that might help http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/swaybar/index.html If your using PU bushes. A lot of people have trouble fitting the PU rubber ends because they find the bolts supplied are too short. The quick solution is to buy longer 5/16" bolts. I used the original bolts and used a block of wood wedged between the frame and the top of the bolt. Then used a jack to push the lower cotrol arm up and compress the PU bushes enough to fit the nut. When it was finished the bolts were just the right length. Chas

Just out of curiosity, Your using the Xeon 280Z airdam? Im wondering what the "gap" distance between bonnet and top of the airdam is. In your last photo, it looks like its a lot less than the standard valance panel. It should be less because its also replacing the small grille under the original bumper. Thanks Chas

I thought they looked familiar. They really set it off. Love the last photo with the autumn colours. Hr369 tip is a good one. The 240z and 260Z tower insulators will lower it about an inch. If you cut springs, it will harden the ride because your shortening the spring length. Chas

Any Nitrile butadiene rubber (NBR or Hydrogenated NBR) will do the job and last a long time too. Latex is a natural rubber and will not last long in the BCDD. If you can find some gloves made of NBR, that would be the way to go. Natural rubber can be blended with polymers to create different sorts of Nitrile rubber like Europrene and Neoprene among other brand names. Chas

Hi Lenny, Its really impressive work your doing and the GUI looks clean and easy to use:D Chas

Can you see any movement of the clutch fork when someone else pushes the clutch pedal in? If there is no air, fluid is not compressable, so it has to move something. It could still have air. The slave should have about 35mm of travel. I would also check the clucth pedal free travel and the return spring is fitted and working correctly. The hard to engage gears issue could be a clutch plate sticking to the flywheel. If the slave does push the clutch fork in, try to push the car backwards and forwards with it in gear and the clutch in. If it turns the engine then thats where your problem is. Sometimes rocking the car back and forwards, in gear and clutch in can release it. Chas

those seats are a big improvement on the old white one you had in the first posts. Look neat and clean and a bargin too:cool: The 82 had the close ratio gearbox. First will be a lot higher than the T5 your running now. First gear is 3.06 compared to 3.5 in the T5 and 5th are almost the same at 0.75 and 0.78 in the T5. Im using an late 81 ZX 71B tranny and clutch with the R200 diff out of the same car. That compensates a bit for the hight first gear. The car is not a daily driver and not used for long highway trips. I like the combo. Do you know the ratio in the LSD? The LSD is not standard, so the centre is most probably out of the 300ZX. Chas

I use a lightened flywheel out of the 280ZX with a new clutch and pressure plate. It feels the same, maybe a little harder, but it has a lot more grip. The clutch is 240mm instead of 225mm! Which is about 40% more grip than the original. I was thinking of going to a stage one, but I like the feel of the original, so I opted for that route and I am happy with the results. Chas

If you have changed the slave and master and they are the same as the other, its most probably different pressure plates causing the hard clutch pedal. Sometimes the throw out bearing collar can seize up on the guide when the grease dries out. You can easily check that by checking the clutch fork for free play. You might need to take the sale off to check for movement. If it moves freely its not the problem. Check the clutch pedal pivot points moving freely. Chas

The right one is not after market. Its for a datsun roadster part nr 11220-A3500 Here are two photos of them both. The left photo, mount with 4 bolt holes is for the roadster and the right with 2 bolt holes is for the my 280Z. Chas

I think I would start all over and begin with adjusting the pedal travel, make sure hats right then move to the slave cylinder. Like Blue said, if the master cylinder is not returning completly, it could be all your troubles there. Then check the free travel on the slave push rod and make a new one or use the original if its the better length. Just make sure you have between 5 to 10mm to allow for clutch plate wear. Chas

When you depressurize the fuel system, be carefull if you remove a hose to do it. The system can get up to 36psi. Not saying it will have that much pressure, but what pressure is in the system will spray all over the place and if you are unlucky, in your face and eyes. I have heard of some people activate the cold start injector with a 9 volt battery to release the pressure. I like living dangeroisly and just loosened the hose clamp on the filter, covered the hose with a old towel and pulled it off the filter. One other tip, release the fuel filler cap to make sure the tank has no pressure in it. Chas

My Z is in the garage since two weeks. Already started on my winter project list. Now in the process of making and replacing all the fuel line rubbers and thinking of removing the dash cap and restoring the dash. The roads here are made of ZOAB which is a very porous asphalt. Great for preventing spray in wet weather, but very vunerable to damage when below zero and freezing. The solution is: plenty and I mean plenty of salt. zoab asfalt - Google Search

I don't thick that will fix your problem. It might help a bit, but you could take all the free play out of the slave cylinder. That would mean the throw out bearing is pushing constantly against the pressure plate and it could cause it to slip. There must be something wrong with the diameter ratio master/slave being slave bore too big maybe. To make it adjustable, all you need is a long 5/16" bolt, a cap nut (thread tapped through it) and drill a hole in your fork. Chas

What is the specs for the wheels? They fit well in the photo. Starting to take shape now. Nice:D

IPO is just a typing error. Zed meant PO (previous owner). The dowel is a slight press fit in the cam and came be removed. Some say its only needed to locate the cam, and once the cam gear is tightened to specifications, the dowel is no longer needed. I would have it replaced. Dont want to hit a couple of pistons with the valves through bad valve timing. I agree with Zed Head on buying another engine. Reading what the PO has done so far is scary and now knowing he has also had the head off. This engine could turn into one of those angry dogs, no matter how much time and care you put into it, it just keeps bighting you. Chas