EuroDat

I don't thick that will fix your problem. It might help a bit, but you could take all the free play out of the slave cylinder. That would mean the throw out bearing is pushing constantly against the pressure plate and it could cause it to slip. There must be something wrong with the diameter ratio master/slave being slave bore too big maybe. To make it adjustable, all you need is a long 5/16" bolt, a cap nut (thread tapped through it) and drill a hole in your fork. Chas

What is the specs for the wheels? They fit well in the photo. Starting to take shape now. Nice:D

IPO is just a typing error. Zed meant PO (previous owner). The dowel is a slight press fit in the cam and came be removed. Some say its only needed to locate the cam, and once the cam gear is tightened to specifications, the dowel is no longer needed. I would have it replaced. Dont want to hit a couple of pistons with the valves through bad valve timing. I agree with Zed Head on buying another engine. Reading what the PO has done so far is scary and now knowing he has also had the head off. This engine could turn into one of those angry dogs, no matter how much time and care you put into it, it just keeps bighting you. Chas

I quickly checked mine since its now on stands in the garage while Im replacing fuel line insulators. The slave cylinder has its own internal spring which pushes it back out when you let it go. I can push the slave cylinder push rod in and measured it with a tape measure how far it came back out. It was 7 - 8mm. The stroke was about 33 - 34mm. If your getting more than 1/2" free travel that could be some of the problem, but it wont make up the 35mm stroke the manual states. Thats about 5mm plus the 12.5 (1/2") travel you have comes to about 18mm which is about half what it should be. Is the clutch pedal free travel adjusted according to the manual specs? And is the system free of air? Chas

Whats it worth? What is your hobby worth to you and your son. Thats all that matters in the end. If your planning on restoring it for eventual resell with profit later, thats just not going to happen. Looks like the PO has been tinkering with it like Carl said. Colour change and blacked out under the hood and I would be thinking more in the relms of 139k on the clock, but what do you expect for a 40 year old car. Still a great start to an enjoyable project. I wont say what I think its worth. My estimate is geographically biased. Zeds are all but an extinct species over here. Chas

Hardway had similar problems with a replacement master and slave cylinder for his 240Z. It was the adjustable type. The master cylinder rod was clearly a lot shorter than the original. He took a photo to show the difference. See post #107 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/47863-lime-green-machine-restoration-thread-1972-240z-2.html Chas

One easy test you can do. You don't even have to have the car on stands. Reach under and push the clutch fork into the slave cylinder. You should be able to push it in about 10mm. This is not the clutch pedal free travel explained in the manual. This is the extra travel needed for clutch plate wear. You will probably find it has no play and the pressure plate is partially engaged. I would also check the clutch pedal adjustment while your at it. Make sure the return spring pulls the pedal back to the stop and the pedal has 10 to 15mm free travel. Chas

You wont need a fork from a240Z. The 240 and 280Z clutch forks are the same dimensionally except the early 240Z has an extra eye on the outer end for the return spring and the 280Z doesn't have a hole for the pushrod to go through. That version also has the adjustable push rod. I had a similar problem with the slave cylinder I replaced a year ago. The push rod was too short. I removed the two bolts holding the slave cylinder and pushed it towards the clutch until it bottomed out. I measured the distance between the holes in the slave cylinder and the threads in the bell housing. Then it was simply a case of measuring the rod and adding the difference. I made it 10mm shorter to allow for clutch wear which would push the slave cylinder back. Chas

"NOS Rare" That thing is so rare he only has a photo of a clipping out of the datsun parts catalogLOL For that price I would at least expect a photo of the real thing. I have followed him on E-bay for some time. Some things are cheap and others not so. In the end your the buyer and its your full right to ignore it and look somewhere else. Chas

Sometimes good to go back to your first post and read it again. Your description in the first section makes me think its too lean, but your plugs are sooting up. Thinking out of the box. Could it be a blocked cat. or other part of the exhaust? I had that with an old Escort before I restored it. The muffler colapsed internally and caused similar problems. It doesn't explain the strange fuel pressure behavior, but you might have more than one problem haunting you. Chas

Do the fuel return line check that Zed Head mentioned. If the FPR checks out OK then I would be looking at the tank. It could be a lot of dirt and rust floating around in the tank and clinging to the fuel pick-up stainer and eventually blocking it enough to reduce the pressure. Your tank might be the cause of it all. Chas

I did the same. Replaced the front bumper with a 240Z bumper and a 240Z Xeon pu air dam. If you keep the 280Z valences you will have a large gap under the bumper because the 280Z bumper is about 5cm thicker. I have a 240Z bumper for the rear, but I also like the de-bumpered look on the rear. I don't think you need to notch the cylinders on a L28. Thats done when you use the bigger L28 inlet valves on a L24 or L26 or so I thought, but it wont be the first time Im wrong. As for 240Z or 280Z and best "investment". Don't expect to get anywhere near what you put into it when you eventually sell it. It just won't happen. I wanted a S30 and found this one after more than two years searching. Im very happy with it and in the end thats all that count. Whatever your choice. Enjoy the "ride" Chas

Quick status report. I made an inventry of all the insulators on my 77 Z and checked it against the Nissan E-FAST parts manual.(same as Datsun 280Z Fuel Piping L28E ) The quantity mentioned doesn't add up to what Im getting on my car. For example; I have 7 of the type D/E and the parts manual lists 9 (Pos 10 & 19) And I have 2 of the type F and the manual states 1. I don't think the years use different types, just the quantity is different. Ill make a list of all the different type and quantities needed for my 280Z. Chas

I had a similar problem you are having. My 280Z was hard to start when it stood longer than a day or so. If you follow the instructions from Zed head and siteunseen you can test the different sections of the system to find where its leaking. I found my leak (check valve in pump) by doing these steps. 1: Fit pressure gauge between filter and fuel rail. 2: Run fuel pump until pressure reaches peak. 36psi. (engine not running). 3: Check leak down rate. (psi/minute) 4: Clamp the fuel hose shut. After the pressure guage. (I fitted new hoses and used a G clamp. You can change the hoses when fitting the pressure guage. Old hoses don't like being clamped shut very much). 5: Run the pump for short period to build up pressure. Be carefull not to overpressurise the system. You don't have the FPR to limit maximum pressure. 6: Repeat step 3. If the leak rate remains. The leak is in the pump. If it doesn't loose pressure the leak its further down the system. 7: Remove clamp. Run pump to build up pressure and then clamp to Fuel return line (From FPR back to tank) shut. 8: If it holds pressure, its your FPR. If it still looses pressure, it must be leaking through one or more injectors or the cold start valve. I lifted all the injector with them still connected to the rail. Took some time getting them out, but then you can see if they leak with the pressure test. The cold start valve is easier to remove ( keep hose connected) and test. Goodluck hunting. Chas Edit: If you don't want to clamp the hoses, you can remove hose from downstream pipe and plug it with a 5/16" bolt ( with unthreaded section.) or a piece of round bar will work. Be carefull removing the hose. Fuel WILL spray everywhere even with almost no pressure.

I would do a fuel pressure test. Sounds like the pressure is leaking back to the tank or a leaky injector. What is your year model, you can activate the fuel pump to see if it will "prime" the system and then start the car. I have a 77 model and the pump is activated by the AFM. With the key in ON I can run the pump by pushing the AFM open. Fitting a guage after the fuel filter will also tell you a lot about the condition of the pump and FPR. You will need one that can handle up to 50psi. At idle it will be around 30psi, but can go to 36psi with not manifold vacuum. Chas

What year is the 71B you are planning to use? They don't all have the same ratios. The one most prefer is the later 280ZX n/a. If you go back to the 71B than you should at least buy a bushing kit for the shifter. They dont cost much and if improved mine a LOT. It was like "a stick in the mud" before I did it.

I work in the pharma bio-tech and one thing I have learnt in all the years of contaminations, lost batches and panic reactions. Never narrow your line of thought by focusing on a possible problem that may not even exist. You will end up missing things that can haunt you later. I would dismantle the timing cover and inspect the freeze plug. You can always buy the things you need later and if you buy everything at once you can ask for a discount or at least save on shipping. When your waiting for the parts to come in, you can start cleaning everything and getting ready for re-assembly. Chas

Thats a lot of ahh "fluid" out of the crankcase and its been in a while with the engine running to mix it like that. I agree with Zed Head sounds like you could find more problems than just a heat gasket. I would dismantle the timing cover for sure. Is a good job you are doing it yourself. Once a garage starts on a job like this is can cost heaps to get it finished. Goodluck. Chas

Would a coat of fibreglass work? Im not sure if the fibreglass would bond to this material. What ever you use would need to be light because they probably wont be able to support much weight. If its coated on the inside would not be visible from the outside.

Hi Lenny, The title of this thread threw me a bit. Thought it was something about fuel, but I just spent the last hour reading all the posts and finding it very interesting. Looking forward to seeing it develop into a usable system. I would love to help with testing, but Im really out in the wilderness with my 280Z. I will remain an eager follower. Chas

I went to my local auto parts store and purchased a 1.5mtr length of fuel hose and hose clamps. Then I found a T-piece to suit at the hardware store. Here is an example BRASS BARBED T PIECE 3 WAY FUEL HOSE JOINER FOR COMPRESSED AIR GAS OIL LPG PIPE | eBay I was using it in the car for a week or so to see what was happening. The pressure will get up towards 36 psi when the engine under heavy load (low vacuum) WOT. Chas

Hi club members, Most of my fuel line insulators have seen better days and due for replacement. Mike (nix240z) makes the sets for the 240Z, but they are different from the 280Z and only a few of the insulators are usable:disappoin. I decided to make a set of fuel and brake line insulators for my 280Z. I had all the equipment (degassing tank, vacuum pump and pressure chamber) from making my amber turn signal lenses from the taillights so the extra investment would be my own time and the raw materials. To get a good mould I made the dummies out of aluminium and now getting ready to make the silicone moulds. The insulators will be made of urethane rubber shore 70A and post cured. The insulators will fit the 1977 280Z. I know there is some variations between the years, but I think its only in the brackets and an extra insulator after re-routing of the return line after Aug, 76. If any Club members are interested, I can make extra sets.

I think I would have done a little more diagnostic work before starting to dismantle anything. It could be something other than a head gasket. You can do things like; pressurising the radiator and checking the oil level if it rises (you would have to connect the radiator again), a compression test or even re-torque the head and check if the water loss in the radiator slows. You can do all these things before removing the head and it also gives you more confidence working on the motor. Most of us, including myself, are telling you how to do it, but forgetting to ask why your doing it. Its not your daily driver, so relax take your time. Its better to take a lot longer and do it right than a botched job costing a fortune to reverse the damage. Chas

I think mine are OEM, but not certain of that. They are braided though. I know the Nissan dealer here has to source them from the states. At least the hoses are easy to replace or temporally block off. Heaters can be a problem. They are easily neglected because they are hard to get to. Different story when replacing the heater valve which worries me some. Chas

My Z went in for its 2 yearly roadworthy inspection. I dropped it off at 08:30 and the garage called that it was ready at 10:15am:D. It past not problems and even had a random check from the RDW (Dutch Traffic Authority). Chas