EuroDat

Jim, Thanks for the tip. Ill try to get some jeweler's rouge. I have a buffing wheel somewhere. Just need to find it in the attic amongst all the movers boxes. Chas

My 280Z was due for a roadworthy inspection so I was checking the lights and noticed the front indicators were not very bright. I never paid much attention to them before because I was planning to switch to 240Z lights when the 240z bumper and air dam were fitted. I still have not decided on the type of air dam yet so these turn signals will be around for a while. After dismantling them it was clear why they didn’t shine very bright. 1. The chrome reflector was so badly corroded. The chrome layer was falling of the metal plate and the metal plate was rusted. 2. The lens was covered in red and black over spray from the PO paint job. Considering the effort required I’m impressed with the results and decided to show them here. I didn’t think it rated a technical article so I posted it in the electrical section. Here are some step by step photos of the lenses. I dismantled the lens and cleaned it with paint stripper. The paint stripper from Rustoleum (Green Nr 1) is mild and does not attack the plastic used in the turn signals. I let it work for about 10 minutes and had to repeat it twice to get all the paint off. They clean up really well considering there age. The reflector section was a different story. The chrome layer was past any restoration attempts. I ended up scrapping all the chrome off and sanding the metal back smooth and priming it. I coated it with aluminium tape to substitute for chrome. Doesn’t look all that crash hot on the photos. The reflection shows every imperfection. it would be better in thin polished stainless steel, but I didn’t have the time and these won't be permanent. The orange lenses came up nice after sanding with 240, then 800 and finishing with 1200 grit emery paper and being carefull not to sand all the text away. After sanding I buffed them with 2-cut polish. The stuff used to polished badly faded paint. This is the final result. Chas This post has been promoted to an article

Question 3) If its in the AFM like the 77 model, which I think it is. The easiest way I find is to use a medium sized screwdriver and insert it handle end first via the air cleaner. Turn the key to ON when you do this. You will here the pump start when you push the flap open. Chas

Here is a video tutorial http://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=video%20tutorial%20replacing%20head%20gasket%20datsun&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CD4QFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D6WCSh_6GA0k&ei=A0GFUqnhDK-f7gaQs4GgCQ&usg=AFQjCNEe_sJBasV4XG7OKLxgoJ-dItbVbw&bvm=bv.56343320,d.ZGU I have not watched all 6 parts. He used a static position to video which does'nt give the best view point. He also removed the timing cover and timing chain which is easier but more work. Take your time reading and asking question and you will manage it yourself. Later when you look back on this it will be much more rewarding then just paying someone else to do it. Chas

I second the Thermo time mod. It really improved the divebility of my 77 280Z and it had similar hestitations like your describing. I didnt get it adjusted using a dyno test bank. Simply ran the wiring inside the cabin so I could play with it and kept adjusting it between fuel tank fills. Try to get a balance between power and economy. Them moved the resistor back pemanently in the injector wiring harness. Chas

Follow the red arrow in the photo. Zed Head is correct but its in the Carpartsmanual Read axle & Drive shaft section like cbuczesk said POS#4 Chas

The features and options cracked me up. After telling us its original and well maintained I read in the Features and Options section that this car has: 4 wheel disc brakes 3 point "rear" seat belts Climate control Power steering And a "V" style engine... Gee I wish mine had those optionsLOL: Truely Clueless:facepalm:

That the route I took. Still debating on what to do with the section under the bumper though. Toying with the idea of going over to the 240Z Xeon air dam with the 240Z turn signals. I have the turn signal already so I can go either way. I ended up fitting the trim I mentioned in post #54. The brackets for the bumper are now aluminium, but it will be stainless steel when finished. Its not finished yet, but here are some photos. Im also open for suggestions. Chas

Nice colour, great work. It will look great when its back together. What grill are you planning to use with the 240Z bumper? The original bottom section tends to leave a big gap between it and the bumper due to the 280Z bumper being so big. Chas

A little late, but welcome to the club anyways. Thats truly a nice find you have and it looks in good condition from the photo's. I remember back in the eighties what a Datsun dealer said to my mate when he was complaining about rust in his 240Z floor after a wndow leaking. It goes something like: Listen mate, rust isn't an option, its standard with those cars. My mate just stood there gob smacked and didnt know what to say. What Im trying to say is finding one almost rust free is very hard indeed and something you should cherish. Goodluck and enjoy the ride Chas

Hi David, I read this a couple of hours ago and its been bugging me ever since. My conscience tells me better, but I have to give my 2cents. I find it harsh and not knowing the situation of others could be offensive. You will always get advice from different view pounts. Thats how a community forum works and the comments Ive seen in this thread are not so roughand all trying to get their point of view across. Its up to you to sort through the advice your given and make an educated decision. For an eye opener you should copy your first couple of posts and post them in Hybridz. It would Literally be the roasting of DavidBoren. With this post I will submit myself to the category "not the three or so". So be it. Cheers chas

Ron, Thanks for your valued input on this thread. My 280Z clock worked when I got the car. The PO said he removed it and cleaned and lubed:( it. It worked for about six months then stopped altogether. After reading your posts I think I know why. Chas

Thats what I love about these old Zeds. People think they are old, simple cars, but when you get down to the nitty gritty there are a lot of subtle differences over the years. Nice brain teasers to keep you occupied. Chas

Adam, If you looking for a set of lenses and don't mind repros, you might want to try David at Street lens in Minto, south sydney. His workshop is a bit chaotic the last time I was their, but he makes all kinds of lenses and might just have a mould for the C110 somewhere? He does answer e-mail just takes a couple of days. davidaz@ozemail.com.au Streetlens - clear lenses for your street car Just a thought. Chas

You should do some checking on the E88 head. There are 4 different versions of the E88. Its really had to find accurate information about them on the net and the Nissan parts manual/fishe aint much help either. 1. The first E88 is pretty much identical to the E31 and came out somewhere around june 71 in the series II 240Z. It also had 42.4cc and the 33mm exhaust and 42mm inlet valves. 2. The second (I think series III, october 71 onwards) had minor port runner improvements and still had 42.4cc chambers. 3. This head was modified again with emmision chambers somewhere at the start of the series IV around August 72. This increased the chamber capacity, but I dont have any accurate information on that. 4. The last version got the bigger 35mm exhaust valve and emmision chambers. It came out on the 260Z. The bigger 44mm inlet valve would have to wait till the L28. This head has a larger chamber and was only in the US market. I have seen 47.8cc quoted in a Nissan manual, but Im not sure if that is with the later L26 which had the dished pistons. Maybe someone here has more reliable figures on this head... All these heads are designed for flat top pistons. The last was used on the L26 with flat tops pistons and dished 7.01cc pistons from June 74. If the L28 is running dished pistons, that will add 10.9cc to the chamber and bring the early heads up to the P79 range which had 53.5cc. If anyone sees any mistakes, please feel free to correct me. Chas

Thats not your average day job. Working on the datsun will be a nice relaxing change.

Just read where you found your coupe. Cant believe you found a coupe in Gunnedah of all places. When I did my apprenticeship in the Hunter valley, a school mate got his up at Gunnedah in the local coal mine. Spent quiet a threw weekends with him up there and Tamworth in the eigthies. He actually found a couple of australian rambler hornets in a shed on a farm. Lucky bastard. Goodluck with the restoration, a truly lucky find going by the photos. Chas

Nice ride. I can see why your looking forward to getting back home. What are you doing in the middle east? If you dont mind me asking. Chas

Welcome to the club ati2ud. Ok, Ill ask, whats under the dust cover? Your first Z.... Chas

Welcome to the club and enjoy the friendly chat. Madkaw is just reading your signature like me:classic: Its just oozing hybridz. Wow what havnt you done to itLOL: Chas

One way to check relay contact condition is to use a volt meter across them while they are still in the circuit. You should read battery voltage until the relay activates. If the circuit is complete ie: attached to a fuel pump (in this case), headlights or something to create a load on the circuit it should drop very close to zero volts. Anything higher than that is resistance across the contacts. Im sure other members will have other methods, but I have always found this a handy trouble shooting method. The fuel pump wont work with the ignition just on. It takes more than that. Are you getting a signal to activate the pump? Im not sure how the 78 activates the pump. Oil pressure switch? Something else to look at: If is has not been started for a while, you might consider doing some pre startup work on the engine. Lubricating the cam lobes for example. It would be a shame to damage it just trying to get it started. If you do a search in this forum "starting the beast" there are some good threads on the subject. As to your problem with the headlights/taillights:ermm: gremlins? Thats often the case when you get someone elses problem to fix. God knows what the PO did to it before he gave up and passed it onto you. Like you said, why would he buy it and just park it? Chas

Oops, I was forgetting that:stupid: thats one of the differences in the colour wiring diagrams;) ( refering to post #5)

Looks great. Really neat work. Keep the photos coming Chas

So true. The FSM also has easy to follow drawings of connectors, relays etc and how they are mounted. If your checking the pump you need to open the AFM. I use the handle of a large screwdriver via the air cleaner inlet to hold it open. And a tag on the steering wheel to remind me its in there. Chas

Chris, Im with zKars on this. I would like to know what the dizzy curve really is before changing cams. You can map it with a timing light and plot the curve on graph paper or MS excel along with the one from Walter Moores chart and compare them. It could be something as simple as weak springs in the dizzy advance and if it is not that then you can more on. Chas